| Author | Message | ||
     Jerome |
Thanks a bunch for the advice, folks. I've just got a used set of PM wheels for my M2, therefore the question. Actually I plan to install the Avon Azarro front and rear tire and go for the 180/55 rear. I don't ride often under wet conditions so I don't care much about the poor behaviour of the Azarro under rain (at least this is what I read in motorcycle magazine tests here) but this tire is very well ranked when it comes to handling and grip under dry conditions as well as for its high mileage potential. Anyone who has fitted a 180/55 Azarro on a PM rear wheel and who could confirm that there's enough clearance with the belt ? | ||
| Jerome |
I discussed the PM wheels and tire size question with Milwaukee Twin, a Buell dealer in northern France who competes here against Ducatis, etc... (Actually he won two races last year !). He recommended to maintain the 170/60 tire size on PM wheels instead of increasing it to 180/55. He said that the handling feels really "heavier" with the wider tire. For the tire brand, he recommended me to consider the Dunlop D207. He confirmed that the Avon Azarro has really excellent qualities (handling, grip, wear) but it is not certified for Buells here in France... | ||
| Jiml |
Jerome For what's it worth I've changed back to Dunlop's 207s on my 96 S1 with PM wheels. 120/70 front and 170/60 rear. It had the Avon's on before with an 180/55 on the rear. Really like the feel of the 207's the best for me. I see where you live in France. My son is heading over later this week for Spring Break. later jiml | ||
| Sparky |
An odd thing happened during a run this last Saturday while I was leading a group on my 98 S3 & just starting to get into the serious twisties. The bike felt like the engine was laboring and then wouldn't coast. A quick walk around the bike confirmed that the front brake was dragging and overheated. After it cooled sufficiently I removed the caliper and rocked it side to side forcing the pistons back in. Then upon reinstalling the caliper, I was pleasantly surprised to find the lever position higher than before and actually firmer! The bike's been OK since then. What would cause this? Road grunge on the caliper? Water in the brake fluid? Sticking master cylinder? Related info: The front pads are worn but not worn out. I rode in the rain (and snow) the previous weekend, but it has been dry since and much warmer on the day this happened. I didn't wash the bike between weekends. The lever position was getting low before the incident and it's higher now. No fluid added. Weird huh? I'm gonna take it in for a periodic 5000 mile service, new pads & fluid right away but I'd still like to know what happened. Thanks for any info, Sparky | ||
| Hoser |
Sparky: I had a similar incident , the front rotor warped on my 96 S2 . I thought it was due to my "occasionally" aggressive riding style and had just completed a week long ride through the mountains in B.C. I then replaced the rotor ( @ 28,000 km ). Two weeks later after more thrashing in the mountains the new rotor was warped too !! , this can't be I thought . At this time I disassembled the caliper (PM) and rebuilt it with a seal kit , replaced the rotor with a 2000 part and replaced the pads. You may want to look inside the caliper , I do beleive they have a service interval , not having a service manual in front of me i'm not sure what the recomended milage would be. I had an incident this weekend myself . I do admit I ride fairly hard sometimes and quite often when exiting a corner ( on my S1 ) in second gear i'll grab third gear hard and wheelie for a ways. This time it spit the drive belt out the rear of the bike. Luckily I was only a mile from home and it was a short push. This is the first time this bike has ever broken down and left me on the road !! , yup it's true , never a rockerbox leak , no electrical problems , nothing it just runs and runs. Oh ya maybe I better confess in case any one who knows me sees this , once during a track day after doing repeated wheelies exiting the bus stop ( chicane ) in third gear lap after lap , bouncing off the rev limiter I DID BEND an exhaust valve ( just a little ). Hoser | ||
| Jmartz |
Jeff: What effect does a warped rotor produce? Is it a pulsating feeling under hard braking? I have the aformentioned condition and have been patiently waiting for Ferodo but no Buell rotors are available as of yet. | ||
| Court |
Jeff: The warped (actually the more likely condition is what is referred to as "potato chipping" wherein the rotor "bends" is multiple directions. (see potato chip for detailed explanation of complimentary/competing parabolic planes) The sensation transmitted to the rider is, typically, "pulsating" of the lever under light braking. It, depending on the conditon, may get more or less pronounced with greater breaking effort. The rotor AND carrier should be replaced as a unit and this is something that warrants your attention. Too often, without regard for the diminsihed control that CAN result, the condition is relegated to "nuisance" as opposed to critical mechanical condition. Braking is reduced, control is reduced and accelerated wear is produced on ancillary parts. We seldom, regardless of the "boy talk" operate our Buells close to the outer edge of the performanace envelope. In the event you'd have to you want your binders up to par. Let me know if you need help with part numbers of getting a rotor. Court (interesting tid-bit: The "Buell Basement" has a display of Buell Rotors from a variety of manufacturing sources. You may not know it but Buell has CONSTANTLY been improving what may already be, some of the best brakes on a bike.) | ||
