| Author | Message | ||
     Hippyjoe |
I'm going to replace the primary tensioner on my early '00 M2. Bike has 11.2k miles. While I'm in there I figure I'll replace the clutch spring with something that won't come unglued.  1. Besides the spring itself, are there any other parts I should replace while I'm in there? Clips or other small parts prone to failure? 2. What is the preferred part to replace the spring with? i.e. can I buy 2 steels and a fiber individually from Harley? Or should I go with an aftermarket spring plate? I like my stock clutch and I'd like to keep it working that way. I also don't want the clutch spring to fail. So I want to replace the spring with whatever will give me the closest to stock, trouble-free performance. I don't want to have to go back in to the primary at all, after this job, if possible. I'll have the spring compressor on hand, as well as the service manual and parts cat, a new gasket, tensioner, and a bottle of Harley primary oil. I want to have the spring replacement parts on hand as well, to minimize down time. Any advice is appreciated. | ||
| José_quiñones |
1. You might want to get the new 06 clutch diaphragm spring, for a lighter clutch pull when used in conjunction with the new Formula+ tranny fluid. 2. 2 steel plates and a friction plate will do the job, you can use HD parts, they do sell them individually, $8 for the plate, $23 or so for the friction plate if I recall. You will notice a smaller "friction/engagement zone" without that spring, but you get used to it. Have fun. | ||
| Ragnagwar |
I went with the "Energy One" clutch pack, and am very pleased with the results. "Rags" | ||
| Ragnagwar |
"Hippyjoe" While you're in the primary check the "Retaining Ring" for the detent plate on the shift drum, the "Stator" wires where they run under the metal mounting plate, and make sure you have the updated "Primary Chain Adjuster". "Rags" | ||
| Hippyjoe |
José--I was thinking of that. I have the P/N's for the plates. Do you have the P/N for the '06 spring? Rags--I'm going in to replace the tensioner. I won't be pulling the clutch basket, so no detent plate check this time. Unless someone makes an improved part? Can I see the stator wires w/o pulling the clutch shell? | ||
| Timconnly |
has any body try'd this hydraulic main street clutch by drag specialties.The write up in bike works looked good they have them for all sportsters so 1 must fit my 97 m2 not that the pull is to much now, but not relaxing ( I ride to relax ) any info would make my day. Thanks | ||
| Ragnagwar |
"Hippyjoe" You can easily see the wires with the primary cover off. Just check that the little steel plate they run under is not chafing the insulation. As far as the clip and detent plate, I would do my best to at least try and check it out with a mirror. If the pins are "walking" out of your shift drum the detent plate will not run true and eventually break the retainer. Causes a mess and you'll be taking it apart again. "Rags" | ||
| Hippyjoe |
Thanks! I'll be sure to have a look when it's apart. This bike was owned by a "little old man who only rode to church on Sundays." Bike came w/Jesus stickers and all. The belt and chain have been run a little loose, I don't think this bike has ever pulled a wheelie. At 11k miles I'm thinking the trans is in pretty good shape. These sporty clutches are pretty crazy. Now I understand, there's a diaphragm spring on the outside, which can be replaced with an '06. And the problem part is the spring plate in the middle of the clutch pack, which should be replaced w/2 fibers and a steel. Not to mention all the little clips, springs, etc. in the parts cat. So I appreciate all the advice that fills in the gaps in the service manual. Tom--I think Al at American Sport Bike is the guy to talk to on hydraulics. There is a thread in the KV where I think the subject comes up that sporty and buell clutch cables are different lengths, something to keep in mind if you're going to hydraulic lines. | ||
| Hippyjoe |
Update--part# for the Uly diaphragm spring is 37934-06. Cost 26 bucks at markup from my local hi$ dealer. Part# for the Formula+ is 99851-05. In case anyone is wondering. | ||
| Hippyjoe |
Also, to answer my first question, the SM calls for a new snap ring to hold in the spring retainer, the last outboard snap ring that holds the clutch pack together. It's the one you use the spring compressor tool to remove & install. Part# in the book is 37909-90, although the part I got from Harley with that# is too small. Still in the process of tracking down the right one. | ||
