| Author | Message | ||
     Rieguy187 |
04 XB12S 2200 miles this is what happend today. I don't know if the first picture the piece is cast like that or is it actually broken? Is this a common problem? any cause? Any suggestions for sourcing parts besides the dealer? Will a XB9 cover works then I can get a black one?    | ||
| Hogs |
What the heck is this??? I just took the wifes 2005 xb 12 s cg into the shop for the Same plm. This picture looks like hers 100 percent?? Is this a another plm. causing this or just bad metal??? Dealer fixed with new primary BUT will it happened again?? Glad this came up and NOW I can show it to the dealer as they said I must of broke it taken it off.. Thanks Chris | ||
| Hogs |
oh btw that part is cast that way as far as I can tell,Thats not the plm as far as what that looks lokie Unless being cast that way has some unknown effect,But since I seen ur post,This must be something that will happened to these covers???? | ||
| Hogs |
Anyone else with this plm.?? | ||
| Buellisti |
Not real common, but this has happened to several of us with an XB12. My dealer replaced it under warranty after a bit of a tussle with the warranty person at the factory. I was at nearly 15,000 miles. Buell either received a shipment of bad castings or the stouter clutch springs place too great a load on that shoulder as it does seem to affect only 12s and not the 9s. An XB9 cover is identical except for the finish. I've been thinking about buying an extra to have on hand. When you replace the primary cover, it is also an ideal time to replace the chain tensioner block as the blocks on early 12s were a bit too soft an wore quickly. | ||
| Jkhawaii |
dose the clutch release pull on the primary cover?! what were the symptoms of the broken cover? | ||
| Hogs |
I think you will see this show up more in time to come... | ||
| Jackbequick |
Jason, I was trying to figure that out too. The primary cover on the XB's is different than the tubers. If the clutches are otherwise the same, on the XB it looks like the actuator is just resting in the cavity in the primary cover and kept from rotating by the tab resting in the notch. It would be in light contact with the part where break is but there should not be any load there. When the clutch lever is pulled forward, the balls climb to the shallower parts of the grooves they rest in and that forces the two ramps (the black and silver parts in the photo above) a little further apart. All the forces should be between the black and silver ramps and the load on the primary cover should not change. The black ramp, resting against the primary cover, can't move inwards so the outer ramp would move outward, exert a pull on the adjusting screw, pulling the pressure plate/diaphram spring away from the friction plates. One possibility might be if the clutch adjuster screw were overtightened (not backed off 1/8th turn). In that case, when the clutch lever was pulled and and the pressure plate/diaphram spring reached the limit of its travel, if the ramps moved any further apart the the lower ramp would be forced in towards the bottom of the cavity. That might overload that part where the break is seen. Not backing the adjuster screw off would also start the process of disengaging the clutch and if the screw was turned CCW far enough (several turns or more?), the clutch would probably slip. And it would put a constant pulling load on the bearing the adjustment screw mounts in and could lead to its failure. So it might be that an improperly adjusted clutch adjustment screw could overload that area of the primary cover. The secret to avoiding it would be in following the steps something like were in the M2 SM. I'm guessing here, I don't have a XB service manual, but it would be something like: 1 - Slack the clutch lever freeplay to make the lever floppy/take all the load off of the lever on the ramp, 2 - Adjust the clutch adustment screw (CCW down to a touch, then CW (backed off) 1/8th turn. Then put the lock nut, spring, and cover back. 3 - Adjust the lever freeplay until cable ferrule can only be pulled away from the perch 1/16" or 1/8" with a firm pull. It is probably a good idea to take all the lever freeplay out and give the clutch lever a few full pulls to seat the clutch before doing each adjustment (but make sure to slack the cable after you do that). Jack | ||
| Rieguy187 |
I talk to alot more people since this happened to me and everyone says that design is bullit proof and the cable had to have been to tight. I just had bought the bike so hopefully now that I have adjusted it correctly no more problems. | ||
| Buellisti |
A too tight cable will cause the clutch to slip or fail to engage. It would not damage the shoulder in the pocket. |
