| Author | Message | ||
     Vaneo1 |
I was thinking about how my bolt would perform and look if I installed two air intakes around the fron fairing, and connected them to two vacuum hoses which in turn would connect to the airbox. Can someone offer some oopinion as to how the bike will perform with such conditions, and any pics if you have done so. Full Race kit is installed. | ||
| Hogs |
More trouble and clutter than its worth, Yeah IF you are going top speed all the time and only then you may pick up "a" pony , I may be wrong BUt I wouldn`t go there... | ||
| Daves |
like this?  | ||
| Hogs |
IS that a Sears Vacuum unit Dave, or Filter Queen LoL... Like I said ITS all race in mind...Correct??? | ||
| Pwnzor |
Looks like a lot of extra hose on that one Daves, and it looks like the hoses were actually cut off a vacuum cleaner. I wonder if they flop around at all? | ||
| Djkaplan |
Most home-brewed ram air systems don't follow conventional wisdom for such devices. The passage way for the 'rammed' air has to be larger than the air intake opening to slow the air down and increase atmospheric pressure in the airbox. Get everything right and you should see a moderate increase in performance... at about 150mph. It would look very trick on a T-bolt, but I suspect your money would be better spent elsewhere if you're looking for any benefit on the street. | ||
| Daves |
I haven't ridden that bike on the track since they went to that setup so I don't know if it flops or not. They used to use a radiator hose for a truck. It wasn't in the way or flop around. That bike came in 4th in the Thunderbike race and won the Formula 40 at Daytona a couple weeks ago so it must work ok for racing. | ||
| Hogs |
That was just a J/K Dave and I think ya know that LoL.... | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Here's what you need. (as long as you don't need guages)  | ||
| Daves |
Yeah, I know Hogs. The carbon setup Craig posted sure looks better | ||
| Hogs |
99buellx1, Does that not get rid of the headlights as well? Who makes that setup? | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Don't know about the headlights? It's the Hal's kit. Trust me though, you dont want to know how much it costs. Sure is pretty though. | ||
| Tbowdre |
forget the RAM air, but what about a cold air intake? the inside of our air box gets frigggin hot. seems like a good idea. | ||
| Js_buell |
Well I don't think the look in the carbon kit is what makes it better, like it was said before the passage for the air must be made so the air flow nicely (free of turbulence) and the air box as to be sealed so the only available air is coming from the tubes and that what it look like with the carbon set up but I would have to see it in real to confirm this. Then you would have a real ram air that would increase you power but like said before it would be at speed. | ||
| Xring |
Airflow around a motorcycle (or car, or whatever) is very complex. Unless you have a lot of experience (and sometimes, even if you do), you may end up impeding airflow. This is a case where common sense may not provide the right answer...you need data, and trial & error to get the results you want. A nice cold air source, though. That can be worthwhile. Good luck, Bill | ||
| Blake |
What DJ said.  Five stars for DJ! Where would the engine be getting hot air, off the headers or cylinders? I don't see that the intake is near enough to either. I don't buy the "cold air" intake stuff. Less restriction? Yes. "Cold"? I don't see it. Maybe packing the airbox with ice would create a cold air intake?  (Message edited by Blake on November 04, 2006) | ||
| Freezerburn |
Maybe someone should run around with a thermometer in the airbox and see what temp the air charge really is. I volunteer someone with a translucent airbox to do the job. If there is little difference between airbox temp and the outside, the air density difference would be negligible. That would make the 'cold air' hype just a bunch of hot air. | ||
| Xring |
Cold in this case means ambient air temperature. That is, cold in comparison to air that is heated as it travels through a hot airbox or engine compartment. Bracket racers do, indeed, pack ice on their intake manifolds. Bill | ||
| Tbowdre |
you must be kidding me! no one here has removed their air box after a ride.... it's like a sauna in there. Anyway... doubt it makes a difference. just seems like engines prefer cooler air in the intake | ||
| Anonymous |
Ram air was good for increasing air pressure about 3 percent in the RR in top gear -- which everything being equal, should boost power an equal amount. That's at speeds around 150 mph and more. | ||
| Xring |
Air temp vs power http://www.amdtechnik.com/technical.chargecooling. cfm 68d F to 104d F = -3.5% in power. Bill | ||
| Buellerthanyou |
Awright, that's it...I'm only riding in the Winter now!  HellBuelly J "In the depth of winter, I finally learned that within me there lay an invincible wheelie." --Albert Camusbuelly | ||
| Sloppy |
Save your time, energy and money and go sign up for a track day. Now THAT is money well spent -- there's no easier way to show your back to Yamkawsuzida than by taking a track day... | ||
| Blake |
XRing, Yes. Understood that cool air is more dense. Please explain how on our Buell motorcycles you get 104oF air to cool to 68oF as it enters the intake. Or how if riding on a 68oF day, your intake is finding 104oF air to send to the engine. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I think he was saying that a 36 degree change in ambient temp can result in a 3.5% loss of power regardless of whether there is a ram air system or not. Moving through the air can substantially decrease the temp (think carb ice in light aircraft) but not at the speeds we would normally be traveling! | ||
| Blake |
Carb ice results mostly from evaporative cooling as the atomized fuel in the fast moving airstream hits the carb wall and... evaporates. | ||
| Blake |
I do agree that some thermal shielding, meaning IR reflective insulation, for the floor of the airbox and the inner walls of the fuel tank/frame might be beneficial in aiding intake charge temperature reduction. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Actually no. If it were evaporative cooling, the moisture would go somewhere else. It would be moving from liquid to gaseous state. With carb ice, the air temp is decreasing due to the movement of the air into and through the intake under speed. Due to the decreased temp of the ambient air, moisture cools to the freezing point and accumulates where the air moves slower through the intake track (bends, joints, baffles, valves, etc.). The surfaces are also cooled by the air flowing past at speed. So you have moisture reaching the point of freezing flowing past interior surfaces that are at or below the freezing point. Due to the speed of the aircraft and temperature decreases (carb ice can occur with ground temps as low as 70 degrees) carb ice can form frighteningly quickly. | ||
| Vaneo1 |
Cool guys, thanks for replying with some input on this. I go nowhere near 150, I dont think my bike is capable of that in its current state, however, seeing how many of you say I wouldnt see much of an increase, I am still considering it because I am shooting for the A+ in the creativity category. Yes Daves I love the RR pic, thats what Im aiming for. Seeing how noone has posted any 'bolt pics with ram air, guess I got a shot at being the first. (I know, I know, 28 responses is no where near inclusive of BadWeb in its entirety, but the idea of being first works for me!) | ||
| Vaneo1 |
BTW please, lets continue this, this is great! |
