Author |
Message |
Cap
| Posted on Monday, June 04, 2001 - 11:07 pm: |
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Ralph, I will trade you a S2T progressive spring for the stock straight rate one. The progressive spring is too stiff for my weight and the stock spring is right for my riding style. Cap Paul Thede does know his stuff but some of his workers don't! |
Ralph
| Posted on Tuesday, June 05, 2001 - 01:47 pm: |
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Cap, still waiting on the Iboc (?) spring. You can have the spring off of the S1 as soon as I get all the spring switching done. Awesome looking tank cover by the way. red{bighairyralph} |
Simond
| Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 09:12 am: |
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I have recently had the SRP on my 2000 X1 replaced by the latest Showa unit. I believe that this is covered by Service Bulletin B-033A above. It states clearly that the shock is 45mm shorter than the original Showa unit and the measurements given tie up with the shock on my bike. Can anybody confirm that this is the same shock that is fitted new to 2001 X1s. Am I right in thinking that all new Buells are now fitted with the shorter shock. The reason I ask is that I ordered an aftermarket shock without realising that the length of the new unit had changed. Consequently the aftermarket shock is about 45mm longer than the one that is fitted to my bike now. The shock's manufacturer has been advised that the shock length for 2001 Buells is the same as for all previous models. Thanks in advance for any help Cheers Simon (UK) |
Ccryder
| Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 09:23 am: |
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Simond: Yes the 2001 shock is shorter than the previous Showa shocks. So the shock manufacturer is wrong. Neil S. |
Rickway
| Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 03:50 pm: |
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I would like to protect my forks from stones, weather, etc. I just bought the NOJ fork protectors, but they are nothing but some pieces of neoprime for $14.00! Has anyone used any other type of fork protection or gators; from a dual purpose or dirt bike, for example? Richard |
Court
| Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 09:39 pm: |
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DUCT TAPE |
Airborne
| Posted on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 01:31 am: |
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DUCT TAPE!!!? Spoken like a true Tim Allen fan. |
Simond
| Posted on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 07:47 am: |
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Neil, thanks for that. |
Mikej
| Posted on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 10:04 am: |
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I thought RedGreen was the duct tape king. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2001 - 06:46 pm: |
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Att: Buellers ISOLATORS-ISOLATORS-ISOLATORS key words-IMPROVISE,THINK,BECAREFUL,and be clean!! The Easy Part: Doing this on a 1997 S3T!!!!!!!!!!! 1) Disconnect the negative terminal battery cable. 2) Put car frame stand under each rider foot peg. 3) Tie wrap foot pegs to stands. 4) Loosen isolator allen bolts. 5) Remove gas tank and tail section. 6) Remove: a) rear caliper assembly b) rear wheel c) rear fender 7) Disconnect tie bar from mount block,swing arm. 8) Remove rear and front bolts on rear shock and wire front eyelet to front eyelet mount. 9) Use motorcycle ratchet tie downs underneith engine(DO NOT pinch oil lines under engine) and up over top of frame. This will keep engine more or less where it is supposed to be in case hydraulic jack leaks down as they always do. 10)Place hydraulic jack under engine just ahead of swingarm block on engine casting. 11)Remove bolts from swingarm block/rear engine case. 12)Remove 2 ISOLATOR allen blots. 13)With a small crow bar(BECAREFUL) work swingarm assembly down and to the rear. THE HARD PART 2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PRODUCT IMPROVEMENT: Notch the swingarm mount block on the left side where the two oil lines come up from underneith the engine to the oil tank. It will be noticeable where things are fitting too close. Round the edges of the bracket where left rear bolt goes that holds oil tank and rear brake hose. Grind some metal off rear engine case where nut goes on lower left swingarm mount block is attached to case so a box end wrench will go easily on nut. CLEAN: ALL mateing surfaces memtal to metal AND where ISOLATORS go in frame!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 1) With 2 inch flat washers and 2 1/2" bolts & nuts mount ISOLATORS in frame Make a go/nogo gauge out of whats at hand the width of the swingarm block. 2) Compress ISOLATORS evenly until go/nogo gauge will slip to bolt heads. 3) Bring swingarm assembly up from below ISOLATORS to contact bolt heads. 4) Remove bolts/nuts/washers. 5) With another hydraulic jack and small crow bar align ISOLATOR/swingarm assembly holes & insert allen bolts(do not cross thread!!!!!!). 6) Align & put in 4 rear motor mount bolts. Tighten all four and then torque to spects. 7) Put whats left back together. This is a KISS(keep it simple stupid) PROGRAM!!! Always remember to THINK and BECAREFUL!!!!!!!!!! Left space between each item in case you keep some !@#$%^&*()+|\=- notes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Feel free to ping if you feel confused in any way? In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley |
Buellhowser
| Posted on Saturday, June 16, 2001 - 10:58 pm: |
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Thank you for the information Buellistic, doesn't sound so bad. You know the saying, NO ONE BUT YOURSELF WILL TAKE THE PROPER CARE REQUIRED TO FIX IT RIGHT! I am reminded of this every time I get warranty work done. bh |
