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Idave
| Posted on Wednesday, October 11, 2006 - 04:32 pm: |
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Can someone please explain the process for removing the rear and front wheels on the Uly? It's time to install a rear tire, and I need to remove the wheel . Also, what stands are you folks using? I have Lockhart Phillips race stands which won't work without swingarm spools, so it looks like I'll be buying PitBull stands. Thanks BTW, I tried to search and couldn't find the process. |
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Dr_greg
| Posted on Wednesday, October 11, 2006 - 07:20 pm: |
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I'd recommend you get the Service Manual; it's one of the best, IMHO. F/R removal is really pretty simple, but I'm not going to try and list all the steps (someone else can do that). Instead of a stand I use a floor jack underneath the muffler and tie-downs from the bars up to the rafters to keep things balanced. When removing the front wheel I remove the lower fender assembly since it provides more room to work. When removing the rear wheel you have to pull the lower fairing, plastic side cover (or whatever it's called), decrease the belt tension (via 15 turns out on the axle), then remove idler pulley, then remove axle and wheel. Get the manual... |
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Idave
| Posted on Wednesday, October 11, 2006 - 07:22 pm: |
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Thanks Dr. Greg. Oh DaveS,,,,,,,got a manual you can sell me? |
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Brat
| Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 05:41 am: |
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I didn't do any of that, to remove front wheel I had to remove brake caliper, to remove back wheel I just unscrewed the axle and the wheel/drive belt loosens as it is tapered, then the reverse when you put it back on! |
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Ikeman
| Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 08:56 am: |
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I know I didn't remove everything the manual told me to. But then again I also took the screws out of one side of the lower front fender to give me more room to get the front wheel off and on, and I don't believe the manual said to do that either. Don't forget that the front axle is LEFT HAND THREAD. I'd say get the service manual as well. I got mine as part of the deal when I bought the bike. |
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Ikeman
| Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 08:58 am: |
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And I forgot - no stands. Floor jack under the muffler and side stand. I only did one wheel at a time. And amazingly enough my sidestand didn't break. |
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Idave
| Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 02:50 pm: |
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Can someone tell me the Front and rear axle torque specs, and also the rear pinch bolt torque specs? I'm getting a manual, but not fast enough . |
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Daves
| Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 04:40 pm: |
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Of course I have manuals! |
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Daves
| Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 04:49 pm: |
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frt axle 39-41 ft lbs frt pinch bolts 20-22 ft lbs rear axle, tighten to 23-27 ft lbs, then back it out 2 FULL TURNS then tighten to 48-52 ft lbs pinch bolt 40-45 ft lbs This is out of the 2006 Service Manual |
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Bienhoabob
| Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 05:19 pm: |
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Rear Wheel: 1) Floor jack under muffler w/ties downs. I found it easier not to jack up bike until axle was out. 2) Remove Rear caliper carrier fasteners (below brake Buell logo on swingarm -2) 3)Loosen rear axle pinch fastener (under axle right side) 4)Remove lower belt guard 5)Remove axle, Loosen 15 turns, then jack-up bike and remove the rest of way. 6) Remove belt from wheel. Install, reverse procedure. 1) Center rear wheel in swingarm, lower bike to align swingarm and wheel hub. 2)Apply Anti-seize lubricant to hole that axle sides into and also on the fat ends of the axle. 3) Tighten rear axle to 23-27ft-lbs or 31-36Nm, then back off two full turns and then retighten 48-52 ft-lbs or 65-70.5 Nm 4)Put everything else back, pump brakes to make sure they're working. (pads might have gotten spread during process. 5) rear pinch fasteners to 40-45ft-lbs (54-61NM) Front Removal: 1) Remove right side lower fender fasteners. 2) Loosen front pinch fasteners (2) on front fork. 3) Remove axle Note: front axle is left handed. 4) Raise the wheel up until the rotor clears the caliper and rotate the fork leg counterclockwise allowing wheel clearance for removal. 5) remove wheel. Installation: 1) Apply anti-seize lubricant to axle 2) tighten axle to 39-41 ft-lbs (53-56 Nm) 3) tighten front pinch fasteners to 20-22 ft lbs. 27-30Nm The only trouble I had was that I didn't tighten the tie-downs enough, and the bike almost fell off the jack. Something to watch out for. All the specs are from the Manual, procedure was part from the manual and part from a post that Thunderbox put on the site. (For some reason I couldn't find it) Good luck, take your time. Bob C. |
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Chadhargis
| Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 05:57 pm: |
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Bienhoabob has it right. NO need to remove the front caliper or the belt idler pully. You can easily have both wheels off inside of 5 minutes. |
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Idave
| Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 08:01 pm: |
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I need to find a better Torx driver than the one that came in the stock Buell tool kit. While it does work, it takes awhile. Like 10 minutes to remove the 7 screws fastening the belt guard and rear hugger. After finally getting the spaghetti clear, I needed to determine the proper torque specs for the rear axle. Not having a service manual, I discovered the factory torque setting was 84 foot lbs. That's the amount of torque applied to my Uly's rear axle from the factory at time of manufacture. Anyway, I removed the rear wheel/tire assembly:
Check out the new Pit Bull stand making this episode possible
I have 5600 miles on this rear tire. I also discovered a nail in the tire upon removing it. The nail completely punctured the tire, however, it never leaked. Must be because I'm so gentle on my tires.
I heard Dunslop is on strike, so scoring this replacement D616 locally was like finding a needle in a haystack. SWMoto is out of stock. I called all over the country, and located one 40 miles from my house.Picked it up for $139.00. More than online prices, but less than retail. I love new rubber
My tire changer. A coats 220 and small compressor.
First step is breaking the beads on both side. Easy breazy using the coats.
Step 2 is mount the tire and lube it up. Sounds sexy, but trust me, it's not.
Ooooooh baby.
One side of tire removed from rim:
Old tire removed. Job is much easier using Napa's RuGlyde slime.
New tire ready to be installed:
Using the RuGlyde it's a simple matter of just pressing the first bead onto the rim.
I can usually mount tires solo, but I needed my son's assistance to get this one on. Four hands are better than two. Sweet success.
Tire and wheel assembly ready for installation.
Mounting the wheel is so easy on a Buell. No spacers to fall out, no messy chain, easy breazy.
After a quick test ride, I discovered the tire is round and rolls properly. The End.![: D](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/biggrin2.gif) |
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Bienhoabob
| Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 10:16 pm: |
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You don't balance them? |
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Paochow
| Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 10:28 pm: |
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Nice write up and pics. I've changed plenty of tube tires, but no tubeless yet. I think I'll give it a shot once my rear is toast. |
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Motohawk
| Posted on Thursday, October 12, 2006 - 11:10 pm: |
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Nice write up...and nice shop. Hummm, my Pit Bull stand would not go wide enough, it looks like yours, was worried about the bike sliding back too, is there something out there new? Mike |
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Daves
| Posted on Friday, October 13, 2006 - 07:27 am: |
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Pit Bull makes a wide version that will fit Of course, those are the ones I sell |
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Red_chili
| Posted on Friday, October 13, 2006 - 08:45 am: |
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What's the damage for a Pit Bull, Daves? I was gonna fab something up, but that thing is sweet. |
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Idave
| Posted on Monday, October 16, 2006 - 12:19 pm: |
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Can someone tell me what size allen wrench/hex socket I need to remove the front axle? |
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Jlnance
| Posted on Monday, October 16, 2006 - 03:56 pm: |
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Idave, there is a tool to remove it in the toolkit. It looks like 2 nuts connected together. One goes in the hole. The other gets turned by a wrench. |
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