| Author | Message | ||
     Spatten1 |
Is it really necessary to have a special tool to remove the clutch? The manual indicates that you need a clutch spring compressor. Can I remove the clutch without disassembling it? I just need to strip the primary case for engine dissasembly, the clutch is fine. A clutch is usually such a simple maintenance item with no special tools required. | ||
| Reepicheep |
You don't have to take apart the clutch, just remove the whole clutch assembly and stator cup and primary chain all together as a unit. It's two "big freaking nuts", one of which is reverse threaded, but not a big deal. When you put the crank nut back on, there is an updated torque spec for it higher then what is in your manual. | ||
| Spatten1 |
I don't see the big friggin nut. There is the adjustment screw inside a bearing, held in by a snap ring. The manual says I may be injured or die if I remove a snap ring, but it may be talking about a different one. Can I remove the one holding the bearing and adjustment screw? Is there no pressure on them? Thanks, SP | ||
| Spatten1 |
Just re-read my post: the big friggin nut must be behind the adjuster screw/bearing, so I can't get to it. | ||
| Jackbequick |
You remove the snap ring out and lift the whole adjuster screw/bearing assembly out. Then you can see the big nut. It is 1-3/16", a 30mm socket will work, and it has a *left hand thread*! The snap ring that the clutch spring compressor is needed for is not visible yet, it is behind the other stuff. Check back for the torque specs and cleaning and Loctite instructions, you don't want to mess that up or the nuts can come loose. Jack | ||
| Spatten1 |
Awesome, thanks. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Sorry forgot about the snap ring and the "parts in front of the big friggin nut".  | ||
| Henrik |
Make sure you have a replacement snap ring when you go to reassemble. don't reuse the old snap ring. Henrik | ||
| Spatten1 |
The "parts in front of the big friggin nut" might be considered any part of the engine if I am working on it. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Spatten... Drop the cutting torch, and step away from the engine Henrik... is that standard procedure for that big a snap ring? I know the "press on clip for the shifter pawl" should never be re-used, but a big snap ring of spring steel like that one never seemed stressed... I don't think it ever came anywhere near reaching Youngs Modulus (or whatever that is called). I'm sure it's cheap, so silly to reuse, but I never even thought about it, and had those parts off more times then I can count. Of all the issues I had with my M2 primary area, that was one thing that was always fine | ||
| Spatten1 |
Thanks for all the help guys. Everything came off easily with your input. I did not have any serious injuries or death when I removed the snap ring. The engine is stripped, other than the oil pump and stator (new question in the electrical section of the KV). The oil pump drive gear does look good. | ||
| Henrik |
Bill: AFAIR the service manual calls for a new snap ring - but I could be wrong about that. If you take a look at the pictures in this post: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=47623&post=731219#POST731219 you'll note that the old (only one R&R) snap ring is not completely seated in the groove. I chose to replace it with a new snap ring. Henrik | ||
| Reepicheep |
Makes sense. Now that I think about it, I seem to recall my M2 had a small chip out of that groove as well. I ignored that as well When in doubt, do what Henrik does, not what I do. Don't make me bring out the green tinker toy again Good news about the drive gear. It seems to be a lot less of an issue on the XB's (though not a non issue). | ||
| Henrik |
Thanks for the Kudos Bill - not entirely sure I deserve them, having had plenty of little Oooopses while wrenching  Henrik (Message edited by Henrik on November 07, 2006) |
