| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Concur! | ||
| Swampy |
You don't have to remove the head to change the cam shafts! To take the head off you probably wouldn't have to take the engine out, there appears to be plenty of room once you get the rocker cover and rocker box off. But, If you do have to.....just remember.....The Little Kid did it by his self, so I am sure anyone is capable of taking the frame off the engine with out too much trouble. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You're right. You dont have to remove the head to do the camshafts, just the rocker assembly. But for the head or rocker assembly, you'll have to drop the motor down some (or at least support it-removing the engine would be a nightmare). Of course, with adjustable pushrods (and covers) you dont have to touch the top end,or even remove the gas tank, but I guess that might be "THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX" OR "PRODUCT IMPROVING" or "IMPROVISING"! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Ed & Buellistic: The rocker arms are at an average price of $200+ for the pair. But still a possible alternative to changing cams and a possible advantage down the line. Keeping the 'possibly' lighter pushrods aren't going to make much, if any, difference in an engine this mild, except to bend if further mods are done. Putting in a cam with such a high lift to have to cut the case? I think you've missed the point of this discussion. Again, I repeat. Have a plan of what you want to accomplish before you start. If you're going to pull the head and are thinking about changing cams later and you dont go to adjustable pushrods (w/covers) now, you'll have to pull the rocker assembly or head again to change cams, or lifters, or pushrods. Changing cams with the adjustable pushrods is a job that takes less than an hour. If you change to high performance lifters, you'll need the adjustable pushrods anyway (but thats really off the initial discussion). The Point: A modification can be the end of the line or a stepping stone to further mods. Think ahead. I guess if you dont know how to install pushrod tubes they leak. I've been using them for over 20 years now and have never had a problem with leaks. Its not that difficult. "Collapsible push rod covers have another gasket to weep/leak, but they do look RACIE ..." was that a Bullistic dig about it only being done for looks? I guess I should've have waited for you to come along and then it could have been your idea? The original pushrod cover never leaks and if it does its sooo easy to change? or do you have a problem with leaking gaskets? | ||
| Ezblast |
I concur, however, I like the stock pushrod cover, and so far have not found a reason to change over from the stock pushrods on the red - I think we are talking about a specific combination here - the b50 with the 1.75 rockerarms may be a easy way to get a good boost for the stock platform without doing other mods engine wise. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Mabueller |
"SE module fits the XL (Sportster) or Blast and the part number is listed at the Buell website. " I can't find it listed on Buell's site and Crane nor American list it for the Blast. Mmelvis, do you remember what you bought? Or anyone else have the different model numbers? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
copy of my post at the ignition module thread Crane is the Screaming Eagle module. Since the Blast module also fits the XL (part # 32942-02) it may still be available (old stock at Buell & HD dealers). I'm sure Crane will still carry it. Its a direct replacement part with 1 wire deleted, but no wiring or other modifications are needed for installation. | ||
| Sarodude |
I believe that part # is still available as a Screamin Eagle "Race Only" product. -Saro | ||
| Mabueller |
A question about which valve springs to get for two different options. At Rev Perf I see Blast kits with different pressure, lift, shape and diameter. Any suggestions? Option 1, Keep original cam. Just change springs and new ignition module. Option 2, Change springs, B50 cam and module. | ||
| Mabueller |
One other question. Does it make sense to change springs and go to a B50 cam without adding an higher rpm module? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I see the options as change springs and ignition module or just change to the B50's. Doing all 3 would be great! You dont have to increase the rpm redline (assuming thats why you change the module) to use those cams and you can always add the module later. As I've always said, if you dont "change to the adjustable pushrods and tubes" then change the cams when you do the springs. If you're going to pull the head to do the springs, then I'd do a high compression piston at that time. What do you want to accomplish? How far do you want to go with the engine? What does Rev Perf suggest? You may want to 'bite the bullet' and do the whole package at once or set it up for further mods down the line. My Opinion is that the higher rev limit (7500) makes for a nicer riding bike than just going for a little more grunt with the better cams. | ||
| Ezblast |
If your doing the springs and guides, and ignition - would suggest stepped guides, and also a more powerful cam B70 or SE 550. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Mabueller |
Any preferred spring size to consider ? I am not yet sure how far I want to go. I use it for commuting as well as joy riding, often two up (About 340 lbs total). Right now it is rock solid at 6K miles and I do not want to mess with that. I need to re-jet and re-pack the V&N this winter and I figure under $700 +/- spent to boost the mid-range and maybe add a tach and a Ralph shock and I should be fine until I need tires. My son may choose to learn on it so I don't need to much "Dark Side". | ||
| Ezblast |
