| Author | Message | ||
     Blake |
Redress, knurl, and/or oversize bearing OD. should be no big deal Rocketbrother. I'm just wondering how in the hell the bearing can spin in the first place!? That is freaky. Seems like the bearings (the actual rollers themselves) and/or the races would need to be buggered to allow the bearing assy to spin inside the hub. What did your bearings look like? Blake | ||
| Ralph |
Jason, yup. It can get you by with aluminum but I'd wouldn't bother with magnesium. The only repair would be a sleeve. With the kind of money Rocket can throw around, I'm sure he'll just have it replaced  Speaking of which, good luck Rocket. I'm sure they'll help you out. Either that or we'll all join arms and boycott Dymag. bighairyralph | ||
| Rocketman |
No one boycott Dymag on my behalf. They've done me proud and I've got the wheels I want. I've always said one of the major reasons for buying the Buell was its fantastic look, so it was a concern to be buying CF Dymags without knowing what they were gonna look like fitted. They are just so aggressive looking. They're truly awesome and I like so much the way they've added to the Streetfighter look better than I could have imagined. Now I've ridden the Alps, I'm thinking they work too, but I aint no Carl Foggarty. I called Dymag today, and I told them some Badweb friends were taking the pi$$ suggesting the belt was to tight. "No problem, send in the wheel and we might be able to fit an alloy spacer. Yeah we can have a look at the pulley too. You need a new pulley at right money ? Ring ***** at W**** HD and tell him I said to give you a good price." Anyways, it seems they're use to the situation and are dealing f.o.c. Good place And no I don't have a s h i t load of money to throw at my Buell, I'm just the complete opposite to the kind of dork that gets legged in by one shop for a truck load of mods then goes to another shop and spends his access card to the limit trying to sort the first shops s h i t, only to get back a pile of S for s h i t Buell to park in his garage , and one that he can't sell. No no, I'm much more resourceful than that, and still broke, unlike the other dork, but at least I got a s h i t kicking S1W with a pair of carbon Dymags that eats ZX 9's for breakfast ! Rocket in England | ||
| Doc5339 |
Has anyone installed dual-disc front brakes-if so, what kind? | ||
| Jerome |
Rocket : after having fun over 2500 miles on the great curvy roads of the french Alps and the Cote d'Azur, what's your feeling regarding the Avon Azarro ? How would you compare them with the D207 ? Grip, dry versus wet, how long they last... I'm eating my new D207 pretty fast (damn curvy roads of the french Alps...) and I wonder if I'll not try the Azarros next time. Thanks in advance for your input. | ||
| Leeaw |
I was wondering if there was a replacement to the rear rotor screws like I got when I upgraded to the 2000 rotor? The stock ones suck. Can you switch to Torx heads? | ||
| Jmartz |
So, Rocket: Dymag is going to repair the magnesium hub of your $2200 rear wheel. I personally dislike repairs intensly as they never ever approach replacement. I would hope Dymag installs a new hub in your wheel after all isn't Mg sort of soft and fragile? Any failure you wheel has suffered has to have been a factory or manufacturing or assembly matter as you have only used those wheels a few scanty miles, even if they were mostly on that wheel alone. Jose | ||
| Jmartz |
Report on the Ferodo BrakeTech rotor for Buells. I have put about 175 miles on this rotor since I installed it. Cheers: The part is exquisitely made, finshed and is lighter than stock. It is a bit pricey but well worth the increase in trick factor. The blade is true and will not cause pulsations under severe braking. Braking efficiency in normal riding is no better than stock. Next time I come down Ga 129 with it on most of the time I'll will report back. Jeers: The pads are noisy (I can hear scratching when I cut the motor on my way to a stop) perhaps because of their high metallic content. Floating play causes the the rotor to make a rather annoying noise at idle. Part gets a solid B in my book and I would buy it w/o ? over the factory 2000 style SS unit. | ||
| Dark_Ninja |
Jmartz, How $$$ did you spend and does Ferodo have a website? Despite what Blake sez (lptthhhh) It's my rotor that's causing the annoying rattle problem. The Buell '01 rotor is on backorder 'till July (there's ONE thing I am pretty sure ain't changin' on the new Buell, the timing seems RATHER conspicous to me) and the rattle is driving me NuTz! | ||
| Dark_Ninja |
Oh yeah Blake, I follow your math pretty good (physics GOOD, slide rules BAD...he he he) Here's where I get lost. If the rattle is being caused by the brake PADS rattling in the caliper then common sense sez' that holding the rotor steady should have no or very little impact on the AMOUNT of rattle. It should change the f (measured in khz) of the sound, but it should NOT affect the actual frequency of OCCURENCE. Look at it this way. If the rotor is actually holding steady and the rattle is caused by brake pads slopping (is that a word?) into the caliper OR by the brake pads slopping (there's that word again!) into the rotor itself, then holding the rotor will just serve to dampen the sound a bit NOT change the frequency of the two masses bumping into each other. Ergo, the rotor is moving...perhaps in addition to those pesky brake pads doin' a tango in the caliper. And here's my TRUMP card (or two) the new rotor's are like the rock of Gibralter, NO movemement whatsoever. My rotor probably has 1/4" of play in it...mine rattles and new one's don't! Hey Jmartz, does your new rotor assembly rattle? Okay, you may now beat me like a red headed step child for being stupid...but this is how my brain seeeeeeeezzzzz it. :D | ||
