| Author |
Message |
    
Jmartz
| | Posted on Friday, August 10, 2001 - 01:19 pm: | 
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Dave:
Use the remanants of the shoe as a chain immobilizer. Wedge it between cahin and sprocket. I have a Jims piece that cost me 30 $'s and is about the same, a hunk of nylon.
Jose |
Tim
| | Posted on Friday, August 10, 2001 - 03:19 pm: |
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Over on the picture thread there's a pic showing a buell race bike with "28 oz ATF" written on the primary cover. I think BHR mentioned maybe good for racing but not longevity.
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Richieg150
| | Posted on Friday, August 10, 2001 - 09:59 pm: |
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Dave,sorry to hear bout your mishap!HMMMMMMM im wondering if my 2000 M2 has the improved tensioner or the one that breaks?Anybody know?Talked to a mechanic at local dealer and he never heard of the improved tensioner or of any problem with the existing ones!So much for keeping up to date!Ive got about 4500 miles on my M2,I thinks I read on here somewhere to replace the tensioner at 10000.Maybe i have the new one?Maybe it will be ok until 10000?Maybe I wont ride mine near as hard as Tripper.....nawwwwwwwwwwwwww!! |
Aaron
| | Posted on Friday, August 10, 2001 - 10:19 pm: |
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The new (old) tensioner was a running change put in place on 2/2/2000. So if your bike was built after that date, it should be good.
AW |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Friday, August 10, 2001 - 11:13 pm: |
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I'm thinking I may have a tensioner going bad. I just set the primary after I got back from CO. After about 600 miles I am starting to feel the same "slop" I felt before I set the chain. BTW, when I left for CO, it checked within spec. When I got back (about 3K miles total) it was pretty loose.
Brad |
Aaron
| | Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 08:00 am: |
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Brad: I also know of no way to verify engine manufacture date. I personally would just look at the VIN plate. It's got the month and year of manufacture at the top of the plate. If it's March 2000 or later, I'd be surprised if it's the older tensioner. WIP is expensive, the engine queue can't be that long. If it's Feb or earlier, I'd probably open it up. Just my .02, I don't know for sure.
AW |
Court
| | Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 08:52 am: |
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Concur |
Hoser
| | Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 09:54 am: |
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Brad:
To determine the build date of you engine......
Look below the gear cover ( cam cover ) , just forward of the oil pump you will see a raised portion of the casting on the crankcase , the oil feed line to the filter will be partially blocking what you are looking for. You will see a ten digit number stamped here , with this number you can determine the year ( first two numbers ) , model ( second pair of numbers ) the next six numbers are a julien date. this is the date the engine was manufactured and has nothing to do with the V.I.N.
If you bought your bike new , hopefully you still have the R.S.W.R. form ( the one with the PDI checklist ) , the crankcase number is hand written on this form by the tech who performed the PDI.
The number is assigned at Capital drive where the powertrain is built ( cool place to go for a tour ).
Jeff |
Hoser
| | Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 10:37 am: |
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CORRECTION:......................................
OOPS my memory is not as good as it once was , it's my 46th birthday tomorrow.
I just found one of my R.S.W.R. forms , the first two digits of the crankcase number are the model , the second pair will be the year , the final six will be the julien date.
my 96 S1 has this number in the location stated above......................................
3896004019
38 is the model of the engine
96 is the year
004019 is the julien date
I have much more information about reading numbers at work , this , as stated above , is from memory ( not so good today ) .
Jeff |
Hoser
| | Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 10:59 am: |
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Court:
Do either of these images look familiar ??
Pics were snapped March 97.
Sorry Blake , if this is getting off topic , I will stop now.
Jeff |
Court
| | Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 12:01 pm: |
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Jeff:
Take a guess at what one of those engine racks sounds like falling over?
Court |
Hoser
| | Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 12:20 pm: |
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Court:
I have a mental image of what that would sound like and it sickens me !!
Sloppy forklift operator?? , yes I have seen "skilled" operation of machinery before , normally I am a peaceful man ,that changes when buffoons take to the controls of machinery or powertools.
