| Author |
Message |
    
Joplin
| | Posted on Monday, August 11, 2003 - 09:13 pm: | 
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Okay,,,,,,"Permatex medium strength threadlocker blue automotive grade" for ALL the rockerbox cover bolts? And do y'all use the "surface prep activator?" Really want put this together tonite. How clean do the threads of the head need to be? Like completly de-greased with isopropyl? Or just clean.? I have never used the threadlock stuff,,,,lol....thanks ,,,JM} |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Monday, August 11, 2003 - 11:39 pm: |
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Jop,
I've never used the activator for RB gaskets.
Just clean them with a wire brush and a bit of carb cleaner. Then apply the "magic blue juice".
I spray the carb cleaner into the bolt holes, then hit it with a blast of air to dry it out.
Just put a rag around the bolt hole to ceep the carb cleaner and crud from blowing places you dont want.
As long as you don't have them really dirty the Loctite does a good job.
As usual, YMMV.
Brad |
Joplin
| | Posted on Monday, August 11, 2003 - 11:46 pm: |
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Thanks Brad,,,is that the right stuff? It doesnt actually say "loctite." and damn if I can figure out "YMMV",,,lol
jm |
Mikej
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2003 - 08:27 am: |
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jm,
Loctite is a brand name, as is Permatex. When you hear someone say loctite it's like saying coke for soda. That's why Permatex can't call itself "loctite", regardless of the color/type/use.  |
Joplin
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2003 - 08:53 am: |
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Mike,,,thanks, figured as much but didnt see any loctite in my parts store trip and wanted to make sure there wasnt any Buell hoodoo going on there,,,
jm |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2003 - 02:17 pm: |
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Jop,
Your Mileage May Vary
That's in case any lawyers are lurking..... ">
edited by bluzm2 on August 12, 2003 |
Joplin
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2003 - 08:56 pm: |
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hehe,,, guess an old tradesman wouldnt figure that one out,,, plus dont think we have those (lawyers) back in the woods where i grew up. jm |
Wannabebum
| | Posted on Monday, November 17, 2003 - 01:53 pm: |
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I know that there is some special cut down tool that I need to take the rocker boxes off with the engine in the bike. Can some one tell me where to find one. Its some kind of cut down allen wrench. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, November 17, 2003 - 04:59 pm: |
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You can find one at any store with:
a) An allen wrench (the old fashioned L shaped piece of metal type)
b) A hack saw or other cutoff tool
If you want the super premium model, find a store that also has:
c) a file.
You don't have to cut it down far, it is still perfectly usable everywhere else. Just cut down the one in your tool box. I did it with a hack saw, but have since acquired a cut off tool that would have done the job in a fashion much more interesting to my 5 year old (who likes the sparks).
Still use the thing everywhere else as well, never felt limited by the fact that it was short.
Do disconnect the battery though. I never do, and always end up welding some part of the rocker box sandwich before I am done. You would think I would learn... |
Moltons3
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 2004 - 06:31 pm: |
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Hello I noticed today my rocker boxs are leaking on my 99 S3. Anyone got a part # for the gaskets and should you replace the upper and lower? Is this a hard job?
Thanks in advance
Wade |
Shotgun
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 2004 - 08:45 pm: |
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Molton, get the kit, it includes gaskets for both heads, umbrella valves, everything you need. |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 2004 - 10:33 pm: |
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Make sure the kit has the steel gaskets, not the old paper ones. |
Moltons3
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 24, 2004 - 10:37 pm: |
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OK thanks do you guys have a part #?
Wade |
Shotgun
| | Posted on Friday, August 27, 2004 - 07:46 pm: |
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Wade, you probably have it already but the kit is: "17036-91 Gasket Kit, Rocker C" cost $34.10
This is the new style gaskets, good stuff. |
Mgray87
| | Posted on Saturday, September 11, 2004 - 12:21 pm: |
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Having problems with my rocker boxes too (2004 HD 1200 Roadster)...Have replaced both upper and lower seals a few times each (of course, using prescribed torque values and patterns etc), and continue to see leakage from the top boxes...Even after re-torquing). Almost seems the boxes are mating before the quad rings are compressed enough to form a good seal. No leakage from the chimney gaskets though. Have been advised by some to use Hylomar on the rubber quad rings, but most people frown and shake their heads at the mention. (Would be covered by warranty, but my powertrain warranty was voided by a local independent shop here in Denver Area...E-mail me for details if interested in that part of the story.)
