| Author | Message | ||
     Hkwan |
So, I noticed it when I had the clutch lever squeezed in, in first gear and hit the ignition button. The bike stalled. This happened once. So today I had it in 1st gear, clutch lever squeezed in and pushed it. Boy, SOOOOO VERY difficult to push. Meaning even with the clutch lever squeezed in, seems like the clutch is still partially engaged. I could push the bike, but with a lot of effort. So does it mean I just need to adjust the clutch cable or something else? If only the cable has to be adjusted, then do I just adjust the nut from inside that clutch cable boot or do I follow the manual and take the clutch cover out (3 screws), take the spring out and use the flat screw driver to turn it until it bottoms... I actually can't understand what the procedure is for. What is that spring/hex plate for? Please help. This is on a XB12R. I don't know how long this has been going on since I don't ever push the bike around with it in first gear. | ||
| Hkwan |
BTW, when the transmission is in neutral, the bike rolls freely without even squeezing the lever like it suppose to be. | ||
| Kootenay |
Hkwan, my XB9 is the same: if it's cold, I need to put in in neutral to move it--the clutch seems very sticky. I pretty much always start it in neutral, anyway. The first shift into gear is always a bit of a lurch. But once I've ridden a few minutes, it's fine, and once it's warm I can move it in gear with the clutch pulled in. I assume it has to do with the fact the transmission oil is separate from the engine oil, and a bit heavier weight too--that might tend to sorta "glue" the plates together until the clutch and transmission warms up a bit. | ||
| Hkwan |
Kootenay, that is comforting to hear. Thank you. I will remember to push it in gear, clutch lever squeezed after a ride to see if it does that. The bike stalling when I started it due to said issue (or non issue for XB's) kinda sucks though. The really weird thing is that when I walked the bike back out of the space, in gear, lever squeezed, it moved freely that day! But when I tried to start it, it stalled the first time. Thank you. | ||
| Kootenay |
If it's an 03, there's a sidestand interlock which might be problematic (I had an awful time of it the first time I went to take off with the sidestand accidentally down--every time I'd release the clutch, it died, and I didn't know why, as I'm used to bikes which will die the instant I shift into gear with the stand down rather than when I release the clutch). If the starter was able to spin the engine over in gear, I doubt there would be enough clutch drag to stall it. | ||
| Surveyor |
Sounds like you need to adjust your clutch. The cable adjuster (in the rubber boot) is only relevant if you have too much (or too little) free play at the lever on the bar. Follow the manual and adjust the clutch as described, it's simple. The only difficulty can be removing the adjuster cover, don't pry it out with a metal screwdriver as you can chip the casing finish (guess how I know that) You don't say where you are but here in Ireland cold weather and heavy transmission oil often cause a bit of clutch 'drag' until everything gets warmed up. Also don't push your bike while it's in gear it's too much like hard work and thats what the engine is for!! | ||
| Jlnance |
FWIW - I think what you are describing is normal. All 3 of my Buells have behaved like this. They are very easy to push in Neutral, and much more difficult to push in gear with the clutch pulled in. I have assumed that this is because even with the clutch in, you are turning engaged gears in the transmission. But that is not totally what is going on. I have found that if it is cold and you try to start the bike in gear the the clutch in, the bike definitly wants to move forward. I'm not up on clutch design, but my understanding is that the clutch on these things is two sets of plates that get sandwitched together when the clutch is engaged. The plates are actually partially submerged in oil. It stands to reason that when the oil is cold and thick, some force is going to be transmitted through, even though the plates are not actually touching. | ||
| Blake |
What JLN said. Wet clutch, cold, thick oil. What you are describing is perfectly normal. Sugges you don't start your bike with it in gear if you can help it. | ||
| Kdan |
Mine is like that too...actually, both of mine are like that. I didn't give it any serious thought. If you're in gear it rolls harder with the engine off. I put it in neutral when that happens. | ||
| Hkwan |
Got it; thank you all for the info. So when in gear, engine cold, when you push the bike with clutch lever squeezed in, the bike rolls harder for you guys. Does the harder translate to feeling like trying to push a dead deer laying on its side down the street? My XB bearly moves. I will try to push the bike after a ride when it is warm next time. I am in CA, U.S. About 40deg out. | ||
| Jlnance |
Does the harder translate to feeling like trying to push a dead deer Yes, thats a very good description of it.  | ||
| Kootenay |
I've never tried to push a dead deer down the street (oh, the opportunities we miss!) but I have pushed a dead bike or two...the Buell clutch drag when cold is VERY noticeable, feels like the rear wheel is nearly locked (even though my clutch is adjusted correctly). As I said, the drag goes away once warm. | ||
| Blake |
Henry, You got it. LOL! The colder the tranny lube, the bigger that deer gets too.  | ||
| Hkwan |
Thank you all!!! | ||
| Metalstorm |
My old Kawa Zephyr 750 was a freakin 10 point buck to push when it was cold. Luckily My 12Scg is nothing more than an enthusiastic Bambi. |
