| Author | Message | ||
     Buellistic |
FYI TUNERS: Put an Exhaust Back Pressure Guage on my 1997 S3T with 36K on it. Has factory header and muffler(no mods to ex sys). Running a 30T/61T belt sprockets. At 90MPH gauge indicated 0.4 lbs PSI. Anybody have any coments. In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley | ||
| Marks3tbillet |
Anyone had their header coated by Classic Coatings with the Millenium Chrome? If so, let me know how you like it or do not like it. Thanks, Mark | ||
| Jmartz |
The stuff cleans well, does not fade with heat and looks great. It does scratch rather easily. J | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
YaaaHoooo! I got my Daytona Boss yesterday and it bolted up with no problem. Many thanks to you guys that have done it before me and posted hints. Had the pipe on in less than an hour. I have also noticed a lack of photos of this pipe, so will include one here. I did have problems with the pipe hanging too low in the rear when bolted to the factory mounting hole. A few minutes with a drill and a ratchet got it perfectly straight. (The pictures are taken BEFORE I adjusted the rear bracket) Nice pipe. I reccomend it. Chris  | ||
| Chuck |
Nice job, Chris! Now try to stay out of trouble. There's something about a louder pipe that just makes you want to be bad  | ||
| Leeaw |
Chris, Very sharp! I would assume it sounds as good as it looks? Do you have to drop the pipe to change fluid or adjust the primary? That's the one thing I hate about the V&H. I would also request that if you ever get bored with the PM wheels, my bike is very tired of riding on the stock black rims. | ||
| Y2k01x1 |
has anyone installed the buell race header and the race muffler on a 2001 X1? if so, could you please provide me with the part numbers. my dealer will probably have to order them and i don't trust the parts guys ordering the correct part numbers. does the M2 and S3 use the same part numbers? is the race header and muffler compatible with the new 2001 front muffler bracket? thanx! | ||
| Carbonx1 |
I just picked you a Daytona Boss Exhaust for my 99' X1. Are there any secrets I should know for the installation? I've seen info on an M2 installation being somewhat a headache, but nothing on the X1. Hopefully that means it is a simple replacement. Thanks, Chris | ||
| Chrisx1 |
Y2K: Part numbers are listed as: MUFFLER RACE KIT 91424-99YA 99 and later X1, M2, and S3 models HEADER RACE KIT 65400-99YA 99 and later X1 and S3 models I am still unsure if the above p/n's come with the mounting hardware, anyone care to elaborate. I plan on getting the race header to mount up to my Supertrapp, I have the Race ECM and K&N filter. If you haven't gotten the race ECM, I'd buy the whole race kit, the muffler and header combined cost just about as much as the whole kit, and you get the hardware + filter etc. Only thing is you have to have the TPS zero'd by a dealer w/ a scanalyzer. New bracket works with kit/muffler etc. | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
Chuck, Thanks. I'm trying to stay out of trouble. (I just mailed a check to VA for a ticket I got on the M2) Leeaw, Thanks to you, too. And yes, it sounds SWEET. I thought it would sound like my wife's Sporty, but it ain't even close. Hard to describe the sound, but apparently it sounds even better to spectators. (If I get to the point that I just can't stand those PM wheels any more, I'll let you know.) CarbonX1, Congrats on the Boss! You are going to enjoy it. If you go back and read the archives for March 7,2001 you should have no problem. Read all the posts concerning the Boss, and check out the pictures some nice person took the time to post. If I can help, feel free to ping me. Chris | ||
| Y2k01x1 |
chrisx1: mucho thanx for the pn's for the header and muffler race kits. ordered one of each from my dealer today. muffler kit was $349.95, header kit was $399.95. ouch! they said both could be in as early as friday. can't wait! i'm already running the race ECM with a forcewinder XR2 and a gutted vance&hines but i'm getting the impression that the race header is an absolute necessity. thanks again for the advice. | ||
| Tripper |
You wont regret spending the money. Be carefull rolling on the throttle in low gear, it will loop ya. Have BIG fun! | ||
| Y2k01x1 |
race header and muffler kits should arrive in a few days. is the race header collector 2.5" like the stock header? if so, i'm assuming i will use the same 2.5" torca muffler clamp to attach the race muffler to the race header... also, i suspect that the header nuts on my 2001 X1 are the same ones used on 1200 sportsters. buell pn is DA0500.12FZ. dealer didn't have any. i told them that they might be the same ones used on the sportsters but they weren't interested enough to check for me. parts manual says its a 5/16 - 18. does anyone know for sure? thanx! | ||
| Rippin |
Has anyone had experience with Forces Streetfighter exhaust on '99 and newer M2's or X1's? Thanks Ryan | ||
| Chrisx1 |
Y2K: Let me know if the calmps etc. especially the front "slipper" mount that holds the collector to the front mount, comes with the header itself. If you can post some pics after is together. Chris | ||
| Reepicheep |