Jeff |
Dave
| | Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 01:40 pm: |
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Hoser ... the julian date format I'm familiar with (military) is YYDDD. (eg today 11 Aug 01 is 01223) Is there a time stamp in there too?
DAve |
Tripper
| | Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 02:21 pm: |
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Thanx for the help guys. The archives were a big help. (Get an impact wrench and buy a new Engine Sprocket Nut cause the factory likely cross threaded it). When I started to pull the clutch basket out the lost piece of the plastic shoe dropped out. It was ground down a little, but no remaining pieces were found so they must have been small enough to remain suspended in the oil (I hope!). The new tensioner looks like a lifetime piece.
None of the dealers I talked to (5) know about this new improved assembly and some replace them with individual pieces. If the metal carrier breaks they pull a new (thin) metal carrier. If you have your dealer do this repair be certain he uses the new assembly 39975-90A. ACCEPT NO SUBSTITUTE!
Another thing I learned, dealers don't ever pull sportster transmissions. I got parts from 4 dealers to complete this job. Apparently the trannys never fail (and neither do the tensioners!). |
Hoser
| | Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 03:03 pm: |
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DAve:
I have provided inaccurate information re: the above .........................................
Let me clarify ................................
3896004019
This crancase number breaks down like this.....
38 Engine model ID.
96 Model year
004 Day of the year
019 Sequential # that day
I knew I could get it right , had to go to work to find the right info , I would not like to be scorned for providing inaccuate material.
By the way your XR 1000 would have a crankcase # near the oil pump and inside the primary case , it would similar to this..........................
1683275007 or whatever
16 XR 1000
83 1983
275 Day of the year
007 7th engine lovingly assembled that day
Jeff
thinkingaboutstartinganewtopiccalled"whatsinanumber" |
Dave
| | Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 05:02 pm: |
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Thanks for clarifying that Hoser. I thought HD invented a new HD julian numbering system that makes as much sense as their alphabet soup. :-)
DAve |
Sportyeric
| | Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 09:38 pm: |
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Re removing primary chain, etc. the Xl List has a suggestion to use a towel to jam the primary from turning. (credited to a book called 101 performance Projects or something like that.) I can go look if anyone really wants. |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 10:44 pm: |
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Aaron, Hose,r Court
Man,
You guys are the BEST!!!!! I knew there was a reason hung around here!
Thanks for the info, been a long day without any "garage" time. Just back from a wedding an not in an "serial number looking mood" if ya catch my drift.
First thing in the AM will be to check all the stuff mentioned above.
MikeJ,
Didn't plan on homecoming, but might be an interesting jaunt for "demo purposes"!
Depending on the results of tomorrows serial check, I may take you up on the tensioner. No one in town has one in stock (I need a Modesto up here!).
Thanks guys,, umm, my glass is empty again, well, ahh, maybe I better toddle off to bed now and be able to hit it before the crack of noon tomorrow!
BJ |
Mikej
| | Posted on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 11:03 pm: |
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Brad,
Check with Sauk, they seemed to have a decent inventory. There's also a small dealership in MN just north of LaCrosse with a Buell sign that I rode past Memorial weekend, plus the H-D shop in LaCrosse or the one in Mankato (sp?).
One way or another we'll get you fixed up. Also, I just might be on a Buell again next weekend. If I ain't in Detroit I may have to stretch it's legs a bit. Might just have to ride up and see how much gear lube we can spill onto your garage floor.  I should know more by Friday. Ping me at work if you need the tensioner and I'll drop it in the mail Monday afternoon. I think you'll need the primary gasket and shifter post seal as well just to be safe.
MikeJ (put 250 miles on the Honda today, it just ain't the same) |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Monday, August 13, 2001 - 12:20 am: |
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Jeff,
Nearest I can tell, this is my engine number.
0380015754
It's very blocked by the oil line, hard to see, I may be missing a number in front.
If I read it right, my motor was built on day 157, the first part of June. It should have the new tensioner.
