| Author | Message | ||
     Mbsween |
Well I guess all those wheelies (semi professional rider on semi closed course of course  ) have taken their toll. i noticed a lot of vibration in the bars on deceleration lately. A visual check of the upper isolator shows a big tear in the back. The service manual covers the topic as part of the engine removal. I wondering if I can remove just the front isolator without doing the rest of the engine removal steps (dropping the exhaust, throttle body, battery, tie bars etc) Would it be possible to just support the engine, remove the isolator hardware (and the bits necessary to gain access) lower the engine enough to remove the isolator then replace? And on the subject of replacing, should I replace the hardware or use the existing stuff ? Thanks matt | ||
| Buellistic |
Mbsween: If you are a "MECHANIC" all you need is TWO CAR BODY STANDS and a SMALL HYD. JACK ... All the "BUELLschitte" to do thats in the FACTORY MOTORS MANUAL does not need to be done ... If you want me to talk you through it, FEEL FREE to call (813) 661-2664 EST ... In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Bomber |
MB -- LaFayette's got it right -- no need to drop anything to R&R the front ISO -- me, I used new hardware -- seemed like cheap insurance | ||
| Mbsween |
LaFayette, Thanks for clearing that up. I have all the tools you mention, plus the ability to support the bike from the ceiling if necessary. Alright to call you between 6 - 7 pm tonight? Bomber, I agree, just didn't want to buy stuff that isn't necessary. the middle bolt is a pretty hefty piece. So just to get started, put the bike on stands, support motor with hyd jack remove gas tank etc unbolt center isolator bolt unbolt upper bolts lower engine enough to remove isolator and reverse to replace sound about right? | ||
| Mikej |
Uh, just a thought, but for me I prefer a small screw-type jack over the small hydraulic type as it allows me a finer adjustment when lowering instead of having to regulate the pressure release valve. If the small hydraulic jack is new and if the valve knob is good sized or a tight fit to a wrench then the hyd. jack is fine. YMMV and post pics of how it goes as I'm soon to do this to two bikes. | ||
| Djkaplan |
And on the subject of replacing, should I replace the hardware or use the existing stuff ? When I got a new front isolator from American Sport Bike, it came complete with new hardware. | ||
| Mbsween |
Dj, did you order part 17025? | ||
| Bomber |
Ms -- yep, your truncated procedure is spot on -- you won't have to lower the mill much to get the iso out -- Note Bene -- you are likely to need crow's foot socket to torque the upper bolts -- | ||
| Mbsween |
Bomber, Thanks, luckily I have a full range of crows feet. I'm a craftsman junkie! | ||
| Bomber |
good man! | ||
| Djkaplan |
"Dj, did you order part 17025?" Yeah, but now that I think about it, I also ordered a front mount fastener kit because I was also installing an NRHS front engine mount. I think 17025 only comes with the small fasteners that mount the isolator to the frame, not the big one. "I have a full range of crows feet. I'm a craftsman junkie!" My addiction has spread to the Dremel section of Sears... | ||
| Road_thing |
Crow's feet? Sure, I've got 'em... ...but hey, I'm almost 55! rt | ||
| Bomber |
punk | ||
| Road_thing |
Eh? Didja say somethin', there, Q-Tip? | ||
| Buellistic |
Mbsween: 24/7 as long as it is AFTER 9AM, "BUT" BEFORE 9PM ... | ||
| Mbsween |
Lafayette, Thanks, I have the part on the way. I should have it early next week . I'll call you to make sure I have the correct procedure matt | ||
| Mbsween |
Okay, so the procedure is almost done. Well actually it is, but I thought I'd check a couple things out. The manual is pretty sketchy on the topic, or I'm just reading it wrong. I couldn't find two things 1) the torque setting for the two bolts on the side. I used 33 ft-lbs as a guess 2) What type of Locktite (blue, red?) on the center bolt. I was able to break this one with some effort with a 2 foot breaker bar. I thought it would have been harder with locktite (red) on it. I'm glad I got around to this one, the tear was much bigger than I thought. Worse it was about 1/2 way through the isolator. The pick shows new and old. On the old I traced the tear with a sort of parallel red line.  | ||
| Mbsween |
And here's one of the bike on the stands with the screwjack (liberated from a minivan) You can ssee that exposing a pitbull stand to salt isn't the greatest idea in the world!  (Message edited by mbsween on April 16, 2006) | ||
| Bomber |
MS -- I THINK the torques specs are in there somewhere -- I remember using them when I did the front ISO R&R on the MaDeuce . . . also, I'd be careful about using the muffler as a jacking point -- of course, my bike's original appetite for exhaust studs may have cause paranoia ;-} | ||
| Mbsween |
Bomber, The pic doesn't show it well, but the block is under the front shock mount, not the muffler (which is actually off, figured I change the primarily fluid while I had it on the stands). I found the torque for the center bolts (100 - 110) but nothing for the little(r) ones to the side. They're the same size as the tie-bar bolts, thats where I came up with the 30 ft-lbs number. So do you remember using any locktite on the center bolt? At 110 ft-lbs of torque, I have a hard time believing it will come loose. Though I'm sure I could be wrong. Hate to find out the hard way! Matt | ||
| Mbsween |
Okay, now I went and did it. I thought I was going to have to lower the engine during this procedure, so I cut the zip ties and disconnected the wiring connectors (anticipating that I might put undue strain on them) Now when all is back together, I hit the starter button, the relay clicks, then nothing. Everything was fine prior to disconnecting them. Anything easy I'm missing? | ||
| Bomber |
Mb -- sorry bout the post, bud -- just tryin to save some self-inlficted grief ;-} I'm sure your right on the loctite issue, but I'm a loctite junkie . . . as for your starter issue, I'd start at the ground connectors -- they always gie a fella fits |