Arghh... Somebody needs to talk me off the ledge. My "Friday Buell" is at it again... This time, I noticed it getting awfully loud and pretty rattly... and pulled over. Sure enough, rear exhaust header has separated from the jug. Upon further inspection when I got home, the top stud going out from the jug has been sheared off flush. Arrrghhh. Will this thing just thread out with an easyout, or are they glued / welded / pinned in there somehow? Bottom stud is still there (but looking awfully long and a little beat up). How annoying. I am REALLLY trying to keep a positive attitude here... I will stop typing until I calm down so I don't say something I regret. mumble mumble awfull lot mumble mumble for only 3000 miles mumble mumble mumble... Bill | ||
| Chuck |
Bill, look on the bright side. Now you have an excuse to get that shiny Vance & Hines slip-on you've always wanted.........I assume you're talking about a problem with your stock muffler. If you are...and you want to replace it, just say the word and I will send you the one from my bike for the cost of freight and a Coors long-neck. | ||
| Thunderbolt |
Bill, I think you're talking about the studs in the engine head, right? Well, those studs are 'just' threaded into the head. BUT, the ones I've taken out have all been REAL hard to remove--and they weren't sheared off like yours is. I think your plan is the best one--an easyout. Good luck. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Supertrap failure My beautifully polished Supertrapp has failed at the inlet pipe after about 2000 miles. The inlet pipe is loose where it goes into the can. Bummer. Before I yank it off and start pondering the repair or replace question, I figured I'd ping ya'll and see if anyone else has: 1) experienced this failure (I think i've heard of it before) 2) fixed it by rewelding..possible? I'm not even quite sure how it was held together when it was new at that joint, as I haven't disassembled it yet (just discovered it as I got to work today). 3) received a replacement from Supertrapp..this is my last choice, cuz I'd have to repolish the whole can....they have a deep brushed finish, takes a lot of elbow grease to get this can looking nice and shiny. Any help appreciated. Al | ||
| Chuck |
sorry, Bill. I didn't read very carefully, did I. | ||
| Reepicheep |
It just keeps getting worse and worse. I used about a can of penetrating oil, and lots of propane to heat up the head, and did not go TOO nuts with turning the easyout. The easyout... of course... sheared flush in the bolt... leaving me in about the only situation I could conceive of worse then my original one. Stuck bolt, sheared flush, but now with hardened steel insert. Weep. I am quickly running out of options, and quickly getting pretty depressed. Hope this does not turn out to be the straw that breaks the camels back... I am ready to pull the plates of my one year old buell and switch them to my decade old japanese standard. Its far more reliable. So what now? If I could get the easyout tip out, I could start over with even more heat and even more patience. If I could some how get a notch in both the bolt and the easyout tip, I could try the impact driver. But as it is I am stuck. The last thing I can think of is to remove the rocker box and head completely, and take it to a machine shop, and let them use whatever tricks they can think up... but that sounds like a LOT of work as well, and requres some special sockets for the head bolts. I guess I can truck the whole mess to my dealer and get them to try and work it out... but I have lost confidence in them to even order a part I have asked for, much less do something like this. I am between the proverbial rock and hard place. Sigh. Bill | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Darn, Bill, that really sucks. Has anyone ever successfully removed a failed stud with an easy-out? What happened to you seems to be the usual result, or at least the one we get to hear about. You won't be able to drill out the easy out, don't even try. At least one person that described this before was able to get it out with LOTS of tangential hits of some type or another. Sounded painful. If the head was off, and you took it to a machine shop, they could EDM it out. Pain in the arse. Best solution I can suggest: take a dremel tool with a very small THIN cutoff wheel. Actually, lots of them, you'll need them. Carefully get the end of the stud/easy-out as flat as possible without having to recess it too far, and grind a slot into the bolt/easy-out combo. Try a screwdriver in the slot, but if that doesn't work, go for the tangential hit method. Work slow, don't do more harm than good. I wouldn't worry if you bugger the first thread or two on the head, there's plenty of engagement with a good stud fully seated, but you'll need to chase it with a tap CAREFULLY afterwards. Your biggest problem is going to be that there ain't a heckuva lot of room to do this with the head on the bike. Might not be enough room for the dremel. And once you get it out, replace at least the other stud on the same cylinder too. You can bet it received more stress than it normally would once the first one failed. Double nut it, it'll back right out with less torque than you'd think. After my front muffler mount failed, I know I put at least 300 miles on my S1W with it unsupported. I replaced all 4 studs afterwards so that I wouldn't need to go thru what you are going thru now. Yuck. Good luck. You'll need it. Al | ||