Bueller
| Posted on Sunday, June 17, 2001 - 10:48 am: |
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I just changed the isolators on my 99' X-1, it seems like there's a little more vibration at idle/low rpm than before. Tat of ASB suggested that the new iso's are a lot harder than the old ones, and that might account for the extra vibe's. I checked (and re-checked) looking for something I might have forgotten to torque down, but I didn't miss anything. Anybody else experience this? Ed |
Jmartz
| Posted on Monday, June 18, 2001 - 09:12 am: |
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Bueller: When I replace the isolators (with earlier versions) on my firnds S1 he complained of more vibration. Must be a break in thing... |
Chuck
| Posted on Monday, June 18, 2001 - 10:04 pm: |
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O.K. what's the deal? I removed my rear wheel; and I discovered that only one of my "axle adjusting bolts" (PLEASE SEE ITEM #8 IN PHOTO) is threaded into the swingarm. The hole for this bolt in the right side of the swingarm is "drilled" larger than the bolt, but has no threads -- the bolt just sits there loose. It looks as if there never were threads. Is my bike unique; or is this normal? WTF
|
Jmartz
| Posted on Monday, June 18, 2001 - 10:55 pm: |
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Chuck: The ones I've messed with have had through holes, that is why there are two nuts. Jose |
Chuck
| Posted on Monday, June 18, 2001 - 11:20 pm: |
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Well, that makes me feel better . . . but IMHO . . . its still not right. I've changed lots of tires on lots of bikes, many having similar adjuster set-ups; and all have been threaded. Thanks for writing back, Jose! |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Monday, June 18, 2001 - 11:28 pm: |
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Chuck, My 00 M2 has through holes. I thought it was a bit weird so I asked a guy at the dealer (Buell head to the max). He said they are all like that. Sometimes the hole is close enough to feel like it's threaded but it's not. Would have made things a bit easier if it was. BluzM2 |
Hans
| Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 01:41 am: |
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Getting a hole in there, seems me already difficult ! Hans. |
Chuck
| Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 04:48 am: |
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Thankyou, Brad. I'm finally calming down |
Jmartz
| Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 07:25 am: |
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Chuck: Why don't you try Helicoiling it? |
Leeaw
| Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 08:02 am: |
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Chuck, I thought it was wierd too, but mine is the same. I guess it gives you more adjustment freedom, and only functions to set the proper distance, cause once the axle nuts are tight, that's it. |
Ralph
| Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 01:50 pm: |
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Yup, just holes. Excitablechuck. bighairyunexcitableralph |
Bomber
| Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 01:56 pm: |
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Didn't Warren Zevon do a song about Excitable Chuck? |
Jakeanvil
| Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 01:59 pm: |
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then he raped and killed her and built a cage with her bones!!! one of my favorites!!! Jake |
Chuck
| Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 11:24 pm: |
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she deserved it |
Buellzebub
| Posted on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 03:16 pm: |
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help: whats the best method for seting up suspension dampening? i have the new shock and just installed the race springs in the forks. been fidling around with the settings but still cannot get it right [feels soft in sweepers at anything above 120 kph] front settings 2 clicks to the + side on both comp & rebound rear 2-1/4 turns out comp & rebound i weight in at around 180 with leathers i am confused with the instructions given in the manual. |
Buellzebub
| Posted on Monday, June 25, 2001 - 11:20 am: |
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dyslexia sux, had rebound and comp. backwards please disregard previous post |
Sparky
| Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 01:26 pm: |
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I'm thinking of installing Buell race springs in the forks of my 98 S3 as a quick fix for a front end dive problem and for general improvement while sport touring riding double. Both up we're about 320# plus luggage. The bike has the 2001 shock which makes the rear feel fine but now the front feels too soft. Would this be a good way to go for a cost effective solution that I could do myself? Any other recommendations? Sparky 96S1, 98S3 |
Buellx1nc
| Posted on Thursday, June 28, 2001 - 07:52 pm: |
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Sparky: IMHO, get the race springs, gold valve fork inserts and 10 - 15 weight oil in the fork should take care of the front dive. Cap is the man on this setup. Give him a shout for the specifics. He set our 99X1 up along these lines. Have yet to make the mods on the replacement 2001, but will do so as soon as the racing season slows down enough for me to get to Huntsville. RIDE SAFE Tom |
Jfrig231
| Posted on Friday, June 29, 2001 - 06:51 pm: |
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does anyone know the spring rate differences between an s-2 showa and an 98 si. I need a heavyer spring for my weight, so I grind off less of the bike on track days! thanks jeff |