| Author | Message | ||
     Sped214 |
Ok, A while back, I tinkered with my static timing (the cover rivets broke, and it was just too inviting to open it up), and while the bike was in for a warranty repair on leaking oil lines, I asked the dealership to double-check it to make sure I got the timing back to the correct mark. This was last year. It has never felt like it's right since. I don't have a lot of faith in my dealer, and he's the only one close. I also don't have many specialty tools or much in the way of money. Is there an easy way for me to verify the timing is set correctly without a bunch of tools? What are the symptoms if the timing is too far advanced/retarded? Let me thank you guys in advance for the help, you're always really helpful, especially to an idiot like me who just can't leave well enough alone. | ||
| Ryker77 |
I'm curious as well? | ||
| Typeone |
I used Steve-O's (2k4xb12) method for checking/setting the static timing on my 12. Not sure if the process is exactly the same on the 9. Here's his original post with details, worked like a charm! I checked my timing because of a consistent ping I had at ~3800 - 4000 RPM. My timing was set too advanced. --- 2k4xb12 posted --- I did a writeup in the knowledge vault a while back. Here's the link: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/78049.html?1096725661 About halfway down the page, look for my post. If you don't want to take the time to click and look, here's the text: There's been discussion lately about the ability to adjust static timing without the need to hook the bike up to the Digital Technician. It can be done, and it's really quite a simple process. Here's how to do it on an XB -- not sure how similar the other models are in terms of wire colors, etc. but the process should be the same. 1. Rear up on stand. 2. Remove seat. 3. Remove timing mark inspection plug. 4. Gently pry back the silicon rubber seal to gain access to the terminals of the gray connector on the ECM. You'll need to stab your DMM leads in from the back, and this makes it easier. 5. Set DMM to read DCV, 20V range. Insert black DMM probe into pin 7 (black wire with white tracer) and red DMM probe into pin 3 (if I recall correctly -- anyway, it's the green wire with the white tracer) 6. Sidestand up, key on, ignition switch on, transmission in 5th gear. You should hear fuel pump come on and then time out. 7. Looking through the timing mark inspecion hole, turn the rear wheel in a forward direction until the timing mark is visible at the left edge of the hole. You should see zero (or close to it) volts on the DMM. If you see +5V, then you're at TDC for the rear cylinder -- rotate the wheel until you see the mark again. 8. The meter should change from 0 to +5V just as the timing mark passes the center of the hole. As a bonus, the fuel pump comes on at the same instant, providing audible feedback as well. Turn the wheel slowly, and if you overshoot the mark, back it up until the mark is again at the left edge, and then go forward. Don't try to check/adjust it while turning the wheel backwards. 9. If the timing is advanced (transition occurs before center), nudge timing plate CCW. If the timing is retarded (transition occurs after the mark passes center), nudge the plate CW. If, as the other thread suggested, somebody wanted to connect an LED to monitor this transition, you could easily hook it up as follows: Connect a 330 ohm dropping resistor to the anode side of an LED. Hook the other end of the resistor to the green/white wire of the CMP sensor(pin 3, gray connector at the ECM). Hook the cathode of the LED to the black/white wire of the CMP sensor (pin 7, gray connector at the ECM). Using the above instructions, the LED would be off with the timing mark at the left edge of the hole with the front cylinder before TDC. It should then transition to ON just as the timing mark passes the center of the hole. Additionally, both techniques can be employed by making your connections at the CMP sensor connector. I chose to probe the ECM connector because there you don't need to remove any trim pieces or cut any wire ties to access the proper wires. (Message edited by typeone on July 17, 2005) (Message edited by typeone on July 17, 2005) | ||
| Sped214 |
Very nice. Thank you so much! | ||
| Sped214 |
OK, this may be a stupid question, but theoretically, could i hook a timing light to the front cylinder, and run it, viewing through the timing inspection hole, adjusting the timing dynamically until the line is directly in the center? | ||
| Buellistic |
So you set the timing with the front cylinder timing mark just coming into the rear of the timing plug hole ... IS THAT CORRECT ??? | ||
| Typeone |
Sped214, I'm not sure if you installed a sight-glass type plug on your bike but DO NOT run the motor with your stock timing plug removed... you'll have a horizontal Ol Faithful on your hands  |