Any ideas?
(Message edited by mgray87 on September 11, 2004) |
Bluelightning
| | Posted on Monday, September 13, 2004 - 09:38 am: |
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Voided by an independent shop. I'd hate to hear that story.
As far as your rocker box leak, have you tried to take a good straight edge (I use a metal ruler) and place the edge across the mounting areas of your rocker covers? You might have a slight warpage causing this problem. If that doesn't work, you can always mill a small amount of the surface material off to get you a better compression area between mating surfaces. I always use just the gasket and no other stuff, but I have seen others use the Hylomar with no problems. Just don't run the bike for a bit until after it cures.
Just a thought. |
Mgray87
| | Posted on Monday, September 13, 2004 - 10:29 am: |
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They look pretty good with my straightedge...I think I'll slap some clay inside the top boxes to check for sufficient tolerance between rockers and top box. Then milling may be my choice.
Toyed with the idea of doubling the quad rings...(but I don't think I like it)
I appreciate the advice on the Hylomar.
When I find a solution, (that's WHEN I find a solution) I'll post it here.
Thanks for the help, Karl!
Anybody else run into this? |
Slowride
| | Posted on Thursday, August 11, 2005 - 11:24 pm: |
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Rocker box Noise!!!!
History
Ok, I purchased a 2000 M2 about 4 months ago and drove it from MI to TX (1389mi)with no issues, but a leaking front rocker box. I drove a few more miles (300) before ordering and changing the gaskets. I noticed on the front Rocker box one of the top plate screws closest to the left motor mount was finger tight. This theme followed through the rest of the tear down. I think I had 4 bolts total that were finger tight or less.
Issue
The bike always sounded tight and it ran like a raped ape. I noticed after I assembled the front rocker box that there was a swhooshing or hissing tapping noise like a blown exhaust gasket coming from the front rocker box, but I didn't touch the pipes.
Question
What could be the cause? Could it be a rubber gasket not seating in the groves?
What could it be? |
Tricklidz
| | Posted on Thursday, March 16, 2006 - 03:43 pm: |
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My son has a 99 M2 with rocker box leaks.
Please advise the best gaskets to get. (non OEM please) and any other tips, torque readings.
Thank you,
Tricklidz.
be a while since I've worked on a Buell,,,since my S3. |
Mikej
| | Posted on Thursday, March 16, 2006 - 04:13 pm: |
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The updated OEM rocker gaskets are now just fine to use, probably comparable to Cometic and others. They got rid of them cheap little paper ones that often gave way in short order. |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Thursday, March 16, 2006 - 09:46 pm: |
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What Mike said.
I've used the new style OEM metal gasket on all three of our Buells, haven't had a leak yet.
The old paper version sucked. Period. |
Tricklidz
| | Posted on Friday, March 17, 2006 - 09:22 am: |
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Thanks guys,
Anyone have a part number???
Should I worry about any sealant or torque numbers here?
Oh yeah, maybe the best place to order..no local dealers!
Thanks again. |
Mikej
| | Posted on Friday, March 17, 2006 - 10:02 am: |
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Torque values matter as some of the bolts are in inch-pounds and not foot-pounds. You'll probably have to cut down a hex key allen wrench to fit onto some of the bolt heads.
Any of the site's vendors here should help and have the gaskets in stock. Get the service manual if you don't have one already as there are some steps to follow in removing and reinstalling the rockers and the various plates in the stackup of the rocker boxes.
And depending on how far you want to go with this look into upgrading to the XB style rocker boxes which eliminates the umbrella valve issues and negates you having to update/modify your current rocker drain areas. Brad/BluzM2 and others have posted nice descriptions with pictures of the process on various places of the site here. Updating the rockers to XB format is on my to-do list next time I want to get into the rocker region of my bikes. |
Xldevil
| | Posted on Friday, March 17, 2006 - 10:28 am: |
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Thanks guys,
Anyone have a part number???
P/n 16800-84 for the metal gaskets.
Ralph |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Friday, March 17, 2006 - 12:53 pm: |
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I just replaced the paper gaskets on my 2000 M2 with the metal gaskets (#17036091 "GASKET KIT, ROCKER COVER, XL'S").
That kit is H-D marked, not Buell, and I got it from Daves at Appleton H-D so I know it is the right stuff.
The gaskets went on easily enough. I used Scotchbrite and Oops! to get all the old gasket residue off, every visible trace of it.