| Thunderbolt |
Bill, that really sucks. I hope I didn't lead you down this path, I'd feel real guilty. I've actually had good luck with easy-outs (2 for 2, knock on wood). It sounds like Al's studs weren't in there very tight. I did the same thing he did to get mine out (double nut 'em), and they were really, really hard to get out with an open-ended wrench. No way mine were going to come out with a screwdriver, even if the 'dremel slot' was perfect. I think maybe that dremel-screwdriver thing might work to get the easy-out out, but not the stud--still worth a try, nothing to lose at this point. I can't help but think the only real solution would be (once the easy-out is gone) to drill out the stud totally. You'll probably have to drill and tap a new, bigger hole, drill a bigger hole in the header flange, and attach it with a bolt...ah, never mind, only I do stupid, elaborate •••• like that. Good luck, Al's right, you're gonna need it. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thunderbolt... You must be pretty lucky... as tight as those bolts are in there, it's hard for me to imagine (in hindsight) how an easyout could ever get the bolt out. And I was thinking about doing EXACTLY what you were suggesting... getting the easy out tip out, drilling as much of the old bolt out as I can get, and tapping a new hole and putting in the next size larger stud. I wonder if I could scare up a stud with a dual diameter.. so that I don't have to modify the header flange. My current plan is to try and find a tip for the dremel tool that will let me get in there and grind an X in the current bolt / easyout mess. I am picturing a small ball tip with some super abrasive or diamond coating. Then use an impact driver with the phillips bit (which I should have tried the first time before going the easy out route) with liberal heat to see if I can get it out. I don't have much experience with an impact wrench... does this even have a prayer of working? When that fails, and i have a mess in the whole, I will use the dremel tool with a simliar bit to excise the easy out bit (if any is left). I guess from there I will just try and drill out the old bolt as much as possible, and get as much out as I can, then retap it to clean out the threads, and maybe get a helicoil put in. This may or may not be possible with the head still on the bike... Seems reasonable to me. The "squareness" of the hole is not ultra-critical, so the fact that I can't align everything perfectly with hand tools should not be a huge deal. I can just make sure the depth of my new hole is less then the current bolt (to make sure I don't drill into something else). Another failure of the existing part would lead to a worse case scenario of exactly what I am facing now as the alternative. When all that fails, I guess the head comes of and goes to a machine shop. Geesh. My dream bike is turning into a nightmare. Bill | ||
| Mikej |
I have used a carbide drill to drill out "easy outs" in the past. Takes a gentle hand, and firm pressure, and a bit of oil, but it does work. A drill press is the best way, but you have to have the head off for that. If you do try drilling with a hand-held drill, try a larger bit first. The larger diameter drill bit will flex less and should give you a good v-pocket to let the proper smaller size drill get down to business. I've seen some ads recently about a "new" type of easyout drill item, but don't know anything more about it. Looked sort of like a spade-shaped drill bit on the end, and I think you use it in a reverse-drive drill motor. Easy-outs are extreamly hard, and as such are extreamly brittle. Let's see, I think I've bought at least a dozen of them in my life, and busted every one. | ||
| Y2k01x1 |
chrisx1: yes, the slipper mount and all necessary hardware is included in the race header kit. ditto for the race muffler kit. installed both on my 01 X1 night before last. difference in rideability/ driveability is awesome. bike pulls way harder in the low to mid range. revs much smoother and easier. the race muffler is rather quiet. quieter than a V&H. too quiet for me although i'm told that they burn out pretty quick. i'd like to shoot the engineers that spec'd out the position for the O2 sensor. interference with the exhaust header stud and nut made it impossible to remove sensor while on bike. had to remove header first, then remove sensor. still was a big pain in the butt. specialized O2 sensor socket i ordered from autotoolexpress.com has not arrived yet. recommend everyone with O2 sensors get one. $13.13 + s&h. pn LIS12100. sorry, no camera...so no pics available. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Went to the Dremel site, then to Lowes... and for $9 they had a high speed diamond coated cutting bit with a very narrow tip that may do the job. I am guardedly optimistic. I will carve a phillips head into the flush bolt / easy out mess, say a few prayers, apply LOTS of heat (wish I could run the bike but there is no exhaust and don't want to burn valves and wake neighbors) and whack away with the impact driver. What I don't understand is why Easy Outs don't either come with a max torque setting and a standard 3/8 drive adapter, or with a deliberately weakened neck near the handle. Either approach would avoid leaving a flush hardened plug in an already problematic bolt. Idiots. Bill | ||
