| Author |
Message |
    
Saszta
| | Posted on Friday, November 03, 2006 - 06:16 pm: | 
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Hi,
in order to start my bike I need to play with the throttle when it's a cold morning start (like 5 degrees celcius). It'll start but stall out if I don't rev it a little (up to about 2500 rpm) and/or pump the throttle for about 30 seconds.
Runs rough too but then I'll release the throttle and let it idle and it'll hold idle but it's not too happy about it. Eventually it warms up after about 3 minutes or so and I can drive off slowly till she really warms up. I fill the tank often so I don't think it's condensation but I'm not sure. It sits outside over night.
Anyone else experience this?
Steve. |
Sparky
| | Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 02:24 am: |
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Is your bike stock or race parts equipped? The race ECM and muffler generally do not run as civilized and smooth as the stock bike.
Is the engine oil viscosity correct for the colder temperatures? A lighter weight oil, if appropriate, will make it easier to start on cold mornings. |
Saszta
| | Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 12:26 pm: |
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The bike is totally stock. What you say about the oil makes sense and I was thinking about that myself, but it just seems that a computer controlled EFI system should be able to handle what the bike needs for a cold start, shouldn't it?
Never had a fuel injected bike before this one and I'm used to using a carb choke system in cold weather. Just find it strange and I'm wondering if it can be the TPS, oxygen sensor, or dirty injectors causing this.
Anyone hear of injector cleaner being a bad thing to use for these bikes? I wouldn't want to erode some rubber seals in the system. |
Steve_mackay
| | Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 01:21 pm: |
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Saszta, you're not the only one. Our '06 CityX has the same problem. Also 100% stock. One thing that does help, make sure your idle is set to the high side, like 1100 RPM when warm.
Thursday's ride at 18F(-8C), displayed similar results to yours. I *HAVE* to use the throttle to get it to start, and stay running. |
Crazybuell
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 07, 2006 - 07:08 pm: |
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YOUR IDLE PROBLEM IS PROBABLY CAUSED BY YOUR TP SENSOR AND AFV BEING OUT OF SPEC. THESE SHOULD BE RESET AT 1K AND EVERY 5K MILES AFTER THAT NOT HAVING THEM ADJUSTED CAUSES A LOW/POOR IDLE. YOUR LOCAL DEALER CAN HOOK TO THERE DIGITAL TECH AND LET YOU KNOW IF IT IS OUT OF SPEC. IN ABOUT 10 MINUTES. GOOD LUCK |
Saszta
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 08, 2006 - 12:47 am: |
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Well, I did have to manually increase the idle setting on the bike recently as it was running too low and almost stalling, so what you say could be it. By the way, what does AFV stand for? I don't much care for acronyms and don't spend much time remembering them...
thanks,
Steve. |
Steve_mackay
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 08, 2006 - 07:54 am: |
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AFV=Air/Fuel value.
EFI buells reset the AFV when running at 3500RPM for more than like 30 seconds IIRC.
The dealer can set it to whatever they want, but the bike will reset itself to accommodate changing climate conditions.
I know my TP sensor could use adjustment. But I'm waiting to do it after I get the race ECM. |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 08, 2006 - 11:57 pm: |
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"The dealer can set it to whatever they want.."
I'm not sure this is true. The dealer can read it, and the dealer can reset it to 100 (and so can you with VDSTS). But I'm not so sure that the Digital Tech can dial in a specific AFV value. The scanalyzer couldn't.
The AFV learn range is a lot wider than just 3500 RPM but it is a subset of closed loop mode RPM range. Steady state/light load is far more important for rapid AFV acquisition than a specific RPM, but it does have to be in the right RPM range.
Idle problems are often TPS related, but there are lots of other things that can do it. If you aren't getting a steady idle at reasonable RPM, it's always a good idea to confirm no intake leaks anywhere.
Temperature idle related issues are hardly specific to FI systems. My carbed bikes like to be set at a higher idle in colder weather, lower idle in hotter weather. So do my FI bikes. A servo controlled throttle plate on an FI system could prevent this, but I like simple.
Personally, I really hate the location that Buell has used for the idle adjust, such that it requires a tool and can't be done from the riding position. My S1W has it right next to my right leg, and I farkle with it all the time. Frankly, I'd like an idle trim knob on the dash. Hmm, I should invent one...
Al |
Saszta
| | Posted on Sunday, November 12, 2006 - 01:24 pm: |
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Hey,
I just had my throttle position sensor reset and it idles better, a little higher too (1100 rpm), but as Al says, it's probably a better thing in cold weather.
The strange thing is now the rpm's take a while to drop. It stays at 2k rpm for a few seconds when coming to a stop and then finally drops down slowly. I'm thinking that may be an air leak and that can also be the cause of the hard starting and rough idling until warm up temp.
Any thoughts? |
Blake
| | Posted on Sunday, November 12, 2006 - 01:33 pm: |
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Try adjusting your idle down to 1050 rpm and see if that makes a difference. |
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XB9s Hard cold starting