| Author | Message | ||
     Elmono |
I want to completely remove the rear tailsection plastic and run the seat directly on the frame rail. I'd have to rig up some sort of bracket for my taillight and license plate, but I bet ya'll have seen/done something similar. Thanks, Chad. | ||
| 1313 |
Paging Bomber, paging Bomber! 1313 | ||
| Bomber |
Like this?    | ||
| Grndskpr |
look at that freeking sofa R | ||
| Bomber |
mmmmmmm -- comfy! | ||
| Djkaplan |
It took a while to grow on me (years), but that is one rockin' M2. I really like the relocated voltage regulator - the "Bomber" mod, soon to be featured on my M2 as well. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Saw this today in the classifieds:  It's an S1 but same idea. | ||
| Bomber |
thanks Deej ;-} | ||
| Elmono |
Thanks Bomber! Now how'd you mount your license plate/taillight? Did you fabricate that bracket? I was thinking of rigging some sort of bracket or welding tabs to the frame, with a hole in each tab. Then I could just mount the taillight and tag on these brackets. Thanks, Chad. | ||
| Bomber |
I made a plate to mount the tag and signals (you can see it in the last pic) -- it's bolted to the frame using the mounts for the rear bodywork -- the seat sits proud of the frame on account of the four little plastic thingies on the seat base that sit on the frame -- wow, ain't THAT clear ;-} no welding involved, so it was easy for me (that doesn't know HOW to weld) let me know if you'd like more pics -- when I get home next week, I can grab em and post em | ||
| Jayvee |
Wouldn't the Banke fender eliminator kit work to hold up the electric bits, even if you completely eliminated the rear tail piece? I thought it bolted to the frame. (Don't have one, yet...) | ||
| Bomber |
JV -- you may be right -- I have no data, but DID have some aluminum and some unsupervised time in the Entropy Lab! | ||
| Lake_bueller |
If you'd rather purchase one, American Sport Bike has them for the tube frame Buells. Here's a link to the Al's site: American Sport Bike | ||
| Elmono |
Lake_bueller, I saw the one on American Sport Bike and it seems that the tail light wiring and connection would be exposed, due to the fact that the tail section now covers this. Bomber, more pics would help if you've got the time. Thanks for the help, Chad. | ||
| Bomber |
Chad -- back in town now, look for pics in a day or three . . . . . . | ||
| Silas_clone |
Bomber, when I finally get my act together, I wanna have my bike look like yours [but I'm finally at peace with a belt drive since I went scary loose and lived!!!] | ||
| Elmono |
Just looked up both the Banke and the American Sportbike fender eliminator kits. First, there's no way I can spend $130-150 for this mod (I'd rather spend it on a new tire or LOTS of beer). Second, these kits look like they're designed to be used with the tailsection, so w/o that piece it seems there'd be a gap between the seat and the taillight. This seems that it would leave the wires and connector exposed and it would definitely make me look stupider than I already look. Now all I need to do is find a sheet of aluminum or galvanized steel and figure out how to make this idea work. Then I'll copyright the gadget, sell zillions of them and buy my own brewery (and yes, all of you will drink for free). Thanks, Chad. | ||
| Bomber |
Silas -- I'm thinkin one ratty bobber MaDeuce is enough, sir ;-}on t'other hand, sing out if ya have any questions -- I way overdocumented the making of the electronic counter measure suit mounting system -- now all I gotta do is find the pics -- I would still be running a belt if I hadn't gotten a great deal on the chain gang kit, btw Elmono -- pics comin, I promise -- make it aluminum, is my suggestion -- easier to work, and won't rust (which is what galvanized will do everywhere you cut it, yes?) | ||
| Soslo2 |
I really want to put an X1 seat and tail section on my M2... is this possible or will the subframe not mount up? | ||
| Bomber |
anything is possible with enough time, money and skills the X1 subframe has nothing to mount to on an M2 frame -- you could sawzall the rear part of the M2 frame off, and weld lugs to mount the X1 part to, but I would carefully measure the appropriate places on both frames first -- there could very well be dimensional differences that would make this tougher to do . . . | ||
| Bomber |
Pics -- late, but pics nonetheless -- my apologies for the delay the alloy plate is bolted to the 4 holes that normally accept the rear bodywork fasteners --     this last pic shows the alloy palkte bent down 90 degrees with a piece of foam weatherstripping between the plate and the oil bag -- it keeps the majority of the spooge of the top of the bag, doncha know  | ||
