| Author | Message | ||
     Doakster |
My xb12r has developed minor front brake pulsations at low speeds 10mph or less roughly, more noticable on harder low speed braking. Also the pads will squeak when cold as when the pulses hit. I've had it checked and rotor and wheel were not warped. Any Ideas? | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Clean the rotor pins with some brake cleaner, make sure that the rotor can move freely at each attachment point. | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
it has to do w/ the brake pads. just went through the same thing. ordered some lyndall pads from american sportbike and that cleaned up the rotor and got rid of my pulsating. seems some build up happens on the rotors from the materials of the stock pads. does your rotor have black build up spots on the rotors (between the holes) as mine did? the new pads will clean these "smudge" looking build up away and brakes will be better than new. call AL AS HE CAN EXPLAIN IT MUCH BETTER AND HE IS A NICE GUY TO SPEAK W/ ABOUT BUELLS.  | ||
| Hkwan |
99buellx1, would the brake cleaner (or contact cleaner) destroy the stock gold rims? | ||
| Rr_eater |
YES THEY WILL DAMAGE!!!! DO NOT USE ANY SOLVENTS AROUND POWDERCOATS!! BAD JUJU Bruce | ||
| Hkwan |
So basically to clean the build-up in that area it's probably best to use soft brush and mild wheel cleaner, huh? | ||
| Freyke |
Check the steering head bearing cap nut... You describe classic symptoms of this condition... I don't have the torque spec on hand... check the KV though.... | ||
| Lovematt |
I just ordered a set of the Lyndalls from American Sport Bike as I am having the same issue. My steering bearings are fine and properly adjusted. I did e-mail Al at American Sport Bike for advice on the pulsing I was feeling and this is what he said: "The OEM sintered pads are notorious for leaving an uneven deposition layer on the rotor. As it heats up under use, this deposition layer creates variable grabbiness on the rotor. Above 20MPH, the grabbiness is at a higher frequency than the frequency response of your forks. But below 20MPH, the forks react to this variable stopping force by diving and undiving a little, which creates the pulsing in your front end. The Lyndalls are semi-metallics that don't leave uneven deposition layer. Once they've scraped away the layer that's already there, the pulsing will be gone." Hopefully just changing the pads and roughing up the rotor a bit will do the trick! (Message edited by lovematt on June 02, 2006) | ||
| Socalxb |
I can second the Lyndall pad cure. I had the same pulsating on my '04 12R. Took it to the dealer and they said the rim and the rotor were both within tolerances. Installed the pads from American Sport Bike last weekend and everything works much smoother now. I had never changed pads out on a bike before and found it very easy to do. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Yup. The Lyndall pads do the job. Thanks Al. | ||
| Johnk3 |
i have lyndalls and the Braking wave rotor and my have pulsed from install. I am going to try different pads as the rotor pins are all free of debris and have the right play. | ||
| Skully |
Al is right. The Lyndall's cured my front brake pulsing. I have photos before and after the install here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=6817&post=654068#POST 654068 The first photo shows the deposits on the rotor with the stock pads. The second photo shows the same rotor after the Lyndall's cleaned the deposits off. The third photo shows that the deposits are returning with the Nissin pads. Hope this helps, Keith | ||
| Doakster |
The pictures of the deposits on the rotors don't look as bad as mine but there is some color distortion, plus my bike only has 6500 miles. I just ordered a set of Lyndall's from Al and I expect this to clear up the problem. | ||
| Hkwan |
What happens if you still have the stock pad but just go and clean up the rotor with, say finer steel wool? Would that cure the pulsing for a while until it builds up again? | ||
| Lovematt |
I have tried sanding the rotor with 60/80 grit sand paper by cross sanding (sand about 45 degrees from inner edge surface and then 90 degrees from that). This was followed by a rag with some brake cleaner sprayed on it followed by a dry rag. This did seem to help for a while but it kept coming back. However I have never had this problem before on other bikes which is why I sought some help from others this time...I also got tired of doing this every 5-10 days and said enough! | ||
| Karstenfarley |
I have this problem as well. I noticed that at a particular speed (under 30mph )and with mild pressure the brake will grab then seemingly not grab... pulsing all the way till I'm stopped. Something that helps (not fixes) the problem is to tighten the steering head bearing. Don't just go up to the bike and check the torque. Skully helped me with the procedure and you actually raise the front, loosen the fork clamps, set the bike back down to let the forks re-settle. Then re-torque and re -tighten everything back up. When we did this to my 12S I noticed a difference almost immediately. I'll be getting the Golds soon too probably. |
