| Author | Message | ||
     Bomber |
anyone have any experience with the M6 primary chain tensioner? Positive, negative? thanks rosberg | ||
| Jml |
How tight should the primary drive chain be? I have heard 1/2" play and 1". I need to buy a shop manual... Thanks | ||
| Jml |
The primary drive chain question is for a 2000 M2. Thanks | ||
| Yellowstorm |
Jml- The primary drive chain should be between 3/8" to 1/2" vertical free play. The measurement is taken at the tightest point. Pull your plugs, get the rear wheel off the ground and check the vertical free play in 4 or 5 different spots. Adjust as necessary and check 4 or 5 points again. Good luck Marc | ||
| Chuck |
.375 to .5 inches or 9.5 to 12.7 millimeters - - - total vertical freeplay measured cold | ||
| Jml |
Thanks | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Jml, The free play numbers provided are what's in the manual. I took a sharpie and numbered every 4th link or so, wasn't real precise in my link counts while spinning the rear wheel. Got to 12. So there is somewhere like 48-50 or so links total in the chain. So if you check free play every 8-10 links, and make 5 measurements, you're doing good. After 7K miles, my measurements had at least 1/16" variability from tightest to loosest spot, it's tough to do with much precision thru the little inspection hole If anyone has their primary open and can get a more accurate link count, that'd be nice, because my count is from memory from a month or so ago. BHR? | ||
| Hans |
Al: It is not the chain but the sprockets that are not that precise. If you make five measurements at random after some turns then you can`t be wrong I bet. No need to take the lowest number and to be that precise: Before first tensioning the freeplay was more than a whole inch without any discomfort. Hans. | ||
| Jml |
I have about 500 miles on my M2 and the primary freeplay was about 1.25 inches. It seemed to make a whiring noise but I may be getting confused with the overhead noise. (I'm not sure if there was a change in the noise after the adjustment.) Is it normal to hear the overhead at light loads? | ||
| Hans |
Jml, Yeah, I completely forgot but indeed: After just finishing the first 500 miles I returned home and heard on the driveway for the first time a new but clear whiring noise also without load and at low RPM`s. After oil change and adjusting the primary it was gone and never returned. After warming up I need a ride of two hundred yards before the last valve adjuster stops tickling and then I hear only a smooth sizzling of all those moving parts what is perfectly normal for an aircooled four stroke engine. Listen once to a Duc and you are cured forever from worries about overhead noises. Ride&Smile Hans. | ||
| Bigblock |
Replace those tensioners, guys, I went to fix a minor leak, the metal tab that holds the rubbing block on was broken, it's amazing the thing held together. The new one's tab is over TWICE as thick as the old style(my bike's a 2000!) I advise you open that sucker up and replace pronto. My bike's got 10,000 mi, but I suspect that thing's been broke a long time, judging from the look of the part and the primary cover(ground up good from the chain, and I was adjusting that chain atleast every oil change, now I know why!) | ||
| Marks3tbillet |
2000 S3/S3T owners: I was looking at my 2000 S3T yesterday while on a ride with some friends. The gearshift lever coming out of the primary on my bike does not have a center in it. (To chuck up the shaft for machining) The other Buells in the group had them. ('96 S1, '00 M2) The guy with the S1 also has a '99 S3 and said his lever on it has the center too. Is my bike unique or is this common to all newer S3s? I'm just wondering how they machined the lever or if it was cutoff after machining. | ||
| Ralph |
Al, forty-seven links. bighairyralph | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Helicoil on Derby cover bolt threads? Changed the primary adjuster shoe today. Last step of the job was to tighten the derby cover bolts..rear one stripped the threads out of the primary cover, even though I was using a torque wrench set light. I suspect the last one in there (dealer service) didn't so something right, because all four screws were way too easy to remove based on past experience. Those are blind threaded holes in the primary cover... Has anyone ever helicoiled them before? Is there enough meat in the walls and enough floor depth to drill for the helicoil? It'd be a bummer to have to replace the entire Primary cover for this, especially since one just sold on ebay for cheap. Helicoils on the priamary cover for the derby cover seems like a good idea anyway, that's a routine service item. Al | ||
| Road_Thing |
