| Author | Message | ||
     984gasm |
OK, so if anyone has been following this, I got my axle loose, and turned around 17 times as the manual says. The belt doesn't seem to be loosening up to remove and now the tensioner won't come off of the studs. So two quick questions 1. Does the belt idler need to come off to remove wheel 2. after turning the axle 17 times, the wheel is veering off into the side of the belt guard, so what am I doing wrong (because seems if keep turning it to remove, it will pretty much stuck hitting the belt guard I checked the KV because I could have sworn I read about this, but to no avail.. Thanks for the help | ||
| Darthane |
You need to remove the idler pulley to get the rear wheel off (easily). Two 1/2" nuts are all that hold it on, IIRC. I actually had the holes on mine drilled out one incremental drill bit size larger because it was such a pain in the ass to get on and off (think prybars and mallets). Slides on and off real easy now once I loosen up the rear axle. If it's stuck, give it a dose of WD40 (make sure you don't get it on anything else!) and whack it a couple times to break it loose, then see if you can work a flat-bladed screwdriver in behind it (it's all unfinished aluminum back there) and eek it off. (Message edited by darthane on June 27, 2006) | ||
| Gowindward |
Sounds like the the axle is seized on one or both of the bearings. That's why the wheel is pulling to the right as you remove the axle. (Message edited by gowindward on June 27, 2006) | ||
| 984gasm |
"Sounds like the the axle is seized on one or both of the bearings." That sounds like a possibility... What should I do to fix that? Penetrating oil? And Darthane, thanks for the tip, I removed the idler once no problem, figures the hottest day it wants to be a bitch}} | ||
| Darthane |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ That sounds like a possibility... What should I do to fix that? Penetrating oil? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ...do you feel like banging on your wheel with a mallet and cursing like a sailor?  Aluminum can bond to steel (what I would presume the bearings are made of) alarmingly well given the right exposure to the elements...I had a flat on my truck a couple years ago and pulled all the lugs off only to discover that the aluminum wheel was 'welded' to the steel hub. I couldn't get the damned thing off until I'd soaked it in WD40 and let it sit for about twenty minutes, then one good kick broke it loose. I wouldn't recommend treating your XB's rear wheel like I did my truck's, though. 20"x9" have got a tad bit more mass to them. LOL (Message edited by darthane on June 27, 2006) | ||
| Beachbuell |
You do not need to remove the idler puller to take off the rear wheel. | ||
| Darthane |
=P No, you don't have to, but I'd think it's part of the disassembly process for a reason. It may just be a remnant of the 2003s whose original belts were very sensitive to twisting. -=shrugs=- | ||
| 984gasm |
LOL. hum, banging and cursing like a sailor, that might work, but maybe I will try wd40. Should I try to bring the axle all the way back in, because pretty far out now? | ||
| Gowindward |
Yes, this could be ugly :-( Yes, penetrating oil, and unscrew the axle until it starts to load and spread the swingarm. The start working the wheel with your palm or rubber mallet. Take your time. This happened to me once and I managed to get it to break free with out to much trouble. | ||
| 984gasm |
Sorry, so that's a yes to bringing the axle back in, then penetrating oil, then unscrew again after letting sit? Thanks | ||
| Gowindward |
Yes, bring axle back in. Oil let set for 30 minutes, then remove again. If it's still stuck then unscrew the axle until it starts to load and spread the swingarm. The mallet and pray. | ||
| Darthane |
The oil's probably a good idea. I can envision a way to try breaking it loose, but I'd be loathe to try it when almost all the metal involved is aluminum. ...just be careful not to get that junk all over the place, and when you finally do go about putting your wheel back on, don't forget the anti-seize! Does penetrating oil break down grease, or am I thinking of something else? Well, I suppose if you've got a hole in your bearing seal they'd have to be replaced either way. LOL} | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
like most i too had this problem my first time removing the rear wheel. bearing was seized on really well. i very nicely tried to get it loose w/ no luck. then i loaded it up w/ penetrating oil and got my heat gun out set it up on a milk crate and blew hot air (low speed) through the axle.(hollow) till i thought it was warm, then let it cool a few (more oil) and heat it back up. did this 2-3 times and then loosen/tighten the axle a few times and it "popped". took some finess but it came off easier than i thought it would after tring so hard before doing this. i have now done this for 2 other friends that were ready to cut the axle off.(not recomended) so it works..just take your time and you should be fine. hope it helps you.. | ||
| 984gasm |
Thanks again guys.. I just went out and bought penetrol and will start on that. Hopefully all works | ||
| Buelltroll |
Go from the other side with a long ratchet extension and tap it off with a hammer. Mine was being retarded last week when I got new tires n thats how I got mine off. Don't forget the anti-sieze when you reassemble. (Message edited by buelltroll on June 27, 2006) | ||
| 984gasm |
Buelltroll, tried that earlier, than after your message I got motivated and tried it again with a different extension and got that f*cker. So I guess thanks for the motivation. This whole process is taking alot longer than I wanted.. At this rate I should have the tire off and re-installed by September... | ||
| Buelltroll |
Heh give it a few more times n you'll have it down to under a month in no time. |
