Author |
Message |
Doc5339
| Posted on Sunday, September 16, 2001 - 08:42 pm: |
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Bull, that Xtrem Kolors fairing and fender eliminator look great-I have seen the same components at http://www.eurocomponentsusa.com. Has anyone else installed this kit? Do you think it would be possible to install an X1 tank on an M2 in order to install the Xtrem Kolors fairing? I have yet to figure out what to do to give the M2 a sleeker tailection. ANYONE GOT ANY SUGGESTIONS? Thanks in advance. |
Doc5339
| Posted on Thursday, September 20, 2001 - 11:04 pm: |
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NEED HELP: does anyone know of a quick-fix to stop paint peeling around gas-cap edges. I clean/polish the bike regularly and can't believe the paint is peeling in just over one year. The BUELL lettering also seems to be coming-off gradually. |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2001 - 02:55 pm: |
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Does anyone know if the heat from powdercoating will wreck the cam bearings or warp the primary cover? |
Blake
| Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2001 - 05:56 pm: |
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How hot is the bake for powdercoating? |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Wednesday, September 26, 2001 - 07:27 pm: |
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About 500F, I think. I can find out for sure later. |
Eeeeek
| Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2001 - 01:02 am: |
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Question about the Demon Blue Paint. Is it a single stage paint? I'm thinking about painting my TL1000 Demon Blue and need to know what I'm getting myself into. Vik |
Blake
| Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2001 - 02:20 am: |
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Vik: Sport Twin has all the paint info covered. Check it out at http://www.sporttwin.com/paint.html |
Tim
| Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2001 - 10:15 am: |
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Powder coating requires "curing" at 400 F. Cases are powdercoated at factory(silver or black). Don't know about the bearings. |
Bomber
| Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2001 - 11:27 am: |
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EEEEK Pull the bearings outa there, sir . . . . 400 degrees won't harm tha cases (obviously), but is hot enough to change the properties of many bearing materials . . . .why take a chance? BigHairy could, I'm sure, get much more specific |
Eeeeek
| Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2001 - 12:04 pm: |
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Bomber: Come again? I'm talking about painting the plastics on a TL1000R. Vik |
Bomber
| Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2001 - 02:08 pm: |
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oops . . . sorry eek . . . . .that should have been adressed to sportyeric . . . .brain fade after the Gap is my story ;-} |
Ara
| Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2001 - 05:35 pm: |
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I've discovered that the rear fender on my '97 S3 hs cracked at the point where the turn indicator bolts on. Has anybody else had this experience? Will the factory replace it? Russ |
Buellistic
| Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2001 - 06:19 pm: |
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ATT:Ara(RUSS) My tail section has cracked around the tail light! ERIK BUELL noticed where mine cracking at DAYTONA! I told him I knew why mine was cracking and he ask why.I told him when my wife(200lbs+) rides with me (200lbs+) I put Bartel's Performance ALUMINUM STIFFNER BUSHINGS(PN RB4070) to reinforce my isolators and made the mistake of riding too much solo(they make the back end vibrate too much unless I am packing double)therefor the craking problem!!!!!!! My front finder has also has some cracks too. I drill a small hole at the end of a crack to stop it from going further............... In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley |
Boomer
| Posted on Friday, September 28, 2001 - 09:59 am: |
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I observed today that the Buell decals on my '98 S3T have bubbles under them. What's up with that? I would just peal them off but it appears there is a clear coat over them. Any suggestions would be appreciated. |
Ara
| Posted on Saturday, September 29, 2001 - 12:22 pm: |
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Buellistic and others: Thanks for the hints you provided rregarding the cracked fender on my '97 S3. Buell calls that the "license plate holder" and it's part number 60043-97YB and it goes for $17.50. I've ordered one but since there's no telling when it'll be available, I'm going to fix mine so I can continue riding. It had cracked in three places, so I'm going to epoxy the edges of the cracks together and then reinforce with a layer of fibreglass on the inside surface. Thanks again. Boomer: You must be referring to the white BUELL decals on the fuel tank. Mine has bubbles, too. What I understand is that the tank material is not entirely impervious to gasoline fumes which find their way through the tank material and defeat the adhesive on the decals. I'm told that some dealers will get you a good will replacement. Might be worth a try. Russ |
Bigun283
| Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2001 - 01:41 pm: |
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Boomer and Ara I had the same problem with my decals on my 98 S1W tank. I called the shop I bought it from and I'm now getting a new tank for free. They had to call buell first. I also called the buell customer service line and they told me the same thing. Hope this helps |