Echoing Al-Lighton's question, what about helicoils for the threaded holes receiving the bolts holding on the outer primary cover? And the hole where the clutch cable enters the primary? While chasing down my primary leak, I discovered both of these holes to be stripped on S1#2. They're not causing me any immediate leakage problems, thanks to copious use of Teflon tape, but I'd like to repair them "right!" road_thing | ||
| Ralph |
Al, there is plenty of meat back there for a helicoil. Same for the clutch hole, Thingie. I don't see any reason for the inner holes to be a problem. All this comes from looking at the spare primary cover I picked up cheap on ebay. PPpllldddhgghgh. Cheaper than Heli-Coils. bighairyralph | ||
| Al_Lighton |
magnificentmostfuzzyone, Thanks very much for the looksie. You were the guy that got the primary on ebay, eh. There was a parking sale here at my dealer recently, I bought a new cam cover for 20bucks. The matching primary was right next to it, 20 bucks. I'm an idiot. I shoulda bought that part and every one like it right then/there. Helicoils are wonderful. A superior but more expensive product would have all cast aluminum threaded holes helicoiled (actually Keenserted) from the factory. I'm glad they at least accomodated the material requirements so I can make it all better without even taking the cover back off. Thanks, Al | ||
| Road_Thing |
BHR: I saw your bid for the HSR42 on ebay-decided to watch it till the last minute, then lost the bidding when ebay went down. I hate when that happens! r_t | ||
| Ralph |
Dat's to bad, Thingy. I passed on the Mikuni and got some R1 wheels and brakes instead. Cost a little more though. I think my winter projects are covered. bighairyralph | ||
| Road_Thing |
BHR--Winter projects? Which winter? R_T | ||
| Ralph |
That's the time of year I get to work on the bike without thinking about all the riding I'm missing. bighairyralph | ||
| Pangalactic |
Thats the problem with livin in the south- any down time is time you could be ridin 'cept for them thar hurricanes... | ||
| Road_Thing |
Yeah, hurricanes are pretty bad. Tropical Storm Allison messed up the riding around Houston this past weekend. When the water started rising in the street outside my house, I was wondering if I could put both my Buells on the dining room table if the garage went under! Fortunately, the rain stopped after about 12" at my house. On another happy note, I found the oil leak I was looking for--it was blowing out past the gasket between the starter and the primary. The trick with the deodorant spray worked! While I was in there, I replaced the shoe on my primary tensioner (13,000 miles). Everything else looked OK except for the stripped threads noted above. So far, leak-free. Sometimes I amaze myself! road_thing | ||
| Javahed |
Has anyone used one of these -- H-B 125 Automatic Chain Tensioner Here is a link to the website. http://www.sohotbikes.com/tension.html Just wondering if it's worth the cash and time to put into my X1 Thanks! Dan | ||
| Aaron |
Are they offered for XL's? | ||
| Slodog |
anyone try the m-6 chain tensioner? i heard it was better cause it keeps the chain under tension constantly. i have 16,000 miles on my s1 and figure ill have to do something soon anyway. any suggestions would be great. thanks jason | ||
| Road_Thing |
Slodog: Both my S1's (bought used) came with the M-6's. S1#1 broke the tensioner spring around 10,000 miles, I replaced it and it seems OK at 12,500. S1#2 has 13,500 miles on the bike and the M-6 was OK when I had the primary cover off it last week. I don't know in either case at what mileage the M-6's were installed. I don't know if I would replace a stock tensioner with an M-6 after seeing the spring come apart on #1--those little pieces of spring could have done really bad things in the transmission. Anybody else have any thoughts on this? road_thing | ||
| Mother_Big |
Where does the primary chain lubricant go into a Blast!? I've posted on that board, but would really like an answer today if possible. the service manual is mute on this question. thanks... | ||
| Sportyeric |
Great website. Just finding my way around. Did you all figure out your primary adjustment stuff yet? The specs I see posted a while back are the cold specs. That's just to ball-park it. It should be done hot to 3/8". No need to pull the plugs and jack up the wheel. Just put it in gear(3rd) and push the bike a foot or so at a time. I picture that M6 as getting very compressed and leaving a lot of slack when you chop the throttle. Primary covers? Get'em whenever you can. A heavier clutch spring (i.e. Barnett)can crack a stock case at the inspection plate mount. Best to have a spare. Primary lube on a sporty goes in at the chain adjustment inspection cover and the level is set by a small bolt at the back edge of the case. Might be the same for a Blast. | ||
| Mother_Big |
eric, thanks. you seem to be right about the in-port, but there is no bolt at the back edge for the Blast. mb |
