| Author | Message | ||
     Ammoxb9r |
So My '03 xb9r has the racing "package" on it and i have a total of 12500 miles. I am going to change my oil this week and i am sick of paying the high prices for the HD name of oil and filter. What is a suitable substitute for the oil, and does anyone make a filter for the xb9r besides HD? I'd like to get it all done before this weekend, there is a 'mayors ride' in terre haute that i want to partake in. at the end of the ride they let us go "all out" on a 10, 000 ft long runway at the airport. Thanks for any help. | ||
| Blake |
Any good name-brand xxW50 synthetic engine oil is fine. Most auto parts stores should be able to cross reference the oil filter for you. | ||
| Altima02 |
Filter: Walmart: STP 4967 AC delco: UPF 1233 Mobil 1 M1-103 Bosch 3311 They are the exact filters used on many Nissans. If you forgot the number and get to the store, just look up a Nissan SR20 engine, they are the same!  I know because I use the same filter for all 3 of my vehicles! How convenient. | ||
| Alchemy |
Help, my torx tool is slipping on the T27 bolts on the chin spoiler on my Uly. Any clever suggestions out there to help me out? Bolt is recessed so hard to get access. I have been using a T27 socket and a ratchet. Would a T-handle have any advantages. It is that dang thread sealer that seems to be the problem. The bolt was about 2 turns out when it bound up and that tool started slipping. Now I am afraid the bolt is nearly shot given the binding from the thread sealer. | ||
| Blake |
Heat? Work it back in and out and in? WD-40? Use a small hammer to tap the bit in so it is 100% firmly seated into the fastener head? Impact wrench? All stuff that has worked for me in the past, usually in various combinations. | ||
| Jackbequick |
When you lose the "grip" or drive on a Torx fastener it is usually because the rounded corners in the bottom of the Torx recess are "ejecting" the Torx bit. The Torx bit may also have some slightly rounded corners on it that contribute to the problem. They combine to round off all the drive points. Those two factors are further complicated when the driver bit is not perfectly aligned with the centerline of the fastener. When that happens the corners of the bit start gouging little chunks of metal out of the Torx recess in the screw and the beginning of the end is near. For use in desperate "last chance" attempts to remove a Torx fastener with a "deteriorated" or damaged Torx socket, I have a few cheap Torx bits that I got a Home Depot. I ground the ends of these bits slightly to get the ends flat and so that the corners at the end are not rounded at all. To use the bits that are ground flat, I put them in a 1/4" socket in a 3/8" drive ratchet extension, seat them carefully in the Torx socket making sure that the bit is perfectly aligned with the fastener, and give the extension a couple of taps with a hammer. This seats them against the bottom of the recess and knocks down any burrs. Then put the ratchet on, unscrew the offending fastener, and throw it away. If you keep screwing with it or try to use it you will eventually wind up having to drill it out to remove it. I don't know why Torx fasteners came into being, they no better than an Allen screw and certainly more troublesome. Jack | ||
| Alchemy |
Tried heat via a soldering iron (150 watt) but not a lot of help with the thread sealant. Suspect since the nut is part of the muffler that it may be heat tolerant in the range of the soldering iron temperature. Tried several Torx bits but no help. I did not try to grind a torx bit flat but that might have helped at first. I finally got the torx bolt out by using a reduced diameter cutting wheel on a dremel tool. Carefully cut a slot in bolt head and drove it in with a flat blade screwdriver. Added some PB Blaster (super WD 40) and worked the bolt and I finally could back it out. I did damage the chin spoiler a little with the dremel tool but it got the bolt out. I have ordered replacement torx bolts from the helpful DaveS. There is also the option of finding a better bolt for this application. I have at least 2 I will need to replace. Engine oil change completed. Not much metal on the magnetic plug. Next is crankcase oil change. I note some curious comments about the washer on the clutch inspection cover. I misread the comments on page 87 to mean remove the washers from the screws (not what it means). When I took the cover off I found the washers are captured so they are not coming off. Read the instructions again and saw my misread. Lots of fine metal in the oil and on the magnetic plug. Thanks for the comments and help. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Takes quite a bit of heat to defeat Loctite, about 700F/370C. You have to get the heat down where the threads are. The flat end on a Torx bit can work, but you have to watch it when you use it. If you are not dead straight, you can see it gouging little pieces out of the Torx socket as the angle turns the sharp corners on the bit into little cutters. The tubers used a rubber quad ring (square O-ring) for a seal under the clutch cover. I guess the XBs use the washers with the captive rubber seals instead? If so, those are intended to be replaced each time they are removed. That is a dry sump engine, if it has been setting a while and you don't give it a good long warm up, you'll have some oil in the crankcase that won't get drained, maybe even as much as a quart or so. That oil adds itself to the new oil, makes it dirty, and can even create a badly over filled oil tank with the attendant horrors of a blown off filler cap and everything in the area freshly oiled. Jack | ||
| Alchemy |
The XB has a screw with a captive flat washer and a gasket. I like captive washers. They recommend the gasket be replaced at each oil change but I will not change the gasket until I get to the 1,000 mile change. Gasket looked fine and no leaks. It seems the key is to have spare torx machine screws around to replace or to change the hardware to something a little more robust for repeated removals. I wonder if I could saw a slot on the new torx before I install them.... just in case<grin>. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Okay, the clutch cover on my FXD uses screws with non-captive metal washers with a rubber seal bonded to them. Those are the one time use washers I was talking about. You just gave me an idea for the perfect fastener. It is a slotted screw with superimposed Phillips head screw slots and in the bottom of the Phillips head recess is a Torx socket. Jack | ||
| Alchemy |
Sounds great. Send me a box of 100 in assorted sizes<grin>. I will be happy to evaluate them and write a review. I am obviously an experienced tester at this point.  | ||
| Road_thing |
Damn these torx head bolts Invention of the devil I always strip them Ah, the haiku page... rt | ||
| Hootowl |
With torx it's more fuiku than haiku. I replace them with hex every chance I get. |
