| Author | Message | ||
     Garrett1998s1 |
Going to replace the gaskets from the base gaskets up. Any suggestions on dropping the motor out? Am I going to have to rent an engine hoist is there a way to get it out without hoisting the frame up first? Maybe drop the motor down and lift the frame off with a couple guys? Also pulling off both wheels to change tires. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks Garrett | ||
| Tsispyder |
1, take off all connections after draining 2. put some wood under the bottom of the bike after you take off bottom shock and exhaust 3.unbolt motor mounts 4. Lift frame off | ||
| Spiderman |
You can do the top end without dropping the motor. U can even leave the rear shock on. All you need is a bottle jack so you can raise and lower the motor. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Spidey is spot on.Much easier than engine removal.Though if you must leave engine sitting and lift the frame off as the other Spidey said. | ||
| Tsispyder |
lol, thanks i guess i say it that way, becuase if im goign to reseal soething, im rebuilding the whole engine (which im going to do in about 6 months and get the heads diamond cut, and the frame powdercoated) | ||
| Jimincalif |
Spidey is right, except that I suspect a bottle jack isn't the way to go. The way I did it was to use winch-straps to lower the front of the engine down slowly, one strap on each side lowering the engine from the frame. I was able to change barrels/pistons/heads that way and all associated gaskets. Once the motor was done I just jacked the engine back up with the straps. | ||
| Pammy |
A scissor jack works the best. Makes it incredibly easy to get things loose and out. Just crank it up and down as you need. | ||
| Pammy |
You'll need a couple of tiedowns as well. | ||
| Spiderman |
I have a old bottle jack out of a Toyota that has a jacking head about 2" in diameter and is a screw type, I would never recomend a hydrolic one I shoulda stated that before sorry... It fits perfectly behind the exhaust mount. | ||
| Patrickh |
I got to agree with the rest, unless you are splitting the cases or powdercoating the frame you should leave the motor in. The rear isolators are pinched between the frame and the swingarm mounting block. They are a real bear to get in unless you have a spreader for the frame. Too much hassle removing the whole motor. I re-freshed my top end by removing the motor and it really wasen't worth the effort. Actually ended up breaking a belt 500mi later and had to do it all over again. Of course if you are have cracks and tears in you rear isolators them maybe its worth it. to take both wheels off I made a cradle out of stacked 2X4's and put them under the motor (with exhaust and shock off) and used a racheting strap to go under the cradle and attach to both rider footpegs. I tied off two lines, one front, one rear, over the beams in my garage to stablize the whole set up from rocking. (Message edited by patrickh on February 12, 2006) | ||
| Garrett1998s1 |
Thanks for the advice rear jugs been leaking since I bought the bike. It only has a little over 3000 miles on it so im not planning a complete rebuild. Glad I asked before I started sounds like if I would have dropped it all the way out I could have made life much more difficult than it needed to be. Will be doing it next month. Thanks Garrett | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Garrett, i just did the same on my M2 last summer. I use and old scissor jack from a car that had a flat top. I made a simple metal plate that fits in the hole in the top of the jack. I then used contact cement to attach a sheet of rubber to the plate. I was able to do the entire top end with no problems. The scissor jack made it simple to move the motor up and down as needed. |