The go with the SE 550 XB style cam - gentle but fast ramp for longevity and more power - better springs, guides(stepped) and seals and a high comp piston with total seal rings and enjoy! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You can do the springs without pulling the head and if your budget minded and need the torque for 2 up riding (IE use the stock size valves) that may be the best way to go. I'd also recommend the SE550 cam or B50's as it is easier on the valvetrain. There are 3 different spring set ups: The 'beehive' spring. Which is a lot like a progressive rate shock spring, wide at the bottom and skinnier at the top. Dual springs: 1 smaller spring inside the bigger spring. Single spring. Simply put they are made to match the cam grind and rpm limit of your engine. Which one you get mostly depends on cams and rpm limit. Not all will 'bolt right on' to the stock head set up though. I would tell Rev Perf what you need the springs for and they should supply the correct ones. If you do pull the head, I'd do the high compression piston with competition hone. Unfortunately if you do the (stepped) valves guides you may need the whole head to be redone as it may have to be cleaned and the valves re cut.At that point you may want to invest a little more money in porting. Even with a redline of 7500 rpm this should still be a very reliable set up. Both EZ and I run the same similar set up and are not kind to it at all. PS As long as you dont tell your son there is a rev limiter you can adjust it to any rpm you want and limit the horsepower!!! Disclaimer: Any internal mods to the engine may result in decreased reliability due to the quality of the work performed, horsepower increases, or added engine stress. Though it is usually possible to change the valve springs without removing the head on any OHV engine, I have not done it on the Blast and do not know what will be in the way or how far you may have to drop the engine to do it. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on October 10, 2006) | ||
| Mabueller |
Great point! >PS As long as you don't tell your son there is a rev limiter you can adjust it to any rpm you want and limit the horsepower!!! Thanks all. I hope others are getting ideas out of the answers to my questions. I try to only ask a question when I can't find it elsewhere on the site. | ||
| Swampy |
Rev limiters only work on the way up! lol! | ||
| Buellistic |
Swampy: A PROFOUND statement !!! | ||
| Joey |
Once again, I'm looking at the big bore kit. I can't seem to get to nallinracing.com. Anybody know a good link for a big bore kit? I'll likely get around $750 soon, and I'll probably only have to spend about $50... | ||
| Blake |
Cycle Rama or Revolution Performance. | ||
| Blake |
They be sponsors. Sponsors keep this place up and running. Please support our sponsors.  | ||
| Ezblast |
Go with Revolution Performance - the kits on sale! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Joey |
So, if I get the 515 big bore kit, can I just buy an XB head? My wife has given me the OK to start doing this stuff. Even if I spend more money than I'll have, she says I can do it. So, for starters, do I need to do anything else to my stock engine for the big bore kit? I figure the steps will be as follows: 1. Big bore kit 2. XB head 3. Cams and associated stuff 4. Ignition Can someone point me in the right direction? Either that, or I'll just search around here and find what I need eventually... Thanks! | ||
| Ezblast |
XB must go with XB to work correctly, aka XB head with XB piston, then the XB/SE550 cam, then ignition; to work the kit - 515 Big bore kit, ignition, upgrade head to your price level - sugest at least springs capable of 600 lift, stepped valve guides, good seals, and the rest is up to you - from a stage 1 level up to a stage 3 (my own is a stage 1 & 1/2 - lol), cam B70 or SE550 are good street choices - with the SE550 being the more mild on the drive train - jet accordingly - a dyno run would help greatly in this - use the 45/160 as a base line for the jetting - you'll go either up or down one on the main - enjoy! Thats a great wife you have there! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
As you can see, there are 2 different ways to go. If you go the XB head & cams route they can probably give you an XB piston to go with the 515 big bore kit. Whichever route you go my advice is to spend the extra $$ for the adjustable pushrods and tubes. It gives you the ability to changes cams easily and check if there is any kind of valvetrain problem easily. If you're changing the cams change to the improved oil pump drive gear (part # 26391-06) while your at it. | ||
| Ezblast |
Note - the Blast head flows better out of the box than the XB head, though the XB has a higher flow potential. GT - BOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Note-the Blast head flows better at lower rpms providing better low end torque. A good point to remember is to build or use whichever head that will fit your desired performance. Different cam grinds will work better with different head configurations. | ||
| Joey |
After looking at Stage 1 prep for the head, if I want to do it right, I should just go Stage 2. So here's the bill: $375 for the 515 kit at revperf.com $275 for the Stage 1 process OR $524.19 for the Stage 2 process I don't know how much I'm allowed to spend yet. I know my Honey will go for Stage 1, but maybe not for Stage 2 yet. Will I be putting any undue stress on anything if I do just the kit and Stage 1 or 2 head rework now and the rest (valves, pushrods, ignition, etc.) next winter? At what point will it benefit me to go XB instead of keeping my Blast head? If I plan to run up to 7500 RPM, would I do better to go with a stock XB head and 515 kit for now, thereby leaving my options more open? Gads! There are too many factors! If I go XB heads, do I need to get adjustable pushrods? I think I'm going to just read this entire section of the forum before I spend anything!  What it boils down to is, what's the most I can do with around $500 to $800, knowing I'll be riding for a season and then finishing next winter with a similar amount of cash? | ||
| Ezblast |
The stage 2 will include all the valve work, etc. inc. heavier springs, etc. - just add your cam choice - no you don't need adjustable pushrods - the 515 and stage 2 would be an ideal start, then hipo ign. and cam, and other misch. goodies next winter - such as rear sets, etc. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Joey |
If my budget doesn't allow, would it be worthwhile to spend the $385 for the stock XB head to cap the 515, or just forego the head work for now? I've been reading past posts. I think I have it all figured out, except for how much I'll be able to spend. Stage 1 just isn't going to do enough for me to bother. I'm still researching cams. Or, maybe if it isn't worth it to get the XB head, I'll get my case bored and go 600!  Gaaa! Thanks! I was going to do this a few years ago, but stuff got in the way. (Message edited by Joey on November 02, 2006) |
