| Author | Message | ||
     Easinc |
Good day all! Going to be re-torqueing the flywheel sprocket this weekend on my 12 and a buddies 9 (also installing a new Drummer SS on the 9 - thanks Kevin). Naturally, I don’t have the sprocket locking link tool reference in the procedure, and was wondering what those of you who have already performed this task have used to hold the sprocket in a fixed position. Any help would be greatly appreciated. | ||
| Phantom5oh |
The sprocket locking link tool... You can get it from DaveS like I did or from Al @ American Sport Bike... If I remember right, the American Sport Bike one is much less expensive, maybe half price... | ||
| Jackbequick |
And then there is the "cheapskate with a scrap of fibreglas handy" primary locking bar:   That is 4" long, about 1" wide, and 1/4" thick and cut from a piece of good quality, laid up fibreglas cloth from a boatbuilding shop. Jack | ||
| Holling |
Where do you get a torque wrench that measures up to 250 ft lbs? All the one's I have seen only go to 150 ft lbs. | ||
| Rr_eater |
craftsman has one, usually in stock at any good sears store. Some AutoZones and pepboys have a loner one you can borrow, but I never have trusted the calibration on them for something that important. you could also go to a local well equiped garage, and with some kind of security they may lend it to you for a day or so. You would be surprised what dealers (auto anyway) will do for a customer if you ask nicely!! Just a couple ideas Bruce | ||
| Xb9 |
I use a piece of aluminum from Lowe's cut to the proper length. I think it's about 2" wide x 1/8" thick. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I made mine from some aluminum scrap I had. The width isn't critical, just make sure it's 4" long and thick enough not to bend (mine is 1/4 thick). You should chamfer the edges so it fits inside the sprocket teeth nicely. What ever you make the lock bar out off, make sure it's softer than steel. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Step 1: Weigh 250 pounds. Step 2: Stand on 2 foot breaker bar, with the center of your shoe one foot from the center of the socket. You can adjust step 1 and 2 as necessary. Less weight means more distance. (Take 3060, divide it by your weight, and that is how many inches out on the breaker bar to stand) Seriously... this is how I have done it in the past. (note, the above was for 255 foot pounds. If you want 250 foot pounds, use 3000 instead of 3060... (12 times 250)). (Message edited by reepicheep on May 17, 2006) | ||
| Easinc |
Thanks for all the responses....that's exactly the info I was looking for. | ||
| Kurosawa |
4 1/8 x 2 x 1/8" aluminum with squared ends worked great. It only needs to be thick enough to remain straight, because the forces acting on it aren't bending forces, they're compression forces trying to shorten the bar. (Message edited by kurosawa on May 28, 2006) |