I didn't get a chance to check the chain today, but will tomorrow.
Thanks again for the info.
Brad |
Tonyinvabeach
| | Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2001 - 09:11 pm: |
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Anybody,
Is there any way to modify the stock muffler so I can adjust the primary without dropping the back of the muffler. I was thinking of pushing in a small V (1/4 inch or so deep) in the side of the muffler to get access. Will this totally screw up the muffler? Appreciate any tips to make it easier. |
Hans
| | Posted on Friday, August 17, 2001 - 12:31 pm: |
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Tonyivb, Try using an open end wrench from the right side of the muffler. An advantage of stock mufflers is the fact that you can change the tranny oil and adjust the primary with the muffler in place. |
Rocketman
| | Posted on Saturday, August 18, 2001 - 09:08 am: |
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HERE'S ANOTHER
11000 miles, not bad eh ? Still, the 2000 spec one looks a lot better for the job.
Rocket in England |
Skulley
| | Posted on Saturday, August 18, 2001 - 11:45 am: |
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test
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Ralphkw
| | Posted on Saturday, August 25, 2001 - 10:07 pm: |
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After reading the numberous posts about the primary chain tensioner, I got a little worried about mine. My '00 S3T engine serial number is 00015607 and after opening it up, sure as ••••, it had the weaker tensioner. Luckily, it was not broken or cracked. For a minute there, I thought I wasted my time. The weaker tensioner's metal is actually pretty thick. Then I opened the new one and realized it is significantly thicker.
Since I have a ride planned tomorrow, I high-tailed it over to the HD dealer (HD of Dallas). They had all the parts, came to about $30. I just finished it up an hour ago. Wasn't too difficult a job, other than the mess.
I did notice some pretty severe scoring on the top boss. I had thought I stayed on top of the chain tension so it surprised me to see that. Can someone tell me something. When you measure the deflection, how much pressure do you apply? I have to press pretty hard to get it to stop deflecting. Is that the way it should be done?
This is only the second time I really had to tear into it. When I put the HP air cleaner kit on, the rear rocker box started leaking oil pretty bad. Had to replace those gaskets. Used a very thin layer of gasket sealer this time. Didn't want it to leak again. Unfortunately, I probably will never get it off again either. One crazy note, I actually snapped a grade 8 bolt while putting the rocker box back on. I was using a torque wrench only set to 17 ftlbs!
Thanks for the info guys! I'm sure y'all saved me some future headaches.
Ralph |
Newfie_Buell
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 28, 2001 - 10:23 pm: |
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Is there any way to determine if the tensioner is bad without tearing the case off the bike?
I have a 98 S1 with 5900km. I am now wondering if I should have it replaced. |
Hootowl
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2001 - 12:37 am: |
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Not that I know of. Unless you have one of those fiberoptic cameras. Even if it isn't bad, you should still replace it with the updated part. If the backing hasn't broken, I'm sure it's still OK. Mine had 15000 miles on it when I replaced it, and there was nothing wrong with it (other than it being an accident waiting to happen). |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2001 - 09:03 am: |
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Mine split, but fortunately for me it was obvious before the captive parts were no longer captive, the bike suddenly had problems downshifting, and was making some very odd squeaking noises at low RPM. Funny, but I did not notice a lot of the normal "loose primary chain box of rocks" noises. It was more like a squeak or a hoot.
Not to say you should wait for that, just to say that if you do have this happen, you should consider parking it and calling for the pickup. I went about 10 miles on mine this way, and it turned out OK, but I would not have risked it if I had known what was really going on in there.
Even some sort of borescope would not allow you to check the part, the thing that breaks is a captive plate that is more or less sandwiched between the teflon shoe and the bottom of the primary cover.
If you have an older Buell, I would just recommend pulling the cover and replacing the part with your next scheduled tranny fluid change. If it was a newer one (like my 2000), I would do it tonight.
Interestingly, we have had a LOT of failures here, and a few have had parts go floating around in there, but I don't know of anyone who had those parts get into the tranny and chew things up. Wonder why.
Bill |
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