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Message |
G4string
| Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 06:10 pm: |
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I took my bike into the shop for new shoes. The guy said he thinks the bike needs new steering bearings (after his test ride). He explained why he thought this. It seems practical. I have been having some weird vibrations at certain RPMS and when counter steering. I thought it was a rebound/compression issue. My question is how can I know for sure that the bearings are bad. The two bearings are only 50.00, but I am sure the labor is around 300-500. I trust these guys. But I want to make sure. Has anybody had this same problem or is this a signal of a different problem. Thanks! (Message edited by g4string on June 15, 2006) |
Ds_tiger
| Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 06:25 pm: |
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Old school way to tell - get the front wheel off the ground, grab the lower fork tubes (down by the axle) and forcibly wiggle front and back. If it feel "notchy" or "clicks" when you move it, more than likely your stem bearings need either tightened or replaced. A proper front end will move smoothly side to side without binding or notching. Good luck |
Kccyclone
| Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 06:31 pm: |
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G4string how many miles? |
Hogs
| Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 06:43 pm: |
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Front engine mount,could also be the cause,something to check as well, just replaced mine and know of others that have gone through them, and I think there is an updated one now as well.. |
G4string
| Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 06:52 pm: |
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about 3500 miles |
Skyguy
| Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 08:33 pm: |
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My bearings went bad at 12,000 miles. My fault for leaving the bike in the snow for a month (broken bones). They were $30.00 at the dealre and I put them in myself. They got "notchy" or loose. no middle ground. |
Kurosawa
| Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 08:40 pm: |
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I'd say loose bearings. That was my problem when I bought the bike at 3600 miles. What you need is a torque wrench and a 3/8" allen wrench, the kind that's a little stub on a socket. You loosen up the steering head nut pinch bolt and the two lower fork tube pinch bolts. Torque the steering head nut to 38 to 42 ft-lbs. and tighten up the pinch bolt for that nut. There's a torque spec in the manual but I just winged it. Now you're going to align the forks. With the bike in neutral, you push the bike straight forward a short distance and slam on the front brake. Do this 4 or 5 times. The idea is to bottom the fork a few times, and in the process if the top triple tree is misaligned with the bottom, it will twist into line. Tighten up the lower fork tube pinch bolts. Again there's a torque spec in the manual, again I simply winged it. Now try it out and see how it works. Did my bike a world of good, hope it does you the same! (Message edited by kurosawa on June 15, 2006) |
Kurosawa
| Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 08:44 pm: |
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PS, don't know if I got the order right, I may have tightened up the lower fork pinch bolts after aligning the forks, then torqued the steering head nut, then tightened up the steering head nut pinch bolt. Can't rightly remember. |
G4string
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 02:12 am: |
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I will make sure tomorrow that it is either the steering bearings or the engine mount. If it is the bearings I will have the shop do it. I dont feel comfortable f**king with steering components. However, if its a mount, I will do it. Thanks for all of your help. |
Vonsliek
| Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 05:34 am: |
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ok dude .. i have a 05 xb12r .. the front motor mount - isolator, in the factory parlance - is shot .. serive said its a *warranty issue* & hence no servce fee ... i'll take that .. to be certin - push bike fwd - while sitting on it - violently & then lift up w/ equal force .. if on lifting it makes a CLUNK .. is facked! |
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