| Author | Message | ||
     Seth |
Court, How's your bike coming along? | ||
| Court |
Which one? | ||
| Henrik |
OK, so it was the "T" bars that were recalled. Hmmm - then we just need someone familiar with the 2 different designs to take a look at my pictures and give us a verdict - oh Court ....  Ran into another few issues as well - more later. Henrik | ||
| Phillyblast |
Apparently I didn't get the RC of IIRC right | ||
| Henrik |
So - anyone notice something wrong in this picture  such as that there is no way the wheel is going to turn without shredding the speedo pick-up ... Well, turns out there was a good reason that the older Buells used counter sunk mounting bolts - if you don't you get what you see above. So that axes, at least for now my dual disk attempt. I haven't given up, but it'll take some additional work to get things to fit. Which of course leads to the question: then what? Well given my time frame (leaving for NC next Saturday), I'll have to revert to the old stock rotor, but do I use the PM caliper and Lyndall pads, knowing I'll mount the left side PM later and therefore have different wear on the two sides? Or do I use a Nissin caliper with sucky HH pads? And finally, the big question: Can I still use the ISR master cylinder, despite it being 17.5mm and really meant for two calipers? I did prep the old rotor tonight. Went over the swept area with 100 grit sand paper first and then coarse 3M sponge on an electric drill. It's now clean and shiny, and I did make sure the grain goes across the swept area, but it's still much smoother than the cross-hatch pattern on new rotors. Wonder if that'd be ok or if I need to try to create a coarser pattern? Oh, and that oil cooler - well the tube frame construction on the S2 is just different enough from the later model Tubers, that I can choose to have the hoses rub against the frame or the cooler lean/bounce against the cylinder fins, and in the end there is no way to mount it without interference, including between the mounting bracket and the primary cover. Yet another project over before it began. Not much closer to done than when I started 2-4 weeks ago. Henrik | ||
| Leftcoastal |
Henrik I built a tatty old superglide into presentable old superglide back in the early 90's, and with the mods I did to the front end, I no longer had room for the speedo drive. I ended up driving it from the rear wheel with a custom speedo cable. I used a drive unit off of an FL model to get the right ratio for the tire size, and to get the drive on the other side of the wheel. There's always a way! I haven't been able to wear out Lyndall pads - they are stubborn things, they insist on working better than anything I've ever tried, and they flat refuse to wear out! You could always do something silly like putting one of the 'worn' pads in the new, 2nd caliper when you install it, and so have one new and 1 almost new pad in each side. Oil coolers are overrated. I have yet to have a bike blow up due to hot oil. 35 years of hot oil! (wait...maybe that was 'air') AL (Message edited by leftcoastal on August 23, 2006) | ||
| Oldog |
Henrik: is the tranny case machined for the electronic one?, will the spurgin mount on the small tubes that point down further forward?  I have no idea of the official name of this part of the frame | ||
| Leftcoastal |
Dangle-framus? Stick-down tube? Motorconnecty thingamajigger? bug-splat collector? Jeez - I also have no idea. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Button head allens?? I still say countersink the holes. Here is my EBC's    | ||
| Smoke |
henrik, i can countersink the holes for you if you want or there should be a specialty machine shop local to you that can do it. then use the original buell screws. do both rotors to match. let me know if you would like me to do them. (free) tim @ arrow aviation co .com no spaces good luck, tim | ||
| Aaomy |
henrik,,, if ya need anything just shout... if ya need them countersunk or if you want small pocket to allow button heads to clear let me know.. im in jamestown ny.. the other end of the state but it shouldnt take too long to mail them back and forth?? if you want to take a long drive? like 6-8 hours.. you can run them out and take them back with you.. i will pm you my phone number if you want ... aaron | ||
| Henrik |
Wow, thanks for all the info suggestions and offers of help. I really appreciate that. As you may have read of last nights post I was just a *tad* frustrated. I really thought I'd gotten all the projects started in plenty of time - I guess I forgot the rule of "The 3 T's" ... Things Take Time But I'm better now  Oil cooler first; I know - not really necessary, except for the occasional hot summer day sitting it traffic in NYC - in which case the lack of air flow would severely limit the efficiency of the cooler. I could mount it on the front-frame-triangle-support-a-ma-bob, but I don't have one on the S2 . I'm installing an American Sport Bike frame brace there, but that's where the shock reservoir will live. Someone here had a very nice write-up of mounting an XB oil cooler on the front frame triangle of a Tuber. Just an idea for a winter project. Brake disks and bolts: Fireman, those disks aren't the "swept pattern" EBC rotors. Are they EBC (the blue buttons indicate they are)? Model? The carrier on your rotors also have a bit more thickness to them than the Braking rotors. It turns out