| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
Berki: The extra link might help the front isolator last longer. Since all 2001 later mounts are the same as the 2000 model with the the extra link, I do wonder if the elimination of the extra link might have anything to do with bolt or mount or isolator failure in later models? Are we back on topic Swampy?  (Message edited by gearheaderiko on July 07, 2006) | ||
| Jprovo |
Red-headed stepchild... | ||
| Ezblast |
A stepchild of a stepchild - lol - my red 2000 isolator lasted till 16,000 with a world of abuse and my black 2001 lasted till 13000. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Oh.... a 'ginger'. Hadnt heard the red headed stepchild reference before (or maybe forgot?). | ||
| Ezblast |
Thats right Erik - I owe you a Stepchild patch - send me your address.  GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Court |
Light keeper: Very well written and pretty much summarizes what I have found over the years. If I were getting ready to buy a new Buell, I'd do just what I did with the Mercedes and Ford I bought in May, I'd spend some time in the dealership, get to known and become known. It's your big chance to communicate your expectations. I let'em know well in advance what I expected in terms of price and future service. I made it easy for them to exceed my expectations; they have splendidly. Good on you I say. Keep up the good work. | ||
| Swampy |
Har'!, Har'! | ||
| Jlnance |
EZ - Can you put some red hair on the top of those letters? | ||
| Ezblast |
Sorry - this is an actual patch that was designed and made in limited production by Glitch - that and the 3%  Now there is a big discussion about isolators here - http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/4062/203825.html?1151938825 GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You da man EZ! (iso topic) When do you find time to sleep or work on your bikes? Speaking of motor mounts (and by motor mounts I mean patches) I had a patch made up identical to the Buell patch and it cost $6! | ||
| Buellboy492 |
Fourth Broken motor mount bolt. I hate to say I am getting profecient with the broken screw extractor. The one that has broken the last three times is the hard to get at one- I have had to remove the tank, intake, exhaust, the "do not remove" isolator bracket, and the "ball" joints in order to move the motor over enough to get a drill bit into the broken bolt. There are two brackets that keep the gas tank from rubbing the cylinder head, they have to come off too. Ok, so what is making them break? The rubber isolator biscuit appears intact, no tears or cracks. Is there anything to break on the rear isolator? It is not easy to inspect as far as I can see. What to check while I wait for parts? Any advice appreciated. Thanks, everyone! | ||
| Swampy |
That reminds me, I ordered bolts from Daves and didn't get them yet. BuellBoy492...what bolts are you putting in? The stock ones? Are the stock ones grade 8? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Buellboy: Are you torquing it 'by the book'? Live down a bad dirt road? Lots of wheelies and stoppies? I would take a good look at the rear mount (not much to see) as well as making sure the 2 engine tie bars are of equal length and havent been changed from their factory setting. 4 broken bolts is crazy! I wonder if adding the 2000 model year engine tie bar link might help the situation. | ||
| Jprovo |
Check the tie bars for wear, and make sure that the rear one is tight. I'd replace the rear engine mount, but it's a pain to get to and you essentially have to split the motorcycle in half to get to replace it. It is a rubber and steel saddwich, so it will eventually wear out. I'm going to replace mine at 50,000 miles. (of course, I'm going to esentially pull the bike apart then, so it's not that bid a deal.) | ||
| Buellboy492 |
Swampy, Yes, the factory bolts are grade 8. They have 6 lines on the head at each point. Wild Boar may now have this item in stock. Thanks for the tips, I have not adjusted the tie rod ends, and there is no play that I can induce by pushing or pulling on the cylinder head. The rear isolator is not very visible. But since I must remove most of the other stuff anyway, maybe I can get at the rear isolator for inspection. I am beginning to suspect the big rubber isolator. I can remove the bracket from the frame, since the bolts that sheared off have to come out anyway. Then I will remove the big allen bolt that goes through the bisquit to inspect the inside surface of the bisquit. As much as I hate having to take the car, I can say it is a newfound pleasure to work on this bike. I have never enjoyed this sort of mechanical challenge before. | ||
| Buellboy492 |
Oh yeah- I live on pavement. I don't think I am hard on it. I have never done a wheelie or a stoppie. Too scared. I have hit the rev limiter once in the last 2 years. I do occasionally see how fast top speed is, but only briefly. I like 60 to 70mph. I get 60 to 70mpg, I assume I would get less if I romped on it more. | ||
| Swampy |