| Jmartz |
DN: The website is Braketech.com, prices are displayed. The rotor is about $350, more than double the Buell and nearly double the EBC. Yes it rattles at idle, something that has me abit worried. My original Buell rotor took 5000 miles to beging making noise. That noise, however, was obviously a "something is broken" noise. The Ferodo noise is a "this is how we made it" noise. | ||
| Dark_Ninja |
Jmartz, Well gee, that put a giant hole in the theory I was building against blake! Thanks for the info though! | ||
| Blake |
DN: Did you check it like I suggested? Grabbing the rotor on my '97 M2 will stop the clatter too. When you grab the rotor, your arm's mass is added to the vibrating assy and changes/dampens the vibration. If you look at my front brake pads when the bike is idling/rattling it is very obvious that the loose pads are causing the rattle. Like I said before, the new '99+ models have retaining springs to keep the pads from rattling. If the rotor were rattling, it would have to have radial (specifically fore/aft perpendicular to the forks) play as opposed to transverse (parallel to front axle), since there is negligible/no vibration in that axis. If your rotor has enough radial play to clatter that much, it is most likely no good. I assume you mean that you can flex the rotor 1/4" transversely; that's not a problem; it's a floating disk assy with springs to keep the disk nominally centered. If your disk has 1/4" of radial slop, it is totally gone/ruined and a danger to your life. Let us know what you find. I have a dig camera on the way and will take pics this weekend to better illustrate my lame attempts above to describe this issue. Blake | ||
| Rocketman |
Jerome : I was surprised to read elsewhere on the board that you were at Croix. Hein told me you couldn't make it. You're not the first person to ask about the Azaro's. Hell, truth is, I can't tell the difference. They certainly ain't lasting any longer. 3000 miles on the rear is gonna be max !!! However, in the UK they are 300FF (£30) cheaper than the opposition. They are also the only tyre to be TUV approved for the Buell in Germany. If you do decide to buy the Azaro's be careful with the rim size for the rear. 5.5 and 6.0 inch rims have an A and a B profile. Make sure you buy the correct Azaro as the high performance one is more suited to Jap bikes due to its more "pointed" profile. Hey dude, you live in paradise. I like that part of France near Pontarlier. From there to Grenoble to Sisteron, awesome !!!!!! Shame my dad's home is near Mt St Michael. Jose : I can't say for sure what caused the failure. I know when I fitted the bearings and spacers, all supplied new with the wheels, they went in easy. Maybe the tolerances with magnesium are a "cats cock hair" different, I dunno. I was under the impression that magnesium was a tough metal although I don't know if it is soft but it certainly doesn't appear to be a soft metal. In the case of the carbon wheels the hub is actually two sides bolted together and bonded, trapping the carbon wheel in-between. If it requires a new hub, it will only need the drive side. You should have seen how much play had worn between the bearing and the hub. Wow, I tell ya, it must be at least a 1/4 inch or more. Anyways, Dymag 'll get it in the morning and I'm sure they're happy to sort it. They really are a genuinely helpful company. No questions asked, just send it back, we'll fix it. Rocket in England | ||
| Chuck |
Dark Ninja is almost as "sick" as Blake  | ||
| Jerome |
Rocket : thanks for the input. I don't know if the Azarro is cheaper than the D207 here in France but I'll check soon (too much fun on the french Alps curves means most of the rubber goes on the ground...). I have the PM 5.5 rear wheel so I should go for the A profile. Nop, couldn't do it to Croix. Next time hopefully... Yeah man, paradise is a correct word about the roads here. They help to keep the tire profile rounded... :-)) Tell your dad to buy a house in the Cote d'Azur countryside... | ||
| Court |
Dark Ninja: You want a new set of Buell drive pins? Think that'd help? If so, e-mail me and I'll fire a set off to you. Court | ||
| Court |
I'm in Love...... BUELL
| ||
| Stevep |
Court, My front roter has too much lateral play after 16500miles. I have ordered the pins, washers, bolts, and nuts. Is there a part for the complet kit? I will let you know the cost and delivery time for your files. Iam told that it should take a week to get them here in Belgium. SteveP | ||
| Jmartz |