there may be another slight problem with the Braking Rotors, so I'll probably have to postpone getting them to work. I'll need to do some more measuring tonight before I know for sure. If need be I'll certainly take one of you up on the offer of countersinking the bolts. I measured up the rotor carrier and the material is 6mm thick. The taper of the mounting bolts is 5mm "tall", which ought to leave 1mm of "meat" at the bottom of the countersink hole. I spoke to Al at American Sport Bike, who pointed out that all the stress on those bolts will be carried across the taper so it should work. I also ran into some trouble with throttle cable length last night. I was going to (finally) mount the Mikuni carb I've had on the shelf for some 4 years now. It's the "Easy Kit" from Mikuni and the new style carburator and the stock cables "should" work, they are however too long. With the adjusters dialed to "full long" with just a thread holding them on, there is still about 2/3" slack in the cables. Big Twin cables are supposedly a tad tighter fit, but they're also shorter in overall length and may not reach. Maybe I better get the old CV carb apart and start cleaning out the gunk Henrik (Message edited by Henrik on August 24, 2006) | ||
| Firemanjim |
That's odd,Henrik.I have an old and new style Mikuni on the S-2's and have no problem with cable fit on either.And no problem when I get replacements either.Did your stock ones not work?What side of carb are cables on?Pic? | ||
| Henrik |
Jim; the cables go to the side of the carb facing the front of the bike, which I believe should make it the late model, which ought to work with stock cables. I, at the same time, got a set of cables for the Mikuni, but they're obviously for the old style carb; one cable has a 90° elbow at the carb end - as well as the standard 2 45° bends at the throttle end. I have a picture at home. Will post when I get home. I ran it by Aaron, and he said he usually has to bend the bracket on the carb a tad to make it work. Mikuni apparently try to make a "one size fits all" carb, except it's made to fit the Big Twins, but can be farkled to work with stock Sportster cables as well. Maybe my cables are too old/stretched - although I doubt it. PM piston update: received the package today, and they'd sent me 1 - that's one of each piston instead of the 8 of each I'd asked for. Sigh. Got a hold of the same service person, who fortunately arranged for overnight shipping on their dime. Henrik | ||
| Oldog |
Sorry to hear that its a struggle Henrik | ||
| Henrik |
Thanks Jim, I appreciate that. But I think we all know (or at some point learn) that nothing other than the basic bolt-on projects are easy. Mix old bikes, attempt at changes not in the original design and aftermarket manufacturers, and you're pretty much guaranteed some "quirks." Sure would prefer it wasn't the case though So far no actual progress today, but I have more info to work with: PM pistons: I measured and compared the 3 pistons they sent me to the original pistons, and they're good. So those sizes and part numbers work. Now I just need more pistons  Mikuni carb/cables: Mikuni uses the same basic HSR42 for both Sportsters and Big Twins. The *only* difference is the bracket that holds the cable ends. On the Sportster the length of the ferrules/slotted tubes that hold the cable ends is about 1". On the Big Twin version those slotted tubes are about 1/2". Now take a wild guess at which one is on my Mikuni ...  I called Mikuni, and the above is the information they gave me. Their tech guy was cool though - they're sending me a Sportster style bracket via UPS. Should be here sometime next week ... Brake rotors: Did some final measuring on the rotors today and realized that the material thickness is different between the "arms" of the carrier and the center of the carrier where the bolts go. The center is only 4.5 - 5mm, so countersinking the bolts is a no-go. Back to the drawing board. Henrik | ||
| Henrik |
Aaomy - Aaron to the rescue! After more measuring tomorrow this will hopefully bring good news ... fingers crossed. Henrik | ||
| Phillyblast |
btw my "T" bars on the S2 are pre-recall. No "cut" just dimpled. Thanks for posting the question Henrik or I never would have bothered to check. I mean, it's not like I rode it cross-country or anything so I guess I shouldn't be worried | ||
| Henrik |
Philly; my bars are indeed post-recall (thanks Court!) The short version; dimple = good, no dimple = bad. The recalled bars were only cut and had no dimple showing above the clamp. The new bars were dimpled (as in the picture above) and then a section of the bar was sliced off before the welding. Henrik | ||
| Bomber |
Bolt-On = fill the welding tanks and lube the lathe ;-} | ||
| Grndskpr |
Philly; my bars are indeed post-recall (thanks Court!) Did you actually think i would send you pre recall bars Some credit please (i actaully asked prior to picking them up, but have been to busy to get on hear for any length of time, and the dealer is usually pretty good with these items) R | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Henrik, I had the same problem with my M2 and a Mikuni. I even had the "right" cable bracket. The cables were still too long. I made a spacer out of aluminum to shim the cable bracket out 1/4". Everything works great now. There are at least two different cable brackets for the Mikuni. As you can see below, the one on the right has longer ferrel sockets. Yours looks like the short version.  Here's where I put the shim. I don't have a picture of it but it's filed to match the profile of the bracket. I used a spring pin to take the place of the carb boss that fits in the slot on the bracket. It's on the bike now and tough to get a decent picture.  | ||
