| Author | Message | ||
     Redster |
I just did my 1000 miles service.Now for some odd reason my clutch is dragging.I adjusted it as per the manual.Still no luck.Let say when my engine is not running and I engage 1st gear and pull the clutch ,when I roll it still engaged and not roll .But when my motor is running When I pull the clutch and put it on gear it's ok.I adjusted the clutch via the primary cover and the adjuster on the cable.Any other tips?I'll take it out for a test ride around the block and see. Redster (Message edited by redster on April 30, 2006) | ||
| Buellistic |
REMEMBER YOU HAVE A WET CLUTCH !!! Did you adjust the clutch by the motors manual ??? Did you the adjust the clutch cable by the motors manual ??? (Message edited by buellistic on April 30, 2006) | ||
| Redster |
I did it as per the manual instructions.When I came back from the test ride it wasn't dragging as much.But I want it right.So anything else I should check?My fluid level is spec.Adjusted the cable and the clutch as the manual says.Tightend the middle screw and then turned it 1/4-12 in counter clockwise.Cable play on the clutch lever is 1/8 inch. | ||
| Jaxxb12r |
So, what exactly is the proper way to adjust the clutch and the cable? When I start to release my clutch lever it only goes about 1.5 inches before it engauges and the bike starts to roll. That seems too soon compared to jap bikes. Or is that ok? | ||
| Jackbequick |
Adjust your primary chain first if it needs to be adjusted. Back off the cable length adjuster enough to make the lever loose and floppy at the bar. Pull the derby cover, remove the spring and locking nut, and turn the adjuster screw several turns clockwise to make sure that the adjusting nut is out of backed off and out of contact. Then turn the adjusting screw counter clockwise until you feel the adjusting nut make light contact. Then turn the screw 1/4 turn clockwise. That is done to unload the bearing on the adjuster screw. Replace the locking nut and spring. If necessary, turn the screw clockwise a little bit more to allow the locking nut to slip into the recess. Adjust the cable length adjuster until the clutch lever is tight again and then squeeze the clutch lever several time to set the clutch mechanism. The final adjustment, for clutch lever freeplay, is made at the ferrule on the end of the clutch cable where it contacts the lever mounting bracket. Pull the ferrule away from the bracket and adjust the cable length until there is a 1/16" to 1/8" gap between the ferrule and the bracket. My experience has been that you have to pull real hard on the ferrule and you want to have the gap at the 1/16" minimum. If you get any pulling or excessive gear clash when dropping into low gear at a rest, lengthen the cable length a little more, like 1/4 turn at a time. You can't make the "clunk" go away but any pulling or loud gear clash means you're not getting enough disengagement on the clutch. I usually take 1/2" and 9/16" wrenches with me on a ride and do the lever freeplay adjusment with the bike all warmed up. After you do that, it will see too tight cool but it will be okay warm. Jack | ||
| Mountainbiker90 |
All clutches work like that, redster. Don't go hunting for something that probably isn't a problem. Try it again when the engine is hot. It will be a lot easier to push the bike around in gear with the clutch in. You can do it when it's cold, too, but you'll have to rock it to break the friction. It is friction between the plates and the oil, believe it or not. | ||
| Redster |
I guess your right.Last night when I got back from meeting a friend I was wheeling it in the garage with the gear engaged and clutching it and it was ok.I re adjusted the cable play today and made it to 1/16(it was 3/8 after I pulled it from the ferrule)But still dragging on gear clutching it.I did push it harder and it moved from the dragging.I'm going for a ride and bring the wrenches and maybe adjust it as I go.Thanks |
