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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archives OSB 001 » Archive through October 05, 2006 » My new 2000 x1!!!!! « Previous Next »

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Griffinbama
Posted on Monday, September 25, 2006 - 11:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


'00 x1 racing stripe

I picked this 2000 x1 up in Atlanta on Saturday. 4600 miles and just one minor scratch on the fuel tank cover. The upgrades include ceramic coated pipes, race module, K&N filter, clubman bars, and upgraded wheels. I was having an awesome ride bringing her home to Alabama until I lost electric power. First the engine light came on, then the speedo, then tachometer, and I knew the fuel injection had to be shortly after that. I was able to coast in to a truck stop. Luckily a Harley dealer was 20 minutes away and had the correct battery. I will diagnose this weekend to see if it was just the battery or a more serious charging system issue. Let's all hope it was just the battery that was 4 years old.
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Duckbuell
Posted on Monday, September 25, 2006 - 11:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Griffin, Wow! That is a sweet X1. Red and white is hot! I am very glad that a Buell Enthusiast owns the bike, rather than someone who wants to rob the motor out of it for a chopper, and sell the rest!
I rode my brothers X1 and it convinced me to buy my S3 instead of a new XB12R.
I hope that an electrical problem is not the reason that my S3 only has 2100 miles.
Guess I will put a volt meter on the battery and find out.
Keep us posted!
Cheers, Patrice
X1


S3
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2006 - 12:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My fist battery died like that.
Just sputtered once and then stopped.

It broke internally or something.
These glass mat sealed batteries just seem to go suddenly without warning.

My second battery crapped out in an even more odd way.
Four years later, I started my bike up in the morning, drive to work, turn it off.
Nine hours later, I come out and the battery is so dead it doen't even click!
Same symptoms as the first: will not draw current on the charger, puts out 12.5V with no load and then dies like a rat when a load is applied.

I'm just saying not to freak out. It's probably just the battery.

Make sure that the new one is installed correcly with the little foam pad and all.
(That's what killed my first battery. Monkey in dealership put it in wrong.)
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Griffinbama
Posted on Wednesday, September 27, 2006 - 12:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I put a mutli-meter and load tester to my bike tonight. After cranking, there were no amps going into the battery, only discharging (about 6amps for the headlight, gages, and everything else). I then went to the voltage regulator and put one probe on the grounded frame and the other on the exposed fins of the regulator and there was very little resistance (What is the proper resistance for that connection? Shouldn't it be in the Mega Ohm range?) After further inspection, I saw where it had been contacting the exhaust mount, and that caused the paint to wear off the regulator and it chipped part of the fin away. Is this a common problem?
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Xldevil
Posted on Wednesday, September 27, 2006 - 12:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Almost everything you need to know:
http://www.saintjohn.nbcc.nb.ca/marriott/x1/#Electrical
Ralph
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Crashm1
Posted on Wednesday, September 27, 2006 - 01:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Griff,
So you started the bike and saw a 6 amp drain with the engine running? At what rpm were you holding the engine at? The resistance between the regulator and chassis ground should be real close to zero ohms. Large or mega ohm readings would indicate an open circuit which would be bad for something that requires a ground.
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Dave
Posted on Wednesday, September 27, 2006 - 08:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hye Griffin - check out the storm fronts Alabama/ Huntsville or whatever it is called.

I'm in Birmingham as well. You'd be the 1st Bueller I've met.

DAve
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