Author |
Message |
Swampy
| Posted on Wednesday, July 26, 2006 - 10:49 pm: |
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If you have an arc welder you can place a nut over the remainder of the stud and weld it to the stud. With a little practice you learn to get the stud going and fill the nut. When I have a stuck anything I heat it with a propane torch and while it is cooling I melt bee's wax on the part. The Bee's wax wicks into the threads and there is something in the wax that lubricates the whole mess no matter how rested it is. Ask me where I get the Bee's wax from.... If you have to pull the head, You might as well get some valve springs that will be able to take the high lift camshafts that you are going to put into the engine later on.... |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 12:24 am: |
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Yet another way to remove a broken stud! So...where do you get the bee's wax? Or is it none of my ..........! |
Buellistic
| Posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 09:23 am: |
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From the BEE KEEPER !!! |
Swampy
| Posted on Thursday, July 27, 2006 - 11:09 pm: |
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Bee keepers.... I see they sell ear candles at health food shops. Probably the same thing. I would send you guys some if I could get the parts list needed to convert the Blast to chain drive. |
88m
| Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 05:05 pm: |
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well i got it all apart and i am taking it to the shop tomorrow. but now i need to get the piston off. how do i remove the circlip? i haven't really tried it yet and the manual just shows it with a tool i dont have. |
88m
| Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 06:05 pm: |
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never mind i got it out. i was just being a puss, didnt want to brake anything. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Friday, July 28, 2006 - 11:46 pm: |
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Are you going to get a new piston? If so, get a high compression piston. Maybe change the valve springs too? I mean, you've already got it apart!! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, July 29, 2006 - 12:03 am: |
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Concur! |
Xgecko
| Posted on Saturday, July 29, 2006 - 12:08 am: |
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what's the recomendation for a hi comp piston? Wiseco or is there something better |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, July 29, 2006 - 12:29 am: |
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Wisco is all I've heard of - I bet there must be others - maybe? GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, July 29, 2006 - 01:39 am: |
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Hurricane and I'm sure there are others. |
88m
| Posted on Saturday, July 29, 2006 - 03:25 am: |
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i want to do more since its apart but i dont even have the simple mods done yet. but in a few months the wife is going to be riding the blast. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, July 29, 2006 - 12:18 pm: |
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You mean Millinium uses a piston for a Blast not made by Axtell? Also - Eric is right - while its all apart I would upgrade it as well - the parts aren't that much all things considered - especially for the potential and added reliability. Piston, rings, better stepped guides, seals and heavier duty springs - would leave you with a faster, more durable Blast. Of course some rejetting would be involved - usually down a bit on the main and put the primary at 45. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
88m
| Posted on Tuesday, August 01, 2006 - 08:18 pm: |
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well i am still waiting on the head but had a shop work on the cylinder and piston. i am getting a new rear tire while i am waiting too. but like everyone said, while its apart i am thinking about a cam. this is my first motorcycle engine tear down, so do i need any extra tool for the cam? is it an in and out deal? ps thx for all the help. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Tuesday, August 01, 2006 - 08:42 pm: |
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In & out, no special tools except a torque wrench, unless you go for something radical. Just take a picture of the cam alignment marks before you pull them out. That will avoid any guessing later. Cams must go in before you put the head back on (unless you change to collapsible pushrod tubes and adjustable pushrods) |
Swampy
| Posted on Wednesday, August 02, 2006 - 04:57 pm: |
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88m, Get the bronze oil pump drive gear and have that installed when you do the cams. It will save you having to do it later. You can install different cams without having to pull the head, you just have to pull the rocker box. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, August 02, 2006 - 07:23 pm: |
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Oil pump drive gear part # 26391-06 just dont put the bike back together without changing the cams and have to pull it apart again!!! Hey Swampy: Did you help out crazygirl with the ignition module testing procedure? After all you are the isolator and ignition module replacement king! |
Swampy
| Posted on Wednesday, August 02, 2006 - 10:31 pm: |
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Ha, Ha! I don't know she hasn't posted. Am I coming off as a know-it-all? (Just ask my wife) I can do that every once and a while, I don't want to piss anyone off...... I am in total agreement...do it once, while you are in there |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, August 02, 2006 - 10:40 pm: |
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Crazygirl posted at the "Running problem on 2000 Blast" thread (above). I dont remember where you posted your ignition module test procedure. No, you're not coming off as a knowitall. It just seems to me like you've done more isolators and modules than anyone! |
Swampy
| Posted on Wednesday, August 02, 2006 - 11:09 pm: |
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Two Blasts + Two wild little boys trying to break them= me very busy with the wrench. The ignition module test proceedure? After all else fails replace it. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, August 18, 2006 - 12:12 am: |
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OK - heres the problem - I was putting on the new intake - everything went fine - cruising down the coast watching the sunset and noticing no hicups - intake correctly put on. I accelerate from the light, hit the rev limiter and shift and the bike starts reving to the max with no help from me - I shut her down and coast over - as soon as the bike is turned on it revs to the max shutting itself down on the limmiter - the throttle cables are functional and not binding or stuck - what happened? the gate in the carb is all the way down - cv40 - any ideas on what to do to get a start on fixing this? GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Vortec57
| Posted on Friday, August 18, 2006 - 12:32 am: |
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EZ it's the curse. Mine won't run, your's only goes wide open. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, August 18, 2006 - 12:37 am: |
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I'll get it worked out - I just need to know where to start - sigh - GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Vortec57
| Posted on Friday, August 18, 2006 - 01:16 am: |
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When my quad did that it was because the slider had frozen at WOT. If the gate and slider are working correctly I can't say I have a clue what to do. Pretty odd. |
Sarodude
| Posted on Friday, August 18, 2006 - 10:04 am: |
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EZ- What does the butterfly look like? -Saro |
Swampy
| Posted on Friday, August 18, 2006 - 10:19 am: |
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Check that the butterfly is shut, that would be the only thing. The slide would be all the way down if the engine is off, then open up when its running according to the air passing the venturi. Is the butterfly even on the throttle shaft? You have to be getting air and fuel from somewhere..... |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, August 18, 2006 - 11:09 am: |
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Somethings stuck - I tried again this morning and nothing unstuck - the butterfly is all the way down. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Sarodude
| Posted on Friday, August 18, 2006 - 11:11 am: |
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I'm way with Swampy on this. The butterfly is chipped, broken, loose, GONE - something like that. -Saro |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, August 18, 2006 - 11:28 am: |
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the buterfly is up, the vacuum slide is all the way down - will check this evening - maybe the buterfly is stuck? GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Blake
| Posted on Friday, August 18, 2006 - 01:21 pm: |
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Your throttle/butterfly valve is stuck open. Hammer time? KIDDING! (kind of) |