I drilled the drain holes out to 1/8" also while I was there.
I did the bolts in the sequence and to the specs in the SM, and used both 3/8" (0-150 in/lb) and 1/2" (10-150 ft/lb) torque wrenches. The torque on the right rear Allen bolt was approximated as I did not have a 3/16" crow's foot.
It took my 1/4" and 3/8" universal joint drives and 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" socket drive adapters and extensions to find ways to get the torque wrenches on every bolt but it is a doable thing.
I've warmed it up twice and I rode it for about 30 minutes yesterday (at 30 degrees it was about all I could take). Everything is looking okay so far. I cleaned every trace of the oil and grease from the previous leaks off the bike so I'll be able to tell quickly if the gaskets are leaking. I just need some warmer weather.
I used red and blue LocTite as called for in the SM. Get the generic tubes of Red and Blue at CarQuest, VIPs, etc., it is made by LocTite and is about 1/2 the cost.
I also cleaned and degreased the bolts first. And I ran a tap through the bolt holes to clean the old sealant out and validate the torque readings. Blew them out with aerosol parts cleaner ($1.99 a can on sale at VIPs, everyone needs some).
Being a retired guy with seven Saturdays a week influences my thinking about the "right way to do the work". Especially when I'm working on the bike in a winterbound basement in Maine. With radiant heating in the floor.
I flushed and replaced the brake fuids, pretty much detailed the bike, I'm ready for spring. Its back up in the garage now and all I need is some better weather. It was 26F this morning...
Jack
(Message edited by jackbequick on March 17, 2006) |
Tricklidz
| | Posted on Friday, March 31, 2006 - 03:11 pm: |
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Jack be quick,
I'm going to attempt the gasket swap tommorrow,,,BUT,,,don't have a manual.
Could you please give torque specs, sequences..etc!!! Pics!!!
I'd appreciate it.
Could someone link a write up of the procedure here?? |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Friday, March 31, 2006 - 04:28 pm: |
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Steve,
I'll get that info together for you later this evening, you'll have it before tomorrow. Other than the needing a cut down 3/16" Allen wrench to get at the right rear cover screw, it is a pretty straight forward process.
The SM details the removal and replacement of the rocker boxes (I'll summarize that for you) and that is pretty much the entire the entire process.
Drop me an email at jacker at midmaine dot com and I'll email that direct to you.
Jack |
Tricklidz
| | Posted on Friday, March 31, 2006 - 04:50 pm: |
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Will do...
AND..
Thanks a lot.
Steve |
Orion
| | Posted on Sunday, May 14, 2006 - 09:47 pm: |
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I'm was putting the updated metal gasket on my 2000 M2 the other day and noticed the gasket covers what looks like some sort of port oil is supposed to flow through? I took some pictures and they are posted at the links below. The first picture has a red circle over the port I'm worried about. Do I have the wrong gasket, or is it OK to cover this port?
http://myweb.cableone.net/jeremym1234/dscn2353.jpg
http://myweb.cableone.net/jeremym1234/dscn2354.jpg
TIA,
J.D. |
Jimidan
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 16, 2006 - 12:50 am: |
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Orion,
Don't sweat as the "port" goes nowhere. Stick a tip of a paper towel in it and suck up the oil and you will see. I am not sure what it is for, as it kinda looks like a dowel hole, but obviously isn't.
You have the right gasket.
Actually, I had a set of these gaskets seep a little oil on me, so I used just a small amount of tubed gasket sealer around the lower valve spring just for insurance. There is a lot of oil that will pool around this during high speed. This was the only time that these newer style gaskets have done that, so I didn't want to chance it again.
Be sure to torque the rocker box bolts accordingly.
jimidan |
Orion
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 16, 2006 - 01:32 pm: |
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Thanks Jim. I should have thought of that. |
Jackbequick
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 16, 2006 - 04:14 pm: |
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J.D. - I also have a 2000 M2, it is a twin of yours on both color and rocker box leaks.
My rear box started leaking right at 2,700 or so and it was pretty much a mess when I put it away for the winter at 3,100 miles.
I put the metal gaskets in this winter and have about 2,000 miles on them with no leaks. I put them on carefully cleaned surfaces and dry because that was the recommendation and torqued them to specs. No leaks yet.
If yours aren't leaking you may still be okay, most people here report no further leaks after going from the paper to the metal gaskets.
Jack |
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