| Henrik |
Bomber; you got it Did you actually think i would send you pre recall bars Of course not Roger besides the set you sent me is my back-up set, going on the bike now for other reasons. It was just that all I remembered from the recall discussion was dimple good/cut bad. So when I found both I wanted to make sure. Although Court says the bars go "soft" before they actually come off, so there *might* be time to pull over ... Philly .... Thanks for the pictures Brad. What Mikuni is supposedly sending me is the bracket with the longer tubes. But if that still requires modification I *really* need to get the old CV carb cleaned up. PM piston update: Called today to get the tracking number for the overnight shipping ... that apparently didn't go out after all. So by now it's taken me over 2 weeks, 5 phone calls and some serious blood pressure elevation to accomplish absolutely nothing with those guys. I'm amazed at the incompetence - the tech guys seem nice enough, but the follow-through is obviously horrible. They offered to ship out today for Saturday delivery to my home - now watch them bugger up the shipping/billing info again and have the package delivered to my work tomorrow. Of course they don't generate and send emails w/ tracking information, and since they won't have a tracking # until late today ... well you get the picture. Henrik | ||
| Spiderman |
Hey Brad, I had to make a spacer too, do you have another one of those Buell mounts layin around?? | ||
| Spiderman |
Hey Brad, I had to make a spacer too, do you have another one of those Buell mounts layin around?? | ||
| Swampy |
For the brake rotor problem, Can the wheel hub mounting surface be cut down to mount the brake rotor more towards the center(inboard), yet leave the the hub area where the speedometer drive drive mounts alone? | ||
| Henrik |
Spidey; call Mikuni. their tech guy was very helpful and offered up the free bracket without coercion PM Update: I - of course - called to get the tracking number for the shipment, and good thing too. They had it set for overnight delivery ... for MONDAY!!! They did however manage to change the delivery address to my home addy, where there wouldn't be anyone to receive the package. Because I called they - supposedly - managed to catch the UPS truck and get the package out for Saturday delivery. We'll see. All in all an outstanding example of how *not* to manage your customers. Henrik | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Spidey, No, I got the one in the picture from Parts Unlimited, it's on the M2 as you can see below. Henrik, My memory was a bit foggy, I had to drill another hole for the spring pin. I hope you can see it in the pictures below. I also had to get a slightly longer bolt. Yes, I know I forgot to put the bracket bolt safety clip back on. It's in my tool chest awaiting the next time I pull the carb. Brad   Man, I gotta learn to type better.... (Message edited by bluzm2 on August 25, 2006) | ||
| Henrik |
Swampy; that's unfortunately not an option 'cause the brake caliper stays where it is. I did some more measuring tonight, and there is all of 2.2mm of total clearance inside the caliper when mounted with the rotor, so it wouldn't take much for the rotor to start scraping/hitting the inside of the caliper. If I move the rotor it'll hit the caliper. But Aaron had a killer suggestion for how this can work; countersink the bolts continue the countersink a tad into the wheel hub. He can apparently line up the mill so the countersink lines up perfectly with the bolt holes in the hub, and since there is plenty of thread in those holes, continuing the countersink a mm or two wouldn't cause any problems. Of course what I've now realized is, that the 2 rotors do not line up perfectly in the calipers: the right side rotor is hitting the outside wall of the caliper, the left side rotor is hitting the inside wall of the caliper. In other words, if I could shift the wheel with rotors 1.1mm towards the left of the bike the rotors would be perfectly centered. As far as I can see, the only way of doing that is removing 1.1 mm of material from the spacer part of the speedo pick-up. Now how to do that with basic hand tools, a belt sander and a few other bits ... I don't know. Brad; thanks for the pictures. I'm getting the sense that even with the bracket Mikuni is sending me I'll have more work to do. Looks like the CV is going back on for this trip. PM update: from the tracking number it looks like PM did indeed ship regular overnight, i.e. no Saturday delivery. "Good" news is they *did* change the shipping address, so UPS will attempt home delivery when I'm not home. Henrik | ||
| Ptown |
Hendrik With the free play problem you are having on you throttle cable, why dont you just tap a thread inside it and make a adjustable fitting inside it, where the cable goes trough and you can adjust the free play away. Same as the older bikes clutch cable or bicycle brake cables have on. A slot on the one side where the cable slides through before turning it into the bracket for finer setting |
