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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Chassis » Frame, Engine Mounts and Steering Head » Archive through November 30, 2007 » Torque spec for front mount « Previous Next »

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Ded
Posted on Monday, March 27, 2006 - 11:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

'97 S3T recall front mount. What is the correct torque spec for the 2 bolts in the head on the front isolator mount? The shop manual says 100-110 ftlbs but I'm not sure if I'm reading it right.
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Blake
Posted on Tuesday, March 28, 2006 - 11:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ed,

No, that torque spec is for the single isolator bolt that connects the bracket to the frame via the steel reinforced rubber isolator donut.

The specified torque for each of the "Front isolator to cylinder head bolts" is 73-78 ft-lbs.

One thing to check, especially when reinstalling the original bolts is to ensure that they do not bottom out in the tapped holes prior to reaching the specified torque. That is rumored to be one of the main causes of failure for that mounting bracket and/or for the bracket itself.

How would you check such a thing?

I would do it by counting the number of turns by hand that are required to bottom the bolt out in each tapped hole. Obviously, you would do this without the bracket in place.

Then when assembling the bracket, I would be very careful to count how many turns into the cylinder head were made. If it takes more turns than required for bottoming out the bolt by hand, you'll want to trim/file off the ends of the offending bolt as required.

Cleanliness of mating surfaces (no oily residue even) is all-important as well, as is proper use of the red loctite. : )

The reason for the bolt over-length problem may be due to too long of a bolt coupled with the fact that the bolt may have been stretched when originally installed, which is often normal for high strength bolts.
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Ded
Posted on Tuesday, March 28, 2006 - 06:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Blake, I thought that sounded to high for that size bolt in aluminum. I have new bolts, but will check bolts for bottoming and loctite. So you recommend red, was always afraid of using red in aluminum.
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, March 29, 2006 - 02:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Service manual calls for red and I agree that it is definitely warranted there.

What grade of bolt did you obtain? Never mind if you obtained the Buell part from your dealer. You are good to go then. : )

Good idea on the bolt length check too, even for new bolts. : )
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Ded
Posted on Wednesday, March 29, 2006 - 10:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The recall kit came with the isolator and new bolts and locknut for the big bolt. The bolts came within about a thread and a half from bottoming. Put a new rubber mount in as the old one was starting to tear. Eliminated the snorkel in the airbox and ran breathers up over the top and down by left foot peg. Did the carb mods too. All back together and my son will run it to work tomorrow and see how it works. It's his first bike that he actually owns, not his first ride.

"ONE OF THE MOST DANGEROUS THINGS IN THE WORLD IS A HARLEY-DAVIDSON TECHNICIAN WORKING ON
A BUELL !!!"
Hey, I resemble that remark!!!!
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