| Author | Message | ||
     Bookyoh |
My '01 S3T has just begun to do something a little strange. When I turn on the ignition, everything comes on as normal except for the odometer. The display just stays blank for a few seconds. So far I have only noticed it when the bike has sat for a few hours. Any ideas? Thanks, Mark | ||
| Whodom |
Mark, My 00 S3 has done that on occasion, but not in a while. Wiggling the ignition key would fix it. I haven't noticed it happening in a long time; it seemed to clear up on its own. Hugh | ||
| Naustin |
I'll have to watch for this on mine. Thanks for the heads up. I think I saw somewhere that the ignition cylinders wear out, but that's just a vague recollection from reading old archives, and I don't know what bike was being discussed. Please post if you find the cause/solution too. I've read about 100 threads where somebody as a problem, and others make a bunch of suggestions, and then nothing.... So the next guy who reads the thread doesn't get to find out what it turned out to be. | ||
| 5liter |
My ignition switch went bad and it started just like that. I rode it and it got progressively worse. It luckily quit one me at home and not somewhere else | ||
| Sparky |
One of the old posts regarding ignition switch failures pointed out that having a bunch of other keys dangling from the ignition key contributed to premature wear on the lock mechanism eventually causing intermittent 12 VDC ignition dropouts. So, a lightweight quick-disconnect coupling on the ignition key is a good preventive measure. | ||
| Oldog |
the Trip meter is a fuse feed to the odo's "counter" if the Trip is zeroing randomly you want to give the wiring or fuse a look The meters regular odo is powered from a different source if every thing else operates and the meter goes off still look to the wiring, including the grounds. lastly the odometer is a non volitle memory counter most likely, if nothing else is squirrley it could be the counter. On the IG switch check custom chrome for a replacement, some surgery is needed to fit it to the X1 but its about 1/3 the cost you just have to deal with 2 keys... when keys quit things do get wierd. (Message edited by oldog on September 23, 2006) | ||
| Brion |
Mine would do the same thing if the nut on the key switch became a little loose. I would not have it turned as far as I thought because the whole switch turned slightly. | ||
| Iamike |
My ignition switch croaked about 3 years ago. The replacement cost was a bit high so I just wired in a toggle switch out of sight. If I'm worrited about someone stealing it I just lock the steering column. | ||
| Naustin |
Iamike - I like that solution... Good to remember. | ||
| Iamike |
It started out as just a backup when the key switch started acting up. Then I realized that the accessory wiring was the other lead in the 3 and I was only turning on the headlight and ignition with my switch. A couple of years ago I rode out to Phoenix and back, two weeks later the key switch failed to the point that it wouldn't even turn. I had to go back in and wire the toggle switch correctly to turn both circuits on. It's been that way since. I don't remember the exact price of the replacement but it was a kit that had all the locks on the bike. It was either $120 or $200 some for the kit. | ||
| 5liter |
You can find ignition switches on Ebay at times. I got a brand new one as a spare that way. | ||
| Tunes |
I've been dealing with an electrical gremlin on my '99 S3 since last year. It all started with my bike engine cutting out but nothing else, all electrics still on. I would stop, turn the key off, then on, bike would fire and off I go. Wound up changing the Angle Bank Sensor.... then later the Speedo Sensor... then the Voltage Regulator, then the Stator went while taking the battery with it. I even spent the $ and purchased the replacement ignition key set. This all took place from mid-summer '05 to this past weekend. After replacing all of these items, I was STILL having intermittent ECM lamp on's and off's. It would not fail for weeks at a time... but sometimes, the bike would run on the hot side. Ya, I changed the Temp Sensor too. There is a relay immediately under the rear gas tank mount area/frame. The star washer that grounds this relay was loose and intermittently touching. This was causing a floating ground through the charging system which slowly cooked everything over time. I was getting 17V spikes back at the Stator! Relay checked out good, as did all the components... since they're all new now!! So, make sure that relay is grounded!! | ||
| Henrik |
Good info Tunes. Like Al at American Sport Bike says: "everything is a ground fault until proven otherwise ..." Henrik | ||
| Bomber |
Bomber's Corollary to Al's Prime Directive -- "Everything is a ground fault until proven otherwise, unless you touched something in the last calendar quarter -- then, it's whatever you touched." |