| Henrik |
So Joe, the Uly diaphragm spring is a good fit for tuber clutches? Henrik | ||
| Hippyjoe |
Hey, Henrik. Yep, it fit right in there.  Here she is in all her glory, along with the spiffy new snap ring holding her in place. The two white boxes up top ID the spring. Sorry for the glare. I also replaced the spring plate inside the clutch pack with two steels and a fiber. Everything fit together just fine. I had to tighten the diaphragm down all the way--a tight fit--but the snap ring popped right into place. I'll get it buttoned up tonight and log in with a ride report. | ||
| Hippyjoe |
Oh yeah--the part number for the snap ring was different from my parts catalog. Apparently the Harley dealer's computer lists two numbers for the '00 M2. 37909-90 and 37908-90. Took me two trips to the dealer to get the right one. Next time I replace a part I'm taking the old one with me. Kind of sucks if you like lining up everything beforehand. | ||
| Henrik |
Joe; glad you got it worked out. Please post a quick word when you've taken it for a spin. I'd be interested to hear the verdict. - Is the spring strong enough to keep the clutch from slipping? - any noticeable difference in clutch pull? Thanks Henrik | ||
| Hippyjoe |
Put about 30 miles on it today in medium traffic and outskirts cruising. No slipping, no problems. So far I've only given it torque, I'll wait until the new trans fluid has soaked in some more before applying horsepower. Bike is a stock M2 except for ignition, intake, exhaust. I've got some Lightning cams to go in there, and I don't anticipate any slippage. Feel at the lever... bike on the stand, it feels like pull is reduced around 18-20%. Riding it feels more like a 25-30% reduction. Definitely easier. Definitely worth the 26 bucks, not to mention getting to upgrade the other parts at the same time. | ||
| Henrik |
Cool. Thanks Joe. Time to call DaveS ... again  Henrik | ||
| Hippyjoe |
You might well be able to get that spring for less than 26 bucks. My dealership is notorious for its markup. Logged another 30 miles today, no problems. I notice 2 differences, besides the softer lever. One is, as José said, the engagement zone changes... although mine seemed to increase. Might be able to address this by adjusting the ramp position. The other thing is, neutral is now a bit harder to find from first. Still very easy to catch from second, no change there. Which could be a good thing, make me pay closer attention to what gear I'm in. On the other hand I haven't missed a shift. Very happy with this setup. | ||
| Hippyjoe |
Here is a look at the two springs for comparison. Blue box is the factory M2. Double white is the Uly spring.  AIRC they were the same thickness; the softer flex must come from the larger cutaways. | ||
| Hippyjoe |
Here are the parts I replaced, in case anyone is comtemplating this job and wants to line everything up first to avoid down time.  There were also 3 o-rings: drain plug, clutch cable at the primary cover, and the clutch cover quad seal. On the primary adjuster, supposedly "early" 2000 M2's from 6/00-back had the weak ones. My bike was born on 4/00, and sure enough...  If anyone wants any of the parts shown, or any part #'s not already mentioned in the thread, ping me and I'll get them to you. Otherwise I'll donate them to a local artist. | ||
| Hippyjoe |
Final update on this setup: I've got over 300 miles on it now. I've got about 200 miles on it with the new Lightning cams. No slipping, no problems. I don't pull wheelies, burnouts, etc. I do accelerate vigorously on interstate on-ramps--speed limit is 75 here--and the clutch works fine. I set it up a little looser (1/2 turn out on the screw and a little extra cable slack) and it's what I would call a perfect clutch. It won't work with the easy-pull clutch extension. I think it's the extra plates in the clutch pack that push the ramp out just far enough that the extension hangs up on the inside of the cover. I think this setup is superior to the ez-pull. It reduces pressure on the clutch pack itself, which can't hurt longevity. It feels a little harder to pull on the stand, but my hand has become tired using the ez pull. It hasn't been tired using the Uly spring setup. | ||
| Hippyjoe |
I also installed the same parts on an S2T and the owner is very happy with the results. |