911buell
| Posted on Saturday, October 20, 2001 - 02:17 am: |
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Tank Decal Question - I have a black 2001 X1 with the factory blue "checkered X1" graphics. I see for 2002 they have went back to the "Buell - American Motorcycles" logo in gray which I much prefer. I also like the orange and white "raised" lettering decals found in the recent past. Anyone have an opinion and/or concerns about fitment on the impact resistent body of the X1? Thanx... Steve |
Buell621
| Posted on Monday, November 05, 2001 - 06:46 pm: |
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Does anyone know of any fairing lowers for the S3T after the airbox has been removed? |
Bigfanof6
| Posted on Sunday, November 11, 2001 - 10:32 pm: |
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I just thought I would throw this in here on the cleaning topic. I noticed my black cylinders were looking pretty shabby, so I purchased some S100 Engine Brightener, sprayed it on, and it works GREAT! I'm not a big fan of S100 products, as I tried it years ago and it dulled everything on the bike. But this engine brightener stuff works nice. Makes anything black look brand new. |
Brentx1
| Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 11:22 pm: |
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I have a question about removing gasoline stains from the black transcase. The dealer did a teardown on my bike 2 months ago, and I just got it back. The problem is that the fuel from the fuel filter leaked onto the cases and covers staining them. Is there a way to remove this, or do I have to make some phone calls? |
Spike
| Posted on Wednesday, November 14, 2001 - 11:27 pm: |
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Well, my bubbled tank decals are really getting annoying. I mentioned it to the service guys at Ray Price, they suggested that I buy new stickers. Are they supposed to take care of this? Do I just need to push them a bit? Should I call Buell customer service? Thanks in advance. Spike 99 Cyclone |
Blake
| Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 02:56 am: |
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Brent: Try contact cleaner, the stuff used to clean circuit boards, electric motors and such. If that won't dissolve the varnish, spot test some carb cleaner on a concealed spot; if it doesn't harm the paint, use it to remove the stain. Spike: The factory has to my knowledge replaced every bubbled tank with a new tank that has stuck-on plastic labels. Your dealer should call Buell Customer Service. Good luck, Blake |
Bomber
| Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 11:35 am: |
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Brent . . . .as a last resort, ,try starting fluid (ether) . . . works prettydarnedwell, and gives you a bit of a buzz, too |
Henrik
| Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 02:24 pm: |
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Brent: some stains on the black wrinkle motors is caused by the paint drying out. S100 has a "motor shine" product, that is supposed to help moisturize the paint and make it nice and shiny black again. I've only tried it to shine up the S2 motor (no paint) and it really does shine up the motor. some say that a shot of WD40 will do the same. Haven't tried. Hope this helps Henrik |
Buellzebub
| Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 02:51 pm: |
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anyone have paint codes for the nuclear blue frames/wheels |
Lsr_Bbs
| Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 03:16 pm: |
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Nuclear Blue...it's not paint, it's powdercoating. From what I've found out it's a propritary formula, and only the guy that does BMC's powdercoating can do it...classic coatings I believe, I've got his contact info somewhere if you really need it. Neil Garretson X0.5 |
Buellzebub
| Posted on Thursday, November 15, 2001 - 03:40 pm: |
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thanx Neil, i don't need it just yet, i am looking at a S1 with the blue frame and wheels [a 98 for 8500 cdn pesos] to replace my wrecked 97 and was just curious. s1 withdrawal sux |
Mikej
| Posted on Friday, November 16, 2001 - 12:27 pm: |
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S2/S3 fairing question: Do the little air vents with the screens over them serve any usefull purpose, do they help airflow or cooling or rider comfort or anything? The bodywork has similar vents on the tailsection, but I don't know if the inlet/outlet look is just a cosmetic theme, or if it's somewhat functional? Does anybody know for certain? |
Bullitt
| Posted on Thursday, November 22, 2001 - 02:57 am: |
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I saw a picture of a guy's bike somwhere on the board - can't remember now where. Ah, sweet Alzheimer's. Anyway, he polished the exhaust header so well that in the picture it looked great. Can anyone tell me how to do this? I think it mentioned steel wool, but can't say for sure. I can't pony up for the ceramic coated one from ASB this time of year, but have plenty of elbow grease. |
Rempss
| Posted on Thursday, November 22, 2001 - 10:26 am: |
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I started with a scotchbright pad & gradually worked through several grades of steel wool. Finished with Mother's polished with a rag. Not only bright like chrome, but smmoth as glass. It will turn golden/wheat soon after, but still has the brighness. It took me about 2 hours off the bike by hand. Jet-Hot was going to do my header for $122.00 including return shipping, if you can live without it for a week or 2 seems like a deal. Jeff |