| Author | Message | ||
     Jayvee |
I want more rear brake power. Still have stock everything. Is the braided stainless line the best place to start? Or replace the rotor with a full floating? Or both? Looking for most cost-effective first. The last resort is the $450 kit from A.S.B that replaces the back caliper with a two active-piston one. (Message edited by JayVee on January 23, 2006) | ||
| Reepicheep |
I would think super aggressive pads and viewing the rear rotor as a consumable would be the most cost effective first step. | ||
| Jayvee |
The American Sport Bike site shows 3 rotors about the same, the Wave, the EBC with a picture that shows floating carrier, and another "race" EBC that is not floating. Any consensus what's the best rotor deal? I saw the notes from Al about Lyndall pads, will also try these, and will get the stainless braided hose, when I decide on a rotor, I guess. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Braided stainless line is a good start. The twin piston brembo is a huge difference in stopping. We don't include the line with that kit any more (and we reduced the price) because the line is different from bike to bike. SO you could start with the line, and if that isn't enough, get the kit afterwards. None of the rear rotors are floating. I love the lyndalls in the front, but they aren't miracle workers in the rear. It's hard to get good heat into the rears to really make them work. Al | ||
| Bomber |
Al's line for the M2 really made an improvement on my MaDeuece -- you can improve the functioning of your stock setup by "blueprinting" the rear caliper -- mine was about 6 months old when I rebuilt the caliper, and the piston was corroded a touch, and the seals just a little worn -- rebuilt the caliper, and made sure the pin on which the little thing pivots was lubed with something that wouldn't migrate all over the disk -- once this "blueprinting was done, I had a usible rear break -- the addition of Al's line made it even better! all that said, I'm sure that swapping calipers would give you even better performance, and I'm considering that now | ||
| Jayvee |
Say, Al, Is the Ferodo pads on your web-site,listed as "Sintered" are these the SinterGrip ST, or the SinterGrip XR pads? Also, on the dual-piston caliper kit, it looks like it comes with a new factory rotor? Can you substitute the galfer, or one of the other rotors? (At extra cost, perhaps...) Just wondering. Thanks (Message edited by JayVee on January 24, 2006) | ||
| Hotrodsportster |
Another more costly options is the Brembo Setup that Al sells. We have used that setup on the rear of the last two (2) Tubers that we owned. That package makes the rear brake usable again. Give Al a ring. Ride Safe | ||
| Al_lighton |
XR compound for the tuber front and rears. The dual piston kit rotor is similar to the stock rotor, but is not the same exact part as the 98 and later. It MAY be the same part as the pre-98 rear rotor, sure looks like it, but I'm not 100% sure. The difference is the pre-98 were a different material (likely mild steel), and stainless for the 98 and after, and a row of holes on the pre-98, a curved slot on the 98 and later. The EBC is a mild steel rotor as well. The mild steel will have a slightly higher friction coefficient, IF the rotor is kept from not rusting and embedding rust particles into the pads, which can reduce braking effectiveness. You're better off chasing more effective braking through pad compound than rotor material substitutions. And with the dual piston system, it's folly to even try, you'll have WAY more stopping power than is possible to use on the bike. Joanne's (wife) SV650 has that dual piston rear caliper. I have to conciously try to not lock the darned thing up whenever I ride her bike. As soon as you brake hard, and all the weight transfers forward, the rear has more than enough power to lock up the rear. There IS a reason Buell uses the single piston caliper, and it isn't necessarily that they're cheaping out on it. Al | ||
| Jayvee |
OK, I'll try the line and XR pads, and maybe the caliper rebuild (blueprinting) mentioned in another thread. This may sound sacreligious to some, but when I carried a passenger (and therefore going much slower) I used the back brake a lot, it keeps the passenger's helmet from banging into mine, among other things. Going faster, agreed, don't hardly use it. | ||
| Bomber |
not at all sacreligious -- just a different church, is all some like the rear brake for a number of uses (not all related to slowing th ebike down alot), some don't | ||
| Jayvee |
OK another big dumb question. Got the stainless rear brake line from Al. What the heck kind of bolt head is that on the rear caliper connecting the brake line? Looks like a 18-point bolt head? Is this for what's called a "star" socket? Obviously I'm a little behind the times, I don't have any wrenches that fit it at all. Help ! I can buy more sockets, wrenches or whatever, just don't even know what to buy... (Message edited by jayvee on February 10, 2006) | ||
| Jayvee |
OK nevermind, it looks like a 3/8" twelve point socket fits it. Most of mine are six-point, but I found a loose 12 point and it seems to work. Thanks anyway! | ||
| Chefa |
Does anyone know anything about Brembo master cylinders, and when installed is it like having a very sensitive power brake?? | ||
| The_x_man |
Does anyone know what kind/type of Nissin caliper is used in the conversionkit offered by Trojan/R&R? Think I can make the bracket myself. (Message edited by the_x_man on February 25, 2006) |
