Author |
Message |
Shea
| Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 02:20 pm: |
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Getting these mufflers off was easy, must be a machanical genius. I am so frustrated right now. First, I cannot get the cable from the air box to feed through the engine, it's too tight, even with the zip ties cut. Second, I have unbloted the header clamp, the band in the front of the muffler, the bolts on the rear (I cannot get to the bands on this one) and I still cannot get this thing off. I have no idea what is left holding it on. Are there actual pictures of this removal that I can see? I hope to god I don't screw anything up when reinstalling the new muffler. If I can't figure this out, I guess I am saying screw it to the muffler and leaving it stock. |
Shea
| Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 02:22 pm: |
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BTW, someone mentioned you don't have to take off the belt tensioner to get this job don. I left it on, is this my problem? |
Hogs
| Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 02:26 pm: |
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Shea, If you are talking about the cable for the 12 valve just tuck it up out of the way have done a few like that no plms. just leave it tucked up inside the lower fairing no big deal...And if you have all three bands undone just wiggle it around it will come right down or if ya have to just tap down on top by the front header clam might just be abit snug there BIUT it will come loose Buddy.. |
Mr_cuell
| Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 02:36 pm: |
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Are you using the manual? I have heard of a few "tricks" to get things done differently but I have always followed it with reasonable success. If it says remove something I would. I lowered the motor last month as per the manual and it made sense - |
Phantom5oh
| Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 02:36 pm: |
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I removed my muffler without taking the belt tensioner/pulley off. I disconnected the cable from the servo motor in the airbox, cut the cable ties and wiggled it free. It was a tight fit with a bit of coaxing, but it came out. Then I pulled the cover off for the front belt "sprocket" by the right foot peg, and the chin spoiler. Snaked the cable the rest of the way out, and loosened the clamp on the muffler inlet. Then I removed the 3 band clamps that hold the muffler up. Gave it a good wiggle and it came right down. Sounds to me like the interactive exhaust cable is what's holding you up. It snakes all around and doesn't have a lot of free play. |
Jerseyguy
| Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 04:05 pm: |
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Shea, I've installed quite a few Drummers in an hour or less (including removal of the stock one) and I wrote the directions up for Kevin's website. Go to www.kdfab.com and navigate to the Drummer installation page. There may be other "short cuts" but if you do it as I suggest it will go easy, just take your time. BTW I'm not claiming to be a genius, I've just done it many times. |
Spike
| Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 04:36 pm: |
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Removing the actuator cable for the muffler was the absolute biggest PITA I've ever gone through with my XB. It snakes over to the back left corner of the frame and is held there by a bracket that is not removable from what I could tell. Getting either end of the cable to snake down the side of the frame and through that bracket was an absolute nightmare. Looking back it probably would have been worth it to just zip-tie the cable out of the way somewhere. I *think* the only reason for removing the idler pulley (belt tensioner) is to gain access to the rear muffler clamps. If you can get to them without pulling the idler pulley then there's no need to remove it. It sounds like you still have the rear clamps in place and you have the rear bracket unbolted. You'll need to get the rear clamps loose to get the muffler off. Once you all the muffler clamps loose the only thing holding the muffler in place should be the slip joint at the header. You should be able to get it loose by wiggling the muffler back and forth from the rear. Once you get that joint loose the muffler will literally fall off. Hope this helps. |
M1combat
| Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 04:49 pm: |
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I just cut that cable and gave it a good pull... I don't generally remove the tensioner when I remove the can. It's conceivable that the strap nuts could be oriented in such a way that you can't get to them w/o a wobbly though. Once you get the rear clamps undone you should be able to twist the can back and forth while pushing down on the front of the can. As I recall the first time I removed the stock can it was on there pretty good and took some elbow grease. |
Shea
| Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 05:34 pm: |
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Ok, I got it done. Here are some tips I found... First, I unbolted the wrong bolts in the back. I thought I had to undo the bolts on the actual bracket in the rear and not the bands. I managed to get to the bands in the rear without removing the tensioner. All you need is an extension and with the little bit of play the brake lever has, you can move it out of the way just enough. Lastly, no need to snake the cable down through. Just unhook it at the top, give it some play and when you take the muffler down, take it down just a little, unhook the bottom part of the cable, then remove muffler the rest of the way. Should go back together much easier too. Thanks. I was just getting frustrated. I am missing some tools, so that was getting me even more hot. |
Shea
| Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2006 - 05:36 pm: |
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Oh yeah, Jersey, I was using those instructions. I am much more savy with a car, but working on a motorcycle was just different. I think pictures for certain parts would have helped me a little more, as I didn't know what some of the things you were talking about. |
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