| Author | Message | ||
     Jetbuilder |
I am having a problem my clutch is moving at least it seems to be at the cable but will not disengage. Ie. I pull in the clutch and the bike still drives,and while driving it is hard to shift. Red | ||
| Jlnance |
How much free play do you have in the handle? | ||
| Jetbuilder |
It is within Tolerances I am able to shift gears now where as last night it was stuck in 3rd. However when the clutch is pulled in the wheel still has power to the point of stalling if the rear brake is held. Red | ||
| Jackbequick |
Sounds like something has broken, an adjustment changed, or something is packing up the plates (like a failed spring plate). If you have the normal amount of pull at the lever (i.e., the lever is not floppy or loose at the bar), I'd pull the derby cover. In there, watch to see if the clutch actuator arm (the part the cable pulls) is moving normally when you pull the lever. It should move forward 1/2" or so and you should see some movment in the clutch basket. If that looks normal, check the clutch adjusting screw. Remove the spring and locking nut and note the angle of the screw driver slot. Now you can turn the adjusting screw a small amount to see if it is adjusted right. If you turn it counter clockwise (CCW) about 1/8th to 1/4 turn, you should feel a slight increase in resistance when the adjusting nut hits the bottom of the cavity. See below if this was not the case. From the point of slight resistance, backing it off (CW) 1/8th turn would be the correct adjustment for the adjusting screw. That lifts the adjusting nut just slightly off the bottom of the cavity (taking the load off of the bearing the adjusting is mounted in). If everything was normal in your clutch, it should also put the screw back about where you found it. The new position may vary a little because your new adjustment compensates for any wear that accumulated since the last adjustment. That tells you that the adjusting screw was properly adjusted. You can also check the condition of the bearing the adjusting screw mounts in. If you turn the adjusting screw clockwise (CW) it should turn freely and the adjusting nut will start backing out of the cavity in the actuator. If the bearing had failed, it would not turn freely and smoothly, and it would probably have some in and out play if you pulled and pushed the end of the screw. If the screw was under some load when you turned it CCW (there was not the 1/8th to 1/4 turn of freeplay), it may be that your spring plate failed and the bits and pieces are jammed in the clutch plates taking up the normal freeplay. That could cause the failure to disengage that you are having. Pulling the primary cover would probably be the quickest way to confirm a spring plate failure. There will normally be some bits and pieces of metal from the spring plate in the bottom of the primary. There have been a couple of recent threads on clutch problems and replacing failed spring plates, those will give you some background on fixing this yourself. If you're going to put things back and try it again, you'll have to re-do the adjusting screw adjustment, but when you do that, make sure you back off the clutch lever freeplay adjuster (in the middle of the clutch cable sheath) before you to it. Then adjust the lever freeplay as the last step. Jack | ||
| Jetbuilder |
Thanks I appreciate it. I checked the actuator plate today it does move as it should but I did not check the adj. I ran out of time. I will check the Adj screw and see if it moves freely. I cant remove the primary cover as this will be a Warranty repair. Red | ||
| Odinbueller |
Hey Red! Check your clutch adjustment first. If that's within spec, then your throwout bearing may be on its way out. Could also be the ramp assembly, but that is usually on really high mileage bikes. Hope this helps! Chris | ||
| Jackbequick |
Okay, having a warranty could be a good thing on something like this. If you check the adjusting screw, its a good idea to back the lever freeplay/cable length adjuster off first. That way the cable pulling a little on the one end won't affect anything when you check the adjustment on the other end. Setting the lever freeplay is the last adjustment and is pretty simple if you're not familiar with how to do it. Jack | ||
| Bud |
what kinda gear oil your using ? had a binding clutch 2x with redline oil, slurry building up between the diagramspring en the preasure plate | ||
| Ryker77 |
"You can also check the condition of the bearing the adjusting screw mounts in. If you turn the adjusting screw clockwise (CW) it should turn freely and the adjusting nut will start backing out of the cavity in the actuator. If the bearing had failed, it would not turn freely and smoothly, and it would probably have some in and out play if you pulled and pushed the end of the screw. " That should be in the manual. |
