| Author | Message | ||
     Luvthemtorts |
I adjusted my primary chain today as part of my 5000 mile service and am feeling a bit worried about whether or not it is set to allow for the proper freeplay. I am having a difficult time getting an accurate reading with a tape measure so hopefully someone can relate to this question and supply an answer. I have read that the chain itself is approximately 3/8 of an inch in cross section. When looking through the inspection cover the entire link is visible. With a fair amount of pressure from my finger I can push it up until it just disappears from view inside the top of the primary cover. Assuming the link is 3/8 wide and there is a gap between the chain and the top of the inspection area I am guessing it has approximately 1/2 inch slack when pushed up (for some reason less when pushed down). Any input would be greatly appreciated!! For the record I went for a short ride to try it out and it was MUCH easier finding neutral. The infamous clunk when changing gears is still present but feels more positive (although perhaps a bit louder)than before. The chain was quite loose before adjustment which I'm guessing was the reason why finding neutral was very difficult. | ||
| Hacksaw |
Chain should have 3/4" play. I use a 3/4" open end wrench for a caliper/reference tool. | ||
| Luvthemtorts |
Hacksaw, Thanks for the reply. I tried that trick but it didn't seem real accurate. From reading some of the past posts it seems that the slack measurement is pretty critical. I didn't feel real comfortable with it due to the different variables such as pressure applied to the chain and hand movement while holding the wrench. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Jackie, The only thing that is really critical is that you don't get to tight. If you come up too loose no harm done.Worse case it could be loose enough to slap the case and make a racket.You can use an allen wrench to lift the chain and measure the stem for travel at the top of the hole. Over a half to three quarters is good..........Charlie | ||
| Buellistic |
Glad you BUELLers are wiseing up on the PRIMARY CHAIN ADJUSTMENT(3/4 inch play on the tight spot(tube frame, BLAST, & XB models) as "i" have been preaching this for years now !!! BELT, 2 inchs on the tight spot(tube frame models) !!! | ||
| Hacksaw |
Luvthemtorts Chain adjustment is not required to be 3/4" +- .001 eyeball is good enough. I have problems with loose tolerances also. I have a Machinist background so if it isn't measured with a micrometer I get worried that is not right. Buellistic Is the chain setting at 3/4" due to the cases expanding more than the chain when all are hot? I know that the chain will loosen as it gets warmer, but the cases will expand also. Hack | ||
| Luvthemtorts |
Thanks guys! I went ahead and loosened it up quite a bit. I was careful to make sure it didn't make contact with the top of the primary cover though. I tried the wrench method again and think it is pretty close but now I am a bit worried that I may have damaged something while letting the bike idle after tightening it up yesterday. If it is too loose will I know? | ||
| Jackbequick |
A little more detail on this. The recommended 3/4" is total travel, both up and down. Since it may sag down a little, you may see a little less down movement than you do up. Also, the chain gets tighter when warmed up, the 3/4" is for a cold (room temp) chain. And you want to check it at the loosest spot on chain to check. That can make quite a difference. If you clean the oil off the sideplate with parts cleaner or a solvent like acetone, you can mark the tight spot with a Sharpie permanent marker and it will stay visible for a long time and speed the process of future checks. And finally, the most spectacular improvements in chain noise, gear selection, and shifting quality, seem to happen with you do the primary chain, clutch adjusting screw, and clutch lever freeplay adjustments in a 1, 2, 3 sequence. Jack | ||
| Buellgrrrl |
According to the factory manual for my M2L chain slop is measured as the total travel, not travel in each direction (up+down). | ||
| Jackbequick |
You're right, and that is what I thought I said. Maybe that should read "including both up and down" and not "both up and down"? Jack | ||
| Jhanz |
Just curious, but why are people recommending 3/4" freeplay when the factory manual for the 06' XB's recommends 3/8-1/2" freeplay, if done cold? I adjusted mine today according to service manual, but didn't get to ride due to rain. I would like to know more about this. Thanks. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Experience has shown that 3/4" (at the loosest spot) works out a little better than the recommended amount. The primary chain tightens up a little when the bike is well warmed up and it looks like maybe sometimes that and the recommended setting can be a little too tight. The effects of a too tight primary chain are noise and there are also some side effects on gear clash, positive shifting, and ease of shifting. Jack | ||
| Jhanz |
Jack, Thanks for the explanation. I will try it. It would make sense considering that when I got my bike back from the 1000 mile service, it sounded like the primary case was going to "lift-off" into the sky. The freeplay is measured as total freeplay, right? The way I did it was to push down on the chain and get a measurement from the bottom edge of the chain at the lowest point, then push up on the chain and measure to the bottom edge of chain at the highest point. Is that a sufficient method? | ||
| Jackbequick |
Right, total freeplay. The sideplates are 3/8" high so that amount of upward movement when you push up hard with the tip of your finger should get it right. I had trouble when I set mine the first time because I did not push up on chain the hard enough. That resulted in the chain being too loose and it was slapping the case a little at slower speeds. It was a sort of clunk clunk noise just as I was stopping. Getting the primary chain, clutch adjuster screw, and lever freeplay all right (and doing the adjustments in that order) made shifting very troublefree and finding neutral very easy. Having a service manual is essential for doing your own work but there are one or two things (like the primary chain specs) that need some "adjustment". Jack |