Not new to the world of "aftermarket product dissatisfation" I really don't know how much more of this I can take. I thought I was buying the best brake rotor out there from a company with a very good reputation. This Ferodo rotor has over .040 rotational play. The 1/2 circles in the carrier are tight but in the blade they are way too big. This causes a loud and annoying rattle at idle. This movement is in resonce with idle frequencies only. The exact same problem existed in my original rotor except it was the carrier 1/2 circles that became enlarged by 5000 miles. The carrier material in a stock rotor is a casting and not hard anodized so the buttons would pound it during braking and eventually enlarge them. I quieted the noise by adding a second spring washer to the front side of the button, a fix that lasted until the present milage of 38,500 miles. I still had quite a bit of rotational slap. The Ferodo has significant rotational slap and its noisy. It does brake well but for nearly $400 I wanted all my brake problems eliminated. | ||
| Court |
I'd be certain to let Ferrodo know. SteveP: PLEASE....keep NOTES (not vauge memories...they get me introuble with folks who'd like to strangle me) I mean jot down the time you ordered, who you talked to, the P/N etc. HINT: INSURE your dealer actually placed the order. The #1 (or at least in the Top 3) reason for poor Buell parts delivery is orders that, when we start to track them, never existed in the first place. BUT COURT....HOW CAN THAT HAPPEN: At least one dealer I know of in my area has a "sheet". If you order a Buell part, well you've populated ONE line on the form. When the sheet is FULL, the order goes to SPOC. Wanna take a guess how long it takes to gather orders for 25 individual Buell parts? SUGGESTED ACTION: Be proactive. Polite, persistent yet proactive. If you get in a bind and need the part quickly, let me know. I stock them and they are on sale for 3 patches per set. Court | ||
| Dark_Ninja |
Court, Let's try 'em. Certainly can't HURT. Although I don't know for sure when I will get a chance to try them out. Depends on how damaged me and the bike are after last nights highside. Anyone care to take a guess why the handlebars are no longer straight after last nights fun? They are cocked to the left, but for the life of me I can't tell if I bent the bars or twisted the forks in headset. It would appear the right brake lever took most of the force since it is bent to crap and scraped up pretty bad. Of course the rubber boot on the right side view mirror is chewed up too. I dunno if I am as sick as Blake or not, Radio Theory is more my bag...you just have to know some physics in order to muddle through Antenna Design and Wave Propogation. | ||
| Stevep |
Court, I will keep notes. Placed order on Tue. 29 May. Watched as the part numbers were inputted into the computer. The do all their parts orders online in the BENELUX. It took a long time due to losing the network connection and then entering six part numbers for the pins, washers, screws, nuts, and rear break pads. I was told I should have them next Tue. when I come in to get the cylinder head gasket and base gasket replaced. I have lost the link to the database you have for parts orders. Moto Shop Marc Tant has been good to me, they squeeze me in for work when I show up. It gives them a break from installing all that chrome on HDs | ||
| Jmartz |
Just got off the phone with Jeff at Ferodo. He indicated to me that the rotors are set with .040 play and that being intended for racing mainly these tolerances are required for heat expansion. Street sales are fitted with ballerina washers to reduce rattle but not completely eliminate it. Dog doo... For those of you in the market for an aftermarket rotor post your impressions of either EBC or the other brand whose mane escapes me at this time. Jose | ||
| Kevyn |
Hey, I just heard the wildest story: There is a company in Canada offering wheel balancing kits. The kit is basically some sort of glass beads and when inserted into the tire, 'cling' to the casing and balance the wheels...claim that there is static electricity inside the tire and the glass beads somehow are captured and hold the balance for up-to 50 hours. Works best in tires over 15"(thats us!),is reactive to sunlight, works best on rough roads and is sensitive to the relative humidity inside the tire. Dig this! They even have acquired a U.S. Patent on the product! Wow, are these guys great or what?...So what do you all think? Is this a good thing? Worth trying? Kevyn S1 | ||
| Blake |
In my opinion, anything besides air inside my tire is REAL bad news. Any additional mass inside the tire will cause irregular wear and possibly loss of integrity. The whole idea sounds like bunk to me anyway. Only holds balance for 50 hours? Then what? | ||
| Hans |
Kevin: That is nothing compared to my invention: Wonderpaint that dissociates in three colors because of the typical molecular structures and works under influence of brainwaves so that on every surface, except leather, after three hours the Buell logo appears. So pity, the old logo is all what appears, so I am still working on it and then I will acquire U.S Patent....or, maybe better just going to buy the Teamelves Patches. Hans. | ||
| Cap |
I have a Brembo dual disc setup on my Buell. It works awesome and call or email me if you want one. Here are some pictures of the Dual disc setup and my Carbon fiber tank covers.  | ||
| Cap |
Some other photos      | ||
| Ccryder |
Cap: You do some 1st class work. Where did the tank cover come from? THe Brembo's look great and I imagine they are awesome stopping. later Neil S. |