| Bomber |
Pics -- late, but pics nonetheless -- my apologies for the delay the alloy plate is bolted to the 4 holes that normally accept the rear bodywork fasteners --     this last pic shows the alloy palkte bent down 90 degrees with a piece of foam weatherstripping between the plate and the oil bag -- it keeps the majority of the spooge of the top of the bag, doncha know  | ||
| Silas_clone |
my favorite BOBBER | ||
| Bomber |
Thanks, Silas ;-} | ||
| Elmono |
Bobber, thanks for the pics. That's a great mod. Never say never, but I can't see myself putting any of the plastic back on this thing. Now if I can only figure out how to get photos of El Cohete Amarillo online... Chad | ||
| Wiredcur |
Hey Bomber, You stated you didn't weld the bracket. Not even during fabrication? If not, what did you use? I'm in the same boat with Elmono. After seeing you pics and a few others. I'm looking to remove the plastic and shorten the seat to it's bare minimum. Thank Tim | ||
| Bomber |
Wired -- well, the plate started life as a single flat sheet -- you can see where I brazed the aluminum (lumiweld)around the little ears to keep the turned up portion at the rear from fatiguing -- I planned the gig by using a piece of poster board (actully, 7 or 8 pieces, as the first couple didn't work out quite the way I planned) -- just bent the poster bard until I had everything I wanted (places to mount the tail light, turn signals) and then used that as a template to cut and form the aluminum plate nice weekend project -- it's in the process of being updated, so I can mount the stock fuse block to it and hide some more of the wiring | ||
| Wiredcur |
Do you have a source for Lumiweld? That just sounds too easy!!! | ||
| Bomber |
http://eastwood.resultspage.com/search?p=Q&ts=custom&w=lumiweld careful -- the temp needed to braze aluminum is about 2 degrees less than the temp needed to create a shiney puddle on the floor -- also, when making your template outa poster board, don't forget to use round-nose scissors -- don't want to cut yourself, do ya? ;-} | ||
| Wiredcur |
Thanks Bomber!! My Lumiweld Kit is on it's way!!! | ||
| Bomber |
Wired -- you're very welcome -- it's great stuff, but PRACTICE on scrap before you work on a piece that you've got hours of work in -- believe me, you are very likely gonna make some shiney puddles on the floor at first -- also, MAP gas will generate more heat that Propane, without much more cost -- if the stock you are brazing is kinda thick, it'll soak up propane heat all day long, without getting hardly hot enough to braze have fun, and feel free to post (or PM) questions | ||
| Wiredcur |
UPS ROCKS!!! I ordered the Lumiweld Kit from Eastwood yesterday and paid $6.95 for Ground. It's already "out for delivery"!!! Eastwood rocks too for getting it out the door so fast. (It also helps to be only a state away  ) | ||
| Wiredcur |
So if I'm limited to handtools, a dremel and a drill, what's the best way to work aluminum? | ||
| Bomber |
working covers a lot of ground, Wired -- without trying to sounds like an asshat (just comes naturally, I guess): cut with a hacksaw refine cuts with file (coarse for aluminum, and rub a piece of blackboard or sidewalk chalk over the teeth to get them from loading up with filings) mark with a "Sharpie," Tramemarked, all rights reserved bend over the edge of your workbench with the non-bendy part clamped down again, not sure if I've answered your questions . . . fel free to ask away, either here or via PM | ||
| Wiredcur |
thanks Bomber! It was those little word of encouragement that helped. Now I need to find my AssHat hat... check this out. Maybe the S1 that was pictured above has frame that's a little different, eh?  I got some frame sticking out the end after I chopped the seat. "Measure twice, Cut Once"  I guess I could hack off the end of that and build some aluminum strut affair to incorporate the brake light housing. | ||
| Bomber |
Wired -- it's always good to take a plunge, and if I can serve as a bad example . . . . . regarding your frame . . . if it was me (and it ain't ;-} ), I'd get me another seat and try again -- seats are pretty cheap on ebay and in the classifieds here -- chopping off the ends of frames is something I havn't done in a while, and when I DID do it, it regretted it -- the tubing that connects the two sides of the frame has a reason to be there -- while IT doesn't need to be there, something does, connecting the two sides of the frame together -- handling will very likely NOT be enhanced by lopping of the U of tubing |