Buellboy492, There are pictures of a bad isolator somewhere on the forum. You can tell right away if it is bad as the big flat washer on top of the isolator will be resting on the isolator itself. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Buellboy: I didnt think you were abusing it, but I just wanted to eliminate any wild possibilities. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on July 12, 2006) | ||
| Buellboy492 |
Correction on the bolt grade. There is a line on each point of the head of the bolt, plus a little triangle. My meager refrence material research indicated this may be a hardened bolt, but that is all I know. I still think this is grade 8, though. I could find nothing wrong with the isolator. I semi-polished the bracket as long as I had it off. I do think it looks nice. I will carefully torque all fasteners in a couple of days as I will be working until then. | ||
| Buellboy492 |
All back together. We'll see how long this set lasts, then I may have to seek competent Buell Blast expertise. Not that you guys aren't competent- I mean me! | ||
| Naustin |
My front isolator is torn. The bolts all seem to be intact at this point. I have no idea how long its been like this. Dealer quoted me $150 for the part and labor. Does that sound about right? What are the odds the new one will tear again right away? | ||
| Ezblast |
If they do it right - you'll be fine for plenty of miles - the part though is only like 12 bucks - if they screw it up - it will tear within 50 miles - a guy at home can do it in 4 hours and so they say they can do it in two - about right. If it tears right away - the redo should be free, and if they have to redo, tell them to tighten the main bolt from the bottom and then when about 2 1/2threads are showing through the top nut, then torque to speck from top. If you do it all from the top the rubber will twist and then tear - experience - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on July 17, 2006) | ||
| Naustin |
Good info... Thanks! Do you have a part number for that isolator? nick (Message edited by naustin on July 17, 2006) | ||
| Ezblast |
L0501.T | ||
| Buellboy492 |
Broke another one. This one lasted 300 miles. I ride about 10 miles a day, 5 days a week. I was just thinking today how much I love my Blast... Now I miss my old Hondas. I have enlisted a shop owner who runs a Harley performance shop. He is going to do his best, calling his Buell performance mechanic friends. But in the meantime- I need my bike and have dropped the motor and drilled it out again. Good thing I bought an extra bolt last time. | ||
| Swampy |
Did you break a bolt that holds the "Do Not Remove" bracket on? I have two extras I keep on hand. I am assuming you are using the proper proceedure for installing them? I went to a nut and bolt distributor for replacements for the Big Kids Blast and they are working fine, probably have a couple of thousand miles on them. | ||
| Buellboy492 |
I follow, to the best of my ability, the manual directions. Including using Buell bolts, a drop of oil on the new washers, craftsman torque wrench to 60ft/lb, back one turn and torque to 60ft/lb.. the Buell bolts come with threadlocker on them. Does the front bottom tie rod have washers where it attaches to the frame? Mine does not, and even torquing to 30ft/lbs bends the frame tabs. If it was a tighter fit, like with washers, it seems like it wouldn't squash. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, its supposed to have washers in there and shouldnt squash down to fit. Frame tabs arent supposed to bend. There must be something thats not right with your Blast (obvious statement). Maybe you might want to consider adding the extra 2000 model year upper tie bar. I would also check the to make sure your tiebars are the same length. Overall length could be 5 7/8" and they both should match. Are all the engine mounts are tight? 300 miles is nuts. | ||
| Buellboy492 |
Well, maybe the missing washers could be part of the problem. I have never adjusted the tie rods, they don't wander out of adjustment, do they? There is an upper tie bar in the rear, a lower tie rod in the front. Somebody direct me to a picture of the year 2000 extra tie bar. I am going to re-assemble the engine tonight, with washers between the tie rod ends and the frame tabs. I hope. The upper rear has a bracket that appears to hold the gas tank away from the engine on the bottom, then the frame, then the tie rod, then a washer, then a nylock nut. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You're right, the tiebars cant wander off adjustment, (though they can get loose). However, you obviously have a problem somewhere and its not unheard of for a bike to come from the factory 'mis'- assembled. Just trying to eliminate any possibilities. You're going through mount bolts at an alarming rate. Page 2-67, figure 2-112 of the repair manual shows the front tiebar bolt also listed as front groundstrap bolt. Under the racing thread also gives pictures of the front upper tiebar. Its really difficult to see, unless you know its there. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on August 29, 2006) |
