| Author | Message | ||
     Skyguy |
Went down the hill today to finally put tires on my bike (conti road attack) and after pulling the front tire off I discovered the XB has a built in steering dampener! Rather than the front end flopping around it is kind of stiff and when it gets close to center it goes there all by itself! Very cool, should keep the tank slappers to a minimum............. | ||
| Moonrunrs |
Americansportbike.com sells a dampener for the XB. Is this item useless and just redundant then? | ||
| Skyguy |
If your steering bearings are as shot as mine you do not need a dampener................. | ||
| Blake |
Your bike has something that keeps your steering moist? Sounds like you need a bit more compression damping on the front, maybe stiffer springs. On account of you've hurt your steering bearings, most likely from bottoming out the front suspension, hard. American Sport Bike sells steering dampers. Not sure where you can find a steering dampener. Damp (verb): To deaden, restrain, or discourage. Damper (noun): one that deadens, restrains, or discourages; a device that eliminates or progressively diminishes vibrations or oscillations Dampener (noun): a device that dampens or moistens something; "he used a dampener to moisten the shirts before he ironed them" [syn: moistener] Sorry to nit pick, just one of those all too common engineering misnomers that is a pet peeve of mine. Help me educate the rest of the world? ![: ]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) | ||
| Freyke |
Like they said, if it (the steering head) self centers or clicks into position you've likely got head bearing issues... Wheelies tend to aggravate the problem... | ||
| Chadhargis |
Blake: I've seen that mistake so many times that I stopped correcting people. I have a friend who swears he can set his "rebound and compression dampening". I just bite my tongue and grin.  On the topic, the XBs don't have a damper of any sort. As has already been mentioned, your bearings are most likely shot. | ||
| Diablobrian |
I think he was joking about it having a built in damper. He alludes to the bearings being shot in his second post. | ||
| Kdan |
I dated a girl once that had a built in dampener. | ||
| Jlnance |
And you let her get a way? | ||
| Ratyson |
My rear tire acts as a back dampener when it rains. | ||
| Skyguy |
I am a 140 lb ridr and the I am going to do a fron tear down next week and I have am going to add thicker oil than stock. even when the bike was nearly new with 2,000 miles I always thought the front dove to mch under braking. I would love to hear from the folks that have spent some time dialing in the front though. Especialy if you are "light" (okay skinny). Ciao. (Message edited by Blake on March 27, 2006) | ||
| Skyguy |
Dont nedd no stinking speel chacker. | ||
| Daves |
I sell the LSL damper for 305.95 if anyone want/needs one | ||
| Mountainbiker90 |
on bicycles i've heard that called indexed steering. you can point the bars in one direction and they'll stay there in the little 'groove.' yeah, time for some new headset bearings. i had to do mine. they aren't hard to change and cost a whole $6 or so each. they're quality.. i don't think i'd increase the fork viscosity. i weigh about what you do. i run 6 lines, but that is preload, not damping. you could try increasing preload to combat brake dive, and reducing compression damping a touch. i'd just recommend increasing the damping and leaving the preload alone. there's not a lot you can do for the brake dive. | ||
| Diablobrian |
Or you could call it digital steering. dial in three clicks to the right or two clicks to the left...... | ||
| Bikoman |
Skyguy said: I am a 140 lb rider and the The six lines would be preload, add compression (valve at bottom of fork) to slow dive, I would stick with stock oil, that is what the valving was set for, otherwise have your forks re-vavled and then use different oil. At your weight, you should not have 6 lines of preload set? John (Message edited by Blake on March 27, 2006) | ||
| Skyguy |
Sorry I mistyped that. I have the preload and the rest of the suspension set at the exact settings per the chart for aggresive riders. I have always thought This makes me think it is an oil needs changing thing. (Message edited by Blake on March 27, 2006) | ||
| Slaughter |
Skyguy, Try adjusting your preload by measuring it directly instead of using the lines: Have a couple buddies help you lift the bike up so the suspension is totally extended and measure between a couple points that are easy to reach and read. Then sit on the bike with all your gear... kinda wiggle around to overcome stiction - and measure again (feet on the pegs) - you should see about 35mm front and about 25mm rear "sag." Start with the DAMPING settings per Higbee's tables and make small adjustments from there. I've heard all sorts of problems with people setting preload using the number of rings. It's a simple way to get close but still leaves some room for error. Setting preload by measuring sag works for ANY bike and ANY springs. If you find you can't set preload to those numbers, you need different springs. | ||
| Skyguy |
Slaughter, I used the measurements you gave me awhile ago. Sag is set perfect. I am just having a hard time with (Message edited by Blake on March 27, 2006) | ||
| Slaughter |
Sorry about that... I kinda forget who I told about what and when. Getting old sucks! | ||
| Old_man |
Skyguy, do you have the compression damping set to its firmest setting, If not, I would try a firmer setting before I changed to a thicker oil. | ||
| Rpmchris |
The LSL steering damper is one of my favorite mods. Really helps, especially at higher speeds, in high crosswinds, and when passing high-profile vehicles (trucks) at speed. |