| Thunderbolt |
Bill, in hindsight, I would agree that you stood almost no chance of getting the stud out with an easyout. Easyouts aren't threaded like a bolt though, it SHOULD come out rather easily, I would think. I can see why you're frustrated, but I don't think the easyout being stuck is that big of a deal (famous last words). Your odds of finding a dual diameter post in the right size (diameterS, lenghthS) with the right threads, is, I think, near zero. I think your best bet is to call that buddy with access to a machine shop, or use a bolt and modify the flange (I can't picture how much 'extra' material is on the flange right now). Either way, keep your head up. This is a straightforward problem, not like a fulie glitch or something else that's hard to track down. Once it's fixed properly, it should be fixed permanently | ||
| Buellzebub |
rather than getting complicated with stepped studs... how about using a helicoil insert in the oversize hole then you can use a standard stud as a replacement | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thanks for talking me down... I am calming nicely  And now that I know it is pretty easy to find dremel bits that are hard enough to go through the hardened steel of the easy out bit, I am less uptight about that as well. On the Buell yahoogroups mailing list (before they made me shut up and go away ), Dusty from Custom Chrome (I think) indicated that he had a part that bolts to the remaining stud, and works as a drill guide to drill out the stuck stud. Great idea. If it is precise enough (and no reason why it would not be), then it likely will remove most of the old offending bolt, and allow me to just thread in a tap to clear the existing threads. So things are looking much more hopefull at this point... thanks for all the help. My sheared stud is the rear right.... had it been the rear left, there is not much that can be done without removing the heads, which ranks pretty high on the old hassle-meter. And for everyone else... I would strongly recommend adding a finger check for these bolts to your pre-ride checklist, and seriously consider the updated exhaust mount, possibly with Loki's extra support bracket. When these studs shear, it is at the very least a royal pain in the *$#, and could easily become an expensive royal pain in the &^%! Bill | ||
| Treich |
Anybody know where this exhaust setup comes from? I found it on Jokermachine.com  | ||
| Jmartz |
Treich: I don't think it was ever produced. There is one inherent problem in such a design, the motor moves uniplanarly so that if the can is rigidly mounted to the frame (notice the mount to the passenger triangle) undue stress will resonate through the structure. A flexible joint will have to be incorporated such as in the early turbo systems for S2's Jose | ||
| Buelliedan |
Treich and Jmartz, That exhaust was going to be made by White Bros and Tat at ASB was going to be selling it but it was discontinued before it ever was made available if I remember Tat's story correctly. Seems like White Bros had some financial difficulties so they decided to only concentrate on certain exhausts that could be easily produced. I believe the company was bough out by another company. | ||
| Ccryder |
That S1 exhaust was a prototype by White Brothers. From my W.B. source they told me that the economics were not there and "Marketing" squashed the program. That was the financial difficulty. Any new program goes through many reviews before it goes to production. One of the most difficult reviews is pricing and cost. This project could not meet the costs so the price point was missed. Neil S. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Neil, I'm glad I was close with the facts. Did White Bros get bought by another company? | ||
| Roc |
If priced competitively I would buy one. | ||
| Ccryder |
Buelliedan: Not to my knowledge. What did you hear? Roc: I tried to find out the price myself and all that was said was their cost was 50% over what they thought retail should be. Don't know the details but it seemed like a lot of short bits welded together and then hand fitted. It is a neat concept but JMartz noted it had some design flaws or at least some design features that are not evident in this photo. Later Neil S. | ||
| Skulley |
Lets just say, For Looks! Picture the above bike with a left exit exhaust as pictured, but only from the front cylinder. Other side matching, From the rear cylinder.??? Then put the fairings off the Warr's bike on my bike in the profile.. Te hee.. | ||
| Raymaines |
FWIW: the above pictured exhaust system is a two into one system and was listed in the ASB catalog @ $520 for Aluminum and $620 for CF. Looks like it would have been a huge pain to install. I've been off roading with my M2 and still didn't need additional ground clearance. |
