| Author |
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Jetbuilder
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 21, 2006 - 06:57 pm: | 
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I have an 05 XB12R with 5200 miles on it and when I go out in the afternoon for the 1st ride of the day the bike creeps forward when starting. I am depressing the clutch but it still wants to move. Once started it stops creeping. Also down shifts into 1st/2nd feel "Spongey" not very solid. Any ideas?
Red |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Thursday, June 22, 2006 - 10:08 am: |
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The clutch needs adjustment. With that mileage it would probably be good to do the primary chain, clutch adjuster, and clutch freeplay adjustment at the handlebar in that order and get them all right.
I defer to the XB owners for the details, I have a M2.
As a quick fix, you might try checking and adjusting the clutch lever freeplay. If you can pull the cable sheath away from the perch (where it enter near the lever) more than 1/16" or so, your cable length adjust can be adjusted at the adjuster in the middle of the cable.
The adjustment to make the cable sheatch longer reduces the gap described above at the perch, gives you more disengagement on the clutch plates, and that reduces the clutch drag when in gear at a rest.
Make the adjustment 1/4 turn or 1/2 turn at a time, a little can go a long way and too much can over load the adjuster screw bearing (inside the primary cover) and even cause clutch slippage.
Are you starting that in gear with the clutch lever held in? If so, you really should start it in neutral. Then, with the engine running, squeeze the lever a few times to free up the plates, then hold the lever in and drop it in 1st. If you get any creep or a lot of gear clash you need to do the adjustments.
The happiest Buell owners as far as clutch operation and shifting are the ones that buy a service manual and do their own work. If you're paying for service now it will pay for itself quickly.
Jack |
Sparky
| | Posted on Thursday, June 22, 2006 - 03:01 pm: |
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In addition to what JBQ said I'd recommend Syn3 in the primary/trans. I'm convinced this oil renders superior shift quality (quietness, snickability) and less in-gear-when-stopped viscosity drag than Sport Trans fluid if that's what you are using.
Also be sure to keep the clutch cable clean & lubed with a high quality cable lube. This ensures that lever effort is not wasted on friction wearing away the cable. Clean and grease the round swage thing at the lever end of the cable too so that it doesn't stick and start breaking cable strands.
Sparky |
Jetbuilder
| | Posted on Thursday, June 22, 2006 - 06:14 pm: |
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I am using "Syn3" and I do have a maint manual and do my own maint.I am wondering still though why on my down shifts from 3 to 2nd and 2nd to 1st feel like the lickage is made of rubber. No positive feel at all.
Red
Ps: Thanks for the advice so far |
Jetbuilder
| | Posted on Thursday, June 22, 2006 - 06:14 pm: |
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Sorry meant to say linkage |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Friday, June 23, 2006 - 11:34 am: |
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You could have some issues with the transmission.
When my M2 is right and I'm using throttle blips right, the downshifts are smooth and easy. None of the clunks or clacks you hear on ordinary or slower upshifts. I don't feel any detents but there is a positive stop at the end of the lever travel.
Some problems that pop up there are the clip that holds the shifter detent plate on breaking or falling off and the pins backing out of the shifter drum. That would normally be accompanied with really bad shifting or unable to shift all gears. Also, if the detent starts dragging on the back of the clutch drum it will make a noise.
Another is the clutch spring plate coming apart. That will shed some rivets and pieces of flat springs into the clutch, gears, and primary case and is usually characterized by a major change in the feel of the clutch and also some shifting problems. The cure here is to replace the spring plate with two steel plates and one friction plate, thereby eliminating one more disengenious "improvements" ever made to H-D clutches.
Not having a manual makes it hard, if your long range plan is to do your own work a service manual and parts book will really make it easier and pay off in the long run.
DaveS at Appleton H-D (on the sponsor's page) is usually pretty good on stocking manuals or getting them quickly. His prices are good, they give us BadWebers a discount too.
Looking at your profile, you are probably a gunsmith/anal retentive machinist type. I was the former, still am one of the latter :> . The Buell is a fairly simple mechanism but it does respond to proper adjustment and the occasional repair. I'd think of it as the M1911A1 of sports bikes.
In your case, I'd probably check the primary chain and adjust it if it looked a little loose or tight, back the clutch lever freeplay off to make the lever floppy at the bar, do the clutch adjuster screw adjustment (behind the clutch inspection cover), then adjust the clutch lever freeplay. If the clutch drag and shifting problems continue, I'd pull the primary cover and start looking at the shifter mechanism.
You can catch and reuse your primary lube if it is fairly new. Your bike is new enough that it probably has the metal primary gasket and that can be reused. So it is mostly an issue of a little time and labor with common tools.
Jack |
Jetbuilder
| | Posted on Friday, June 23, 2006 - 05:41 pm: |
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I looked in the manual last night and will do the clutch adjustment this weekend.
Thanks for the help.
Red |
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