| Author | Message | ||
     Jpgrego |
I've noticed a very slight pulsing in the brakes for some time now but couldn't see any movement in the rotor by spinning the wheel. It's gotten worse recently so I started looking harder and noticed that the rotor isn't worn evenly. On the outside surface I can feel a 'lip' where the friction surface meets the mounting surface on 5 of the 6 mounts. On the inside surface of the rotor I can feel a 'lip' at the same point on 2 of the 6 mounts. Is the rotor warped or just mounted wrong and what should I do about it? I know you aren't supposed to reuse the hardware so I'm unsure what to do. Patrick | ||
| Stealthxb |
torque steering head to spec | ||
| M1combat |
Check all of the mount points of the rotor to be sure that you can push inwards on the rotor. Sometimes they get gunked up and don't allow the rotor to float quite right. | ||
| Dave |
Lyndall pads cleared a similar feel in mine. I was considering a new rotor until I got 'em. I wish I would have done it at the beginning of summer. DAve | ||
| Mcgiver |
Ditto to what Dave said. Brian | ||
| Blake |
Rotor is developing unevenly distributed deposits. The Lyndall pads eliminate that issue. Buell really should fix this issue; it seems wide spread. | ||
| Lovematt |
I second the Lyndalls. I was using the stock pads and was cross sanding the rotor about once a month to keep the pulsing at bay...sand...use until start to feel pulse...sand again...wash, rinse, repeat. I purposely let the pulsing get a little worse than I would like and then put the Lyndalls on and doing the proper initial break in and cool down. Within 20 times of using the front brakes the pulsing started going away. Within a few days the pulsing was pretty much gone and it has not come back at all for several months now...the rotor also looks more even and clean. Plus the performance of the brakes are much better now. | ||
| Josh_cox |
I've got some Lyndall golds in stock if you want to give them a whirl. For many people, this solved the problem. Send me a PM or email jcox@cycleconnectionh-d.com. It is unlikely the problem is with the rotor itself unless it has seen EXTREME heat. We got one so hot on our drag bike from 140mph+ stops that there were hairline cracks in it. | ||
| Spectrum |
As others have said, there are two things that can cause this problem that are minor fixs. Loose steering head and deposits on the rotor. First try cleaning the rotor with some break cleaner and a Scotch-Brit pad. If that doesn't fix it, check the steering head. To check the steering head lift the front end using either stands or the jack points under the muffler. With the front wheel off the ground, grab the forks and pull forward. If you feel any play the steering head bearings are loose. To re-torque the steering head (from a previous post): On the S models you'll also need to remove the handlebar fasteners to get to the steering head capnut. Torque spec on the four bolts is 10-12 ft-lbs. Previous section says to place scissor jack under front end to get the weight off the front end. 1. Detach clutch cable at handlebar and ensure that throttle cables do not bind before measuring steering head resistance. 2. Remove steering stem pinch fastener at upper triple tree. 3. Loosen steering stem capnut and back off several turns. 4. Remove lower triple clamp pinch fasteners, two per side. 5. Tighten steering stem capnut to 38-42 ft-lbs (52-57 Nm). 6. Turn front wheel all the way to the right. 7. See figure 1-34. Hook a spring scale into the hole in front axle. With scale 90 degrees from fork leg, pull front wheel to center position. 8. The desired resistance is between 4.5-6.5lbs (2.0-2.9 kg) with a maximum resistance of 7 lbs (3.2kg). 9. Once the correct steering head pressure has been verified, apply Loctite 272 to steering stem pinch bolt, install and tighten to 17-19 ft-lbs (23-26 Nm). 10. Apply Loctite 272 to lower triple clamp fasteners, install and tighten to 13-15 ft-lbs (18-20 Nm). 11. When adjustment is complete, attach clutch cable and adjust. See 1.9 Clutch/ 12. Remove scissor jack. Be careful tightening the triple tree pinch fasteners. You can break the triple tree clamps real easily. I use 15 ft-lbs on the upper instead of 17 just to be safe. Make sure your torque wrench is accurate and use the minimum settings and be easy pulling on the wrench. I had a little noise and vibration in my steering head...did not do the scale thing or detach the clutch lever (just be careful not to bind the cable)...just hoisted front end and adjusted to correct ft lbs...38-42...no noise or vibration in front end now. Hope this helps. | ||
| Sakuc |
Dump stock brake pads, clean brake rotor. Buy new brake pads, non original. The original pads leave some sort of residue to the disc, causing it to pulse, i got rid of BAD pulsing/chatter by just scrubbing rotor clean and replacing the pads with EBC Sintereds. | ||
| Jpgrego |
Thanks guys, I have some of the Lyndall pads and I'll be cleaning the rotor and putting those on tomorrow or Tuesday... If that doesn't fix it I'll check the steering head bearings. Thanks for the advice. Patrick | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I had both the loose head bearings and a "hot spotted" rotor. Dealer tightened the head and replaced the rotor and brakes. | ||
| Spectrum |
Just to let you now, the Lyndall (Gold) pads make a funny little "zzeeh" sound while breaking. It's not load, but you will notice it. Nothing to worry about, just wanted to give you a heads up.h | ||
| Trac95ker |
Have you tried cleaning all the mounting points for the rotor? It may move when you pull on it but under braking it may act different. Mine was pulsating a little and I used brake cleaner in the area where the rotor floats and hosed it off immediately so it wouldn't mess up my paint. It cured the problem. I didn't sand the rotor but that will help. I have done three track days and the rotor turned blue. It still doesn't pulsate and its not cracked. It does have hot spots but everyone I've seen does too. It doesn't mean it can't happen but as far as the stock pads, they work very well. Enough to lift the back end up under braking with little effort. | ||
| Sakuc |
I don't have 'hot spots' anymore... my new rotor has been graced by Sinter pads only, not the original crap ones. That being said, when i cleaned my old rotor and used sinter pads the old one was nice and shiny also, no blue spots. |
