| Author | Message | ||
     Xbeau12s |
Anybody had any experience with these tires? Do they last longer than the Pirelli Diablo Stradas? I have a tire "appointment" at my local Harley Davidson/Buell shop and they recommended the Metzler M1s which are more expensive and they said they last longer than the Pirelli Diablo Stratas. I personally think they want me to spend more money. It will cost close to $400.00 to get the Metzlers and have them put on. That's more than car tires! I just think this is high priced but they are the only Buell service dept. around my area. Please give me your good advice! I'm not racing, I just drive the hell out of my bike - interstate, lots of curvy roads and commuting, temp ranges from 80 day, 50 at night. | ||
| Edmbueller |
I have the M1's and just went to my very first track day this week. I can only RAVE about these tires, scraping the pegs and the tires never once waivered. | ||
| M1combat |
The M1's shouldn't last quite as long as the Strada's and $400 is WAY too much. The M1's are the last generation tire in that line. The current ones are M3's. They are more like the Pilot Power tires in compound, but like M1's in profile... I think they're the perfect tire for the XB. Anyway, I think you can get a set of M1's (Which were my standard choice until ?February? when the M3's came out) for less than $200 online... Maybe ask that dealer what they charge to mount tires if you bring in the tires and the bike? They'll most likely be assholes about it though if you didn't buy the tires from them. To give you an idea... I think I paid about $240 for this latest set of M3's and and I think the charge to put them on (I took the wheels off myself) was $14/end. That front Metz can be had for WELL under $100, and the rear for VERY close to $100... I'll bet you can get the set for less than $200 after shipping... | ||
| Indy_bueller |
That is pretty pricy. I bought my Metzeler M-1 rear for $120. It is a good tire though, I recommend it. | ||
| Glitch |
That is way high! The M1s are some of my favorite tires, but they are sport tires. There is no way they'll last as long as the Stratas. The last set of M1s I had lasted just over 3000 miles, and I should have replaced them before that. | ||
| Barker |
Just a suggestion: If you want a deal on tyres. Not alot of mileage but a deal. Check this I run pilot powers most of the time, but I just got a set of Dunlop 208's for $160 cyclegear.com. They got a sale on them. If you have a local cyclegear they will mount and balance tyres for 15 each. You just have to take the wheels off yourself. (Easy process if you have a way to lift your bike) | ||
| Xbeau12s |
I want a tire that lasts 5000 or more if possible. I can take the tires off myself. Is it easy or what tools will I need? I don't have a service manual so I would be doing this by just looking over the bike. I would love to just buy some online and take the tires on/off myself. The more I know about the bike the better! I found a pretty good deal on the Pirelli Diablo Stratas and I've heard a lot about them. Will the Metzler M3s last longer than the M1s? Thanks for all your help and I'm glad I posted before I spent $400.00. | ||
| Xbeau12s |
I would like to know how to take the tires off before I attack the bike. What is the correct way to lift a Buell up? I know you can't put a block under it because of the exhaust. Would straps from the rafters in my garage work? I don't have too much to lift it but I could probably do something. Someone should have some tricks of the trade to share. I just went to cyclegear.com and did the Dunlop 208 deal. $160.00 right now is too good to pass up and as long as they don't blow on me I'll be O.K. since my bike is just my form of transportation. Thanks Barker for the info. When I have more money I'll go with the Metzlers or Pirellis but for now the Dunlops will work. (Message edited by xbeau12s on May 18, 2006) | ||
| Barker |
Lifting the bike to remove wheels Cheap way: without a jack or stands ok I dont suggest this but I have done twice. I first losen the axles. You have to losen the tension bolts to the axle then the axle its self. you should have a do-dad/thingy/tool in your "tool" kit. Put this do-dad on your ratchet. And losen the axles. Then, I hook ratcheting straps and a canyon runner to the bike and the rafters of my carport, it looked like a buell trapize show. I was able to lift the bike and finish taking out the axles/wheels. Note: I removed my belt guards (see my profile pic) because they are ugly and are a pain when trying to remove the rear wheel. And you might want to remove the rear brake calipers. Take the wheels off, and run down to the local cyclegear $15 or your local bike shop. And get them to mount and balance. When you put the new tires/wheels on use a little bit of anti-sieze lube on the axles. I currently do this with a jack. No more circus acts. (Message edited by barker on May 18, 2006) | ||