| Blake |
I liked the old iron disk on my '97 M2 though. It looked so cool after a rain or morning dew (some of that Buell "character" that has been slightly diminished by the new/improved model years). | ||
| Court |
Blake: Your "old iron disc" was a dandy one, too. HINT: Look for the best of the iron discs. You can tell them, as the cooling slots terminate BETWEEN the two carrier drive pins. The one that preceeded it, Kelsey-Hayes if I recall, had the cooling slot that terminated BEFORE the drive pin hole. Yes, I have pictures. Court | ||
| S2carl |
Court, I thought the potato chipping was an early attempt of ABS?!?!?! LOL (sorry, just a little stir crazy, got 2 buells that no worky in the garage. Getting parts for one this Fri. Whoooo Hooo maybe I can ride this weekend.) Carl | ||
| Nightrider |
I HAVE A 99X/1 AND AM WOUNDERING IF THE REAR BRAKES WORK. THE DEALER JUST REBUILT THE MASTER AND I CAN PUSH THE LEVER TO IT'S STOP AND IT DOES NOT HELP SLOW THE BIKE DOWN AT ALL.I WILL BLEED IT THIS WEEKEND TO SEE IF THIS HELPS.THANKS | ||
| Eeeeek |
It's a high effort rear brake, but not that bad. Vik | ||
| Hoser |
Court: Thanks for the info , as always you are of great help to Buell owners. Both bikes now have 2000 rotors and fresh pads , and are working well. Jose: What Court said above is an acurate explanation. Are you going ahead with a chain conversion ? Nightrider: I have expeienced the same thing before ....... during the 99X1 brake line recall episode , had a tough time bleeding the brake on one bike. Have seen others on this board comment on difficulty bleeding rear brakes too. You may have to pressure bleed it or use a vacuum device to get the job done. Make sure that DOT4 has not been mixed with DOT5 fluid ! . See service bulletin above for more info on brake fluid. Jeff | ||
| Jmartz |
Hoser: I would like to convert to chain but unfortunately w/o major disassemby I cannot install a nylon rubing pad over the swigarm block. I will not do the installation and allow the chain to gouge into the block. I might do a Supemax front pulley (nylon/steel, about 1/2 as heavy as the cast iron monster we have)and a Joker lightened rear. What is holding me back on that conversion is cost above all. It will be about 3 time more plus I was told by Joker that HD aliminum pulleys undergo a treatment with molybdenum and other ingredients that hardens them making them last 100000 miles. The joker rear pulley at $438 retail will die as fast as a $60 sprocket, 15 - 20 K. So here I am wearing away my old parts and accelerating lower than I could otherwise..... Jose | ||
| Jmartz |
Now that I have manged to bend both of my rims I'm once more in the market for sometthing new and different. No more polished wheels for me that need to come off the bike to be lustered properly. Other than the Dymag CF wheels which I cannot afford, is there a Mg wheel available for Buells that does not involve mounting aggravations? Jose | ||
| Rocketman |
Jose : Dymag do a full range of mags to suit any bike including Buell. They also do a magnesium wheel with carbon rim. Way cool and nearly as light as the CF wheel. Don't know about price but they do have a US outlet I believe. Rocket in England | ||
| Jmartz |
Hi Rocket: Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look into them. The US outlet is in, of all places, Valdosta, GA. Not good for sales tax reasons but I've got an address in SC I can use. The CF units are $4545, so I assume all others are less. Jose | ||
| Rocketman |
Jose : That's about £120 cheaper than they cost (full retail) in the UK. Rocket in England | ||
| Jmartz |
Rocket: The Dymag US rep comes to Road Atlanta (my local racetrack) in the summer during the races. I have never been there when he is but I hear he brings examples of the whole line. Gotta get ny act together for the next time. Are you refurbishing you S1W? I am waiting for Ferodo to get their rotors done so I can replace mine and have ordered a trans pulley made out of nylon that is only about a lb. After I recover from those 2 the next thing is a Joker rear pulley. The wheels are bent but it's cosmetic damage (just as well for replacement). I tell people 1/2 joking, although I really mean it, that I don't care how well something performs, if its ugly I'm not putting it on my bike. Have a great time at the European daytona in france. Jose | ||
| Chrisg |
I'm getting ready to replace my own tires (first time)on my M2 and I was wondering if anyone knew of a good source for tire mounting fluid. Folks at the local auto stores just look at me like I'm crazy. I know many people just use detergent and water, but I've heard this can allow the tire to rotate on the wheel, throwing off the balance job, and also corrode the rim. Any general tips on mounting/balancing tires would be welcome as well. Thanks, Chris | ||
