| Author | Message | ||
     Naustin |
What did it end up being? | ||
| Buellkat |
I have decided to just order the Rubber Diaphragm Vacuum Piston for my carb. I have been so busy, I have not had a chance to put it all back together. I would rather replace it now, and not have to tear it all apart again. I did not see any tears, pinholes etc. Rcontroler, I take it that part# for the sportster is the same for the Blast, because its the same carb?? | ||
| Rcontroler |
That is the part number off the package of the diaphragm I am using in my Blast. It looked the same and has performed great. Could not see any difference as compared to the original part (except no split in new part). I believe I called and verified that the number was correct. Purchased it from local small Harley repair shop.... | ||
| Buellkat |
Great. Thank you Don. | ||
| Buellkat |
OK, I am baffled by the problem my Blast is currently having. I did not order a new vacuum piston. There was no indication of a tear whatsoever. I put it all back together. She started up like a champ, I changed the oil/filter, running great. I went for a ride, going great. I went from stop to 60 mph, no problem. 65, 70 back and forth, no problem. 10 miles later, on the expressway up to 80,85 back down, alright. I thought it was going good, absolutely no coughing, sputtering, nada. At about 30 miles of mostly 60 mph, WHAM she cuts out like out of gas and shuts off, I pop the clutch because I am going 50, off, pop it 40, runs then off, I coast to side of road. I try to crank it over, nothing. Battery semi cranking. I let it sit about 5 mins. , crank it right over. I head back in the direction of home, she goes just fine, except for a minor traffic stop by the a#@hole sheriff, I am literally in the middle of no where, he follows me for 2 miles then decides to pull me over, tells me my exhaust is too loud, told him he was mistaken. (Its a Vance & Hines) I guess he did'nt have anything else to do. ANYWAYS I am letting it idle this entire time, afraid to shut it off, I told him I could'nt shut it off, I get another 20 miles and WHAM shuts right down again. When it stopped the first time I switched to the reserve tank, I went a few miles and tried back to ON, it would sputter, switch back and forth from ON to RESERVE, it would only run good on RES. There is fuel in the tank btw. The battery is "dead", get a ride home, haul it back on a trailer. Dreaded it. I check the battery with a meter... 12.8 charge. Turn the key on, it drops a volt. I tried jumping it, and it just cranks like no gas. Needless to say, I throw my hands up as to what it could be. I thought Fuel related, but it also seems Electrical too/also?? Any suggestions where to start? Does it shut off if its too hot? I read in the manual about the Filter at the tank above the petcock, really I am just baffled. Sorry to ramble but that's the history. | ||
| Jlnance |
Kat - It may be a clogged vent hose. If it is, the problem will disappear if you loosen the gas cap. | ||
| Ezblast |
You can check the vent as Jlance sugests - however, sounds like battery - dead cell, and a dirty tank filter - what it sounds like - replace battery, and empty tank out and I think you have to remove the petcock from the tank to get to the tank filter - flush with a hose with tank upside-down and open, perhaps replace valve - I would. Let tank dry and re-assemble. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  (Message edited by ezblast on May 03, 2006) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I wouldnt flush the tank, just clean the petcock filter. Try pulling off the gas cap (as Jnance suggested) and see if the problem goes away. If the battery is original I'm sure it needs changing, but it sounds like it went dead from overcranking. It shouldnt cut out if its just going bad (you still had some cranking power). It does sound electrical though (ignition module), which quite often seems like fuel starvation. When coils and modules get hot is when they get erratic. Coils usually shut down and start again when cool. Ignition modules usually go with erratic symptoms when hot. Just to be on the safe side make sure its not your kickstand safety switch. | ||
| Buellkat |
Thank you, thank you, thank you for all the advice, I am confused about the "see if problem goes away" by loosening gas cap, does this mean while it's running, well trying to run, going down the road?? The battery is 2 years old, and I had it on a Battery Tender all winter. It isn't really "dead" is it when I put the meter on it and it reads 12.8?? or because with key on it drops a volt, so that is like a "load test"?? I will pursue the kickstand switch to start. | ||
| Jprovo |
BuellKat- That's exactly what it means, loosen the gas cap while going down the road, and see if the problem goes away. If it's a plugged fuel gas tank vent, you have now vented the tank. I does sound like your battery might be dead or dying. Try testing it after it sits overnight (off the battery tender) and see if it maintained voltage throughout the night. I'd be suspicious of the bank angle sensor, coil and ignition module. (Message edited by jprovo on May 04, 2006) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes just loosen the cap while running down the road or re starting. Be Careful! A dead battery will still show good voltage but if just turning on the key drops it down to 11.8, its dead! A 'load test' generally means loading the battery with the total amount of power draw it uses when functioning properly. Just turning on the key would be a very minor load test. A load test is usually done with a fully charged battery. The term 'dead battery' generally means a battery without sufficient charge to start the vehicle, but not necessarily no good.It probably just ran out of charge through over cranking. | ||
| Naustin |
