| Author |
Message |
    
Liquorbox
| | Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 10:20 am: | 
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“Pressurized” air-boxes are only effective above 100 MPH. |
Daves
| | Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 11:04 am: |
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Vaneo1
That isn't a RR bike
It started life as a XB9S
If you want to talk to the people that built it contact John at Hoban Brothers in Osman WI
920-726-4990 |
Trojan
| | Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 11:08 am: |
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Diablobrian
| | Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 12:16 pm: |
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Firebolt with ram air:
This is a home brewed copy of the older design used by some race teams, like Brian
Bemisderfer, and Walt Sipp. At Daytona is developed enough pressure to tear the corners
out of the fiberglass air box cover.
Still considering putting a copy on my street bike. (we had a thread on this in
april or may I think)
The benefit on the street, assuming the tubes you use are not too restrictive, is
more for cool air induction than for ram air. speeds do need to be >100mph for a
ram air effect to work.
Also keep the ducts as straight as possible without hitting your handlebars.
Covering the underside of your airbox with aluminum tape is also a very good idea for
keeping intake temps down. I have also sealed up the back end of my open air box
with closed cell foam to prevent hot air around the rear cylinder from rising into
my intake air. If you go ram air you have to do that anyway  So why not?
It is possible to go with the full carbon ram air set-up on the street, but you'll
need to re-locate your headlights and get one of those electronic gage set-ups you
can stick on top of the ducts with velcro or similar. Like the ones the company I
bought my shifter from makes: http://www.translogicuk.com/in_detail.htm
Don't cheap out and try the bicycle gages. Those don't have tach, aren't built for
the vibrations, aren't (usually) waterproof,and aren't (usually) backlit. I tried
that kind of set-up before on one of my old GSX-Rs. I was never happy with the
bicycle speedos. The translogic stuff isn't cheap, but it is very high quality. |
Snakedriver
| | Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 01:30 pm: |
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Fuel is the contributing factor in carb icing. FI engines dont suffer from intake icing. |
Vaneo1
| | Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 02:19 pm: |
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thanks Diablo, great info. About usung tape to seal off the bottom of the airbox, I a few months ago, I actually used weatherstripping for a car door to do that job. I placed it inside of my airbox at the right spots, but for some reason I wasnt satisfied so I pulled it off a couple weeks ago. Tape sounds fast, and simple. I am really excited about this project, kinda the same feeling I got when I rode my Buell for the first time.  |
Blake
| | Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 05:56 pm: |
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Jeremy,
Heat is required to evaporate any liquid, including fuel. That heat is absorbed by the fuel from its surroundings including the air and carburetor surfaces which the fuel contacts. You are absolutely right that some cooling is also provided by venturi effect.
Carburetor icing refers to the buildup of ice inside the carburetor venturi due to the condensation and freezing of moisture contained in air as it undergoes evaporative cooling while vaporizing fuel.
A venturi system can ice up, but it has to be pretty close to freezing,
with visible moisture (not a likely time to be flying a Pietenpol). A
venturi does not ice nearly as readily as a carburetor, because it lacks
the evaporative cooling of the gasoline which contributes greatly to
carburetor icing.
Above paragraph from http://www.matronics.com/digest/pietenpol-list/Dig est.Pietenpol-List.2006-01-23.txt
Carburetor Icing-- In the absence of a heat source, an evaporating liquid cools its immediate surroundings. Carburetor icing becomes possible when the intake air temperature is reduced to below the freezing point of water. The air temperature is reduced both by evaporative cooling of the avgas and also expansion cooling as air passes through the carburetor venturi. |
Xring
| | Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 06:19 pm: |
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I do agree that some thermal shielding, meaning IR reflective insulation, for the floor of the airbox and the inner walls of the fuel tank/frame might be beneficial in aiding intake charge temperature reduction.
That's all I'm saying. Or in the case of an open system that is able to pull intake air from around the engine, significant (%-wise) gains can be accomplished by creating a cold (that is, ambient air temperature) air source.
My original point is that sticking some scoops on and routing them to your airbox probably won't result in a ram air effect. But it is possible that you would be lowering the temperature of your intake air, depending on what intake setup you were using beforehand.
Bill |
Blake
| | Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 10:47 pm: |
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Gotcha.
"But it is possible that you would be lowering the temperature of your intake air, depending on what intake setup you were using beforehand."
That is the part I don't see, but maybe I'm not seeing it cause I'm missing something. I don't see where the XB intake is pulling air from the engine or anywhere near it or anywhere the air is being heated prior to entering the airbox. |
Xring
| | Posted on Sunday, November 05, 2006 - 12:10 am: |
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}I don't see where the XB intake is pulling air from the engine or anywhere near it or anywhere the air is being heated prior to entering the airbox.
If you were running a drilled inner airbox cover or one of the aftermarket open airboxes, you'd be pulling intake air from around the engine. It would be a matter of testing to determine if the increased airflow from such a mod would offset the increase in intake temperature.
On a stock XB, especially one that the snorkel has been removed, the intake air would be heated going through the frame on pre-2006 models (we all know how warm the frame gets) and also from the airbox itself. Probably not a lot, as the air would be moving pretty fast.
I could be wrong. Intake air temp vs. maximum airflow was a big debate with the Shelby turbo guys a few years ago.
I don't like intake noise, so it is an academic question for me. Also I don't care about 3% (or whatever) hp gain. I'm sticking with the stock setup.
The 2006 air intake looks good, though. Wouldn't mind having that just from a cosmetic standpoint.
Bill |
Diablobrian
| | Posted on Sunday, November 05, 2006 - 03:07 am: |
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If you are running an open air box there is a significant area at the back end of
the air box that is open and can pull heat up from around the rear cylinder.
If you run the stock airbox it is far less of an issue. |
Tbowdre
| | Posted on Sunday, November 05, 2006 - 11:24 pm: |
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with the back opened up from the open air box mod then if you also open up the front you might create an area of low presure at the back and an area of high presure at the front.... cold air intake via increased flow throught the box.... maybe |
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