| Gundog |
It's time for new ruber and I am thinking of changing from the D205s to Conti Force. Does anybody have any feedback for me? The price is better, but only if they perform. Any info is appreciated. Dale 99M2 | ||
| Chuck |
Chris. Call your local Coats supplier. Every tire shop on the planet has a Coats tire changer; and most cities have a local Coats service rep. Maybe a tire shop would even sell you some fluid... | ||
| Tbolt834 |
Hello again, I actually found the answer to my question on larger rear brakes. For those interested, here it is. Dave, It took Don a little while to find the info you're looking for. He had seen it in a catalog for American Sport Bike. Here's what he found: Performance Machine makes a 4 piston caliper and bracket for the Buell while EBC makes a rear rotor. Both of these can be ordered through American Sportbike and their web address is http://www.americansportbike.com/. Hope that helps you out... and thanks for checking out our site, come back again soon! Ride On... Lorraine. Come visit AddiTude's MotorSports! @ http://buells.terrashare.com/index.html Ride on! | ||
| Hans |
Tbolt834: Did you see Cap`s advertisement in the "Parts for sale" topic? "Rear Brembo caliper, carrier, and rotor for sale In excellent condition $200 " | ||
| Al_Lighton |
SO I replaced my front tire this past weekend. A few comments. 1)Those calipers come off the bike with about .001" clearance unless I'm doing it wrong. I think it's impossible to do without at least nicking your wheel once. I woulda taped up the wheel but that .001" was needed. 2) Sure is cool how easy it is to remove the pads. 3) While the caliper was off, I compressed the 6 pistons in even though I wasn't changing the pads. Once reassembled and pumped back up (no bleed), the improvement in brake feel was incredible. My theory is that repeated heat cycles must have boiled some fluid into vapor that must have been still in the lines. Afer pushing in the pistons and pushing most of the fluid up top, along with whatever entrained vapor, the lines are just fluid. The brakes are immediate with a lot less give and more feedback. Maybe they were never bled right from the factory, or maybe they just got like that slowly and I didn't notice. All I know is that the difference is not subtle, feels like someone slapped another disc on up there! 4) Put a new D207 front on, first replacement tire on S1W, 7600 miles. Man, I love how a tire feels when it's brand new (past the first mold release scrub, that is) You say lean and it goes NOW!! Al | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Hmm, having just gone back and read Sparky's incident where he "removed the caliper and rocked it side to side forcing the pistons back in. Then upon reinstalling the caliper, I was pleasantly surprised to find the lever position higher than before and actually firmer!" (see his post, tuesday, 3/20) No one responded as to why the cause in his case, but if my previously mentioned theory is correct, I think I just added a new routine to my maintenance..manually compress pistons in by forcing side to side to get vapor out. Al | ||
| Chuck |
Al, Here's something else to add to your list . . . especially if you're anal-retentive. When changing brake pads, after removing old ones, squeeze pistons out just enough to expose a "clean" surface; and then remove the gunk that has accumulated around them. That way, when you install the newer (and thicker) pads, you won't force the "cruddy" part of the pistons back past the caliper seals. Takes more time, but brakes work smoother and even retract better. Although pads may not have been replaced, Al Luddington did this before every race on Miguel Duhamel's 600 supersport machine to, among other things, minimize "rolling resistance. | ||
| Sparky |
Chuck, I think you're on to something there. That may be a contributing factor in why my 98 S3 brake bound up. Yessiree I'll betcha the buildup of road grunge around all them pistons sure didn't help them retract any, especially the dried caked on dirt from rain riding the previous weekend while trying to stay in sight of Jerry Johnson up and down Palomar Mtn. Al, I couldn't get my calipers free past the wheel. You must have PM's which may be slightly thinner than my cast wheels. Sparky | ||
| Rippin |
Sparky I do believe in the shop man. that they want ya to seperate the 2 halves of the caliper. However on my M2(99) I just removed the pads then cleaned the pistons off best I could with them still hugging the rotor. I also have cast wheels,very tight fit but found a spot on the rim where it came off. Then I hand filed a very small amount on the back side of the caliper where it was causing some interference. Now when ever front wheel needs off its a snap(red?) hmm. Ryan | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Sparky, I've got the Buell 3 spoke Marchesini knockoffs (98S1w). The manual said that you could get the caliper off, so I tried. It got stuck coming off, went back on with a bit of work, then came off on the second attempt. I thought it would be impossible to get back on, but it actually slid right on. If they had shaped the wheel rim ever so slightly differently, it would have been an easier job. Al |