I don't know what the symptoms of a bad ignition module are (besides what erik just described) - but one thing I've learned from browsing this board is that when your bike acts all crazy and you've inspected/replaced everything you can think of and you're still having a problem - then its the ignition module. Unfortunately you can't test them and you just have to pony up and buy a new one and see if it remedies your problem - so definatly eliminate all other problems first. It would suck to replace the ignition module and find out that it was a dirty fuel filter, or a quirky kickstand switch, or a partially blocked tank vent... Or a bad battery. PS) I think battery tenders are Voodoo B-S! Maybe it cooked your batter and the battery itself has a short in it... I've never removed or charged my battery or hooked it up to anything over the winter. I park the bike in the garage, and the battery sits all winter. In the spring. Crank-Crank- THUMP-ROOOM  Its made it through 2 winters so far just fine. (shrug) (Message edited by naustin on May 04, 2006) (Message edited by naustin on May 04, 2006) | ||
| Naustin |
....then again, what does the battery have to do with the bike dying? The ignition runs off the generator doesn't it? Or is the battery part of the circuit? Couldn't you remove the battery while the bike is running and wouldn't it continue to run just fine? | ||
| Buellkat |
Naustin I agree. I think the battery is a separate issue coinciding with the bike dying. New battery (again). I forgot to mention (I think), once I had it home, I tried to jump it, it just cranked like no gas. At this point, I can't check the gas vent thing it has to be running.... | ||
| Ezblast |
Pop the tank cap off and leave off, replace battery - make sure connections are tight, and crank - should crank over and start - do this from the reserve position of your fuel petcock. Then we can R&R from there. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellkat |
I have replaced battery with a Harley Davidson Vrod battery (same thing), now it will only crank, like no fuel. I have turned petcock to Reserve, fuel flows thru fuel-line. I removed petcock, cleaned the tube, screen, and holes in the petcock. Put it all back together. New fuel line to carb. Still no luck. I am looking everything over, I am stumped. I see my intake rubber boot has a tear. THIS might be the original problem with running crappy and dying. BUT What about the problem of no fuel flowing? I was thinking vacuum to pull the fuel from the tank, but conceptually, it's like water thru a hose. Turn gas on it will flow to carb???? | ||
| Mikej |
I haven't read the replies, so if this is redundant then ignore it. Check the simple things and then the usual things: 1. change the spark plug. even clean looking ones have caused bikes to not run in the past. Ensure there is spark getting to it before you install the new one, and ensure the plug is gapped correctly regardless of the parts person telling you they come pre-gapped already. 2. sidestand safety switch. Jumper it to see if that is the issue. 3. Clutch lever safety switch. Similar to the sidestand switch. 4. Kill switch. Just rocker it a few times. 5. Next up is vent lines. Do you have mud wasps in your area that might have found a winter home to plug up? 6. Replace that cracked intake boot regardless. 7. Ensure you have compression. One demo Blast a few years ago that I helped retrieve from a freeway late one night had a busted intake valve guide and zero compression. You can do a pseudo-compression check when you are changing the plug by cranking the engine over in neutral with the plug out and covering the hole with a finger - avoid the plug wire when doing this. 8. Reseat your fuses and look for corrosion/condensation on their tabs. The more things you rule out the closer you are to the solution. Hope something in this helps. | ||
| Ezblast |
Did you replace the intake boot? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellkat |
OK I just replaced the boot (OF COURSE) with a temp. fix from the Hardware store. Rubber Plumbing Type thingy. She fired right up. Now I will give it a road test and see if the problems have been solved. I will order a new Buell boot too.....LOL | ||
| Ezblast |
The temp. replacement will not have positive stops - to hold the clamps on - it will slide off - so don't make it a long test - order two boots - keep a spare for back up - they are cheep! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellkat |
EZ Actually it does, it is same diameter and has a metal collar with grooves and two clamps like OEM....anyways I just rode it 5 miles, will only run on Reserve, when petcock is ON position will run maybe a mile then spit and die, or I switch it to Reserve and no problems. Perhaps I should order a petcock with the rubber boots.... Oh I forgot to mention, I tried running it with gas cap on, gas cap off, vent line on, vent line off at the top near gascap. No difference in it running, it still died. (Message edited by buellkat on May 10, 2006) | ||
| Ezblast |
Definately the Petcock needing replacing -  lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Mikej |
My M2 did exactly the same thing once. What I ended up finding was that the inside tube had migrated to the top of the screen tube and was restricting gas flow over the top. I ended up chopping off about half the tube and solved the problem. Check your tube top to screen top clearance. I now have a larger main tank and a miniscule reserve. | ||
| Naustin |
Sucks you ended up replacing the battery, and all that other stuff too... Sometimes it takes a while to narrow down the problem. I once put over $400 in to my truck replacing various sensors due to a rough running condition - before the problem got bad enough for me to recognize my fuel pump was shot... That sucked. | ||
| Xgecko |
Another thing to check is your spark plug wire | ||
| Buellkat |
Naustin, the battery was probably needed regardless....The rest has only been time. I am not a fan of messing with Fuel, well the smell associated with gasoline. I will try what Mikej suggested about the tube. Along with checking sparkplug wire. Thanks everyone for your ideas. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Just to eliminate a possibility, did you try running it with the gas cap loose? (Mikej's problem sounds a very likely cause in this case). | ||
| Swampy |
Buellkat, Every once and a while, I don't know why, but my Sporty fuel valve messes up, the metal knob part comes disengaged from the nylon valve part that controls the fuel. Anyways good luck! | ||
| Blaststunter |
i got both problems fixed, carb diaphragm not in place and blinker relay fried and a week later snapped my drive belt just got that fixed yesterday, now its perfect and up for sale $3200 o.b.o. | ||
| Ezblast |
I just don't think it will sell here when your pen name is Blast Stunter - lol EZ |