| Diablobrian |
There is no way the M1's will out last the stradas. They are great sport/street tires. Is the $400 mounted and balanced price? if so it may not be too far off considering the shop rates for most H-D shops. There are good prices available on the net, but watch out for shipping costs, and then the price of mounting and balancing them after you get them home. Sometimes it's not as much of a bargain as it first may appear. | ||
| Xbeau12s |
The Dunlop 208s were $160.00 for the set and $10.00 for Shipping. I want to take the wheels off myself and I should be able to do that in my garage. It looks like a big allen head to loosen the axles? I wish I had the manual but that is on it's way when I get the $ for that. | ||
| Barker |
Not a big allen. Its a tool that comes with your bike it looks like to big nuts joined together. It came in my tool kit with my 2003 XB9R. If you dont have the tool you can buy a axle adapter. I also have one of these from my jap bike days.I got it @ cyclegear. http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=MRX_TOOL Note: I dont work for cyclegear. I'm just trying to be helpful. | ||
| Xbeau12s |
I was wondering what that was for. Thanks Barker. What is the wire tool for? You should get some kind of advertisement commission from cyclegear. I told them I heard about their deal on badweatherbiker.com! Jap bike days. I remember them only too well. I went through many rusted through gas tanks! Shouldn't have to worry about that on my Buell! | ||
| Barker |
Not sure about the wire thingy. At first I did not know what the axle tool was for either. I have used them before, it just did not click for the for a few months. When I got the bike I said a different style of bike engineering must require a different style of tools. Those 208's might not give you the best performance or tread life, but we will be smiling with our 208 cuz we got them so cheap. They are not bad tires, but there are some better ones. | ||
| M1combat |
The wire is a helmet lock of sorts  . The original exhaust is specifically meant to be a jack point. It's somewhat difficult to USE it as such though due to it's shape... | ||
| Diablobrian |
the axles are actually a 7/8" allen. Another cheater trick: some spark plug sockets have a 7/8 hex on one end. reverse in on an extension so that the hex is the business end and you are ready to go. don't forget they are left handed threads, and be sure to loosen the pinch bolts first! Use anti-sieze on the threads when re-assembling. that should cover a lot of the common questions about axle removal. | ||
| M1combat |
Only the front is left handed. Just FYI. about wheel removal though... Be very careful with the belt. Try not to twist it at all, and don't let it get kinked backwards AT ALL. For the front... You'll need to remove the front two T27's on the right fork (that secure the fender) so that when you lift the wheel you'll be able to rotate the caliper out of the way. I've had luck with rotating the left fork (with fender attached) out of the way as well. I find that when you do lift the front wheel and rotate the caliper out of the way you'll want to do it from the left side of the bike. Be careful with the caliper and where you move the wheel (be gentle and slow) because the caliper can and will scratch the powder coat. If you have the amber wheels, make SURE to tell the shop to be very careful because the powder coat is a bit on the fragile side . Actually, tell them, but expect the lips of the bead to be scrathed on the rear wheel when you get them back if yours are amber. I've just decided to take the powder coat off of the edge and have a thin polished/brushed ring. (Message edited by M1Combat on May 18, 2006) | ||
| Buelltroll |
The 208's SUUUUUCK.(Grip AND mileage) I think I got about 2000 miles out of mine. The M1's are nice n sticky but they're not QUITE as sure footed as Pilot Powers. 400$ is WAAAAAAY too much even if it is with mount n balance. Most Iv'e EVER seen for mount n balance is 30-40$ per tire off the bike. | ||
| M1combat |
Try the M3's BT... They're EXCELLENT . | ||
| Loki |
second the thought on the M3s. I have been running M1s since thier intro. Having just switched to the M3, the few short comings of the M1 have been addressed. Don't get me wrong the M1 is an excellent tire. I find it completely predictable. Just that the M3 shows that it is the next step of evolution. |
