| Author | Message | ||
     Jiml |
DAve, Great looking sidestand. Now the way I see it you should get the bag mounts and fairing mounts powdercoated that shade of blue....hahaha What's up with that shifter???? later, jiml | ||
| Dave |
Jim ... yous talkin' ta me?" ;-) I actually took the bag mount off today (again ... hahaha) and I'm contemplating sending it off. If nothing else it'll get a shot of Krylon before it goes back on. I'd really like to trim the rear license plate mount some way but the bag braces pose a bit more thought. And if I do the fairing mount, I'll ride around looking like a Speed Triple. Shifter? Ya don't like my shifter? :-) DAve Oh yeah and Tripper ... the color matches very well. | ||
| Tripper |
Email is going to my parts guy, Thanx. | ||
| Nemo |
http://www.urethanesupply.com Has a ton of information about repairing fairings. Does anyone know what type of plastic Buells use. I cannot find any markings. | ||
| Court |
Can flimsy plastic dirt bike panels be painted ? Court | ||
| X1mchip |
Looked at two 2001 X1s today, one red and one black and noticed the finish is not deep like regular painted parts. I know the fender and tank cover is the new material with the color all the way through, but it was just color with no depth. Can this material be buffed or polished to give more shine? I also thought the decals were kinda cheap looking. Just my opinion, but for me " What can shine will shine" the new body parts need work. But what do I know!!! Chip | ||
| Blake |
Court: A buddy of mine painted the fenders on his dirt bike. He scuffed em with 220 grit, primed and painted them using aerosol from Walmart. Actually looked good, would be even better with quality paint and professional treatment. I once similarly painted the plastic side panels on an old Yammer XZ550RJ Vision streetbike. Worked fine. I used alcohol and acetone to ensure a good clean surface for the new paint. The primer is a must though I think. | ||
| S2no1 |
Court, I'd use a water base paint. The oil bases may not adhere well to the plastic. Arvel | ||
| Court |
Thank you guys. I have an idea that may either get me jailed . . . or sent of psychiatric evaluation. This is the way the 1990 super RS-1200, the Sportster that Erik dubbed as "dangerously fast" and Barney had their beginnings. We'll see. I have to see if I can wrangle a special person into painting it. Thanks again, Court | ||
| Sparky |
S3 tail light stripped screws. Does anybody have a quick fix for this? Not consulting this board first I tried an initial attempt. I squirted red loctite into the screw hole, actually I poked some into the hole with a Q-Tip. This didn't work. The loctite stuck to the screw but didn't stick to the plastic bezel. Next I tried bushing up the stripped hole with a 1/2" long piece of PVC shrink sleeving that was approx the dia of the screw's overall thread dia. I split the sleeving lengthwise and cut about 1/16" out of its width so that there would be a gap when the screw enters the hole. I covered the outside of the sleeving with Super Glue and stuck the sleeving into the screw hole, then reassembled the taillight. The anomalous screw tightened up real good while the other screw seemed to want to strip out. Darn! Oh well. Here we go again. Long term road test to follow. In the meantime, let's hear what you all have found that works, besides replacing with a new unit (probably what a dealer would say)  Sparky | ||
| Smadd |
Sparky... as you've noticed, it's a "cheesy" setup. What I've found to work is a broken off toothpick jammed into the hole. The screw will then grip. Works pretty good. But... it won't last forever. I'm not sure about Loctite... I recently used it and I don't think the plastic likes it. Like you, I now have the assembly Superglued together! I have to replace my taillight and the reflector assembly because plastic pieces are broken now (internal). They got really brittle and just fell apart! When I replace them, I think I'll be *extra* careful when I work with the assembly in the future. And if needed, I'll stick with a little bit of wooden toothpick for grip. Good luck. I'll be watching to see if there are some better solutions. By the way... the taillight lens is about $18... I haven't found out how much the reflector piece is yet. Steve | ||
| Matty |
Smadd, you've got it right. Something about the Loctite fumes makes the plastic very brittle. | ||
| Fpostow97s3 |
Sparky: I had the same thing happen 2 years ago and the following was my solution which has held up since then. Take an outlet insulator, the kind you get at home depot to prevent cold air from entering your house through the outlet or light switch and do the same thing Smadd did with the toothpick. Jam a bunch of it in there. It provides more than enough grip to keep the screw in and like I said it's lasted 2 years so far. The one I used was made out of spungy black plastic stuff. That's as technical as I'll get. Bobmber: How did the M2 turn out? | ||
| Bomber |
Ma Duece is moving right along . . . .got the dash 75% done, the puke can is cut and ready for welding/assembly, and I have a bunch of white masking tape on the rear body work, simulating the smaller bodywork . . . . . if history is any indication, I'll waffle and hem and haw for another couple of weeks, plan my way 6 ways to sunday, and then just fire up the dioe-grinder and do it in 10 minutes. I'll post pics, tho . . .count on it | ||
| Fpostow97s3 |
Bomber: That's exactly what I did when I chopped the rear of my S3. Taped it and then went right to it with a Dremmel. Piece of cake. Just breathe deep and go to it.  | ||
| Bomber |
fpost . . . .yer right as rain, brother . . . . .I've got the profile marked out on one side, and tryin to get it symetrical . . . .I'm trimming to just below the frame tube . . . . .I think I figured out a method, but will try it next weekend . . . . . . . your scoot looks grat, btw rosberg | ||
| Fpostow97s3 |
I wish. It's in pieces right now. But that's a good thing. Considering 1 1/2 feat of snow is coming down. Re-working the exhaust, braided oil lines, and some good cleaning. That's it. Looking forward to seeing your finished M2. | ||
| Bomber |
Finished? what's that? oh, yeah, that state that exists between major projects . . . . . | ||
| X96283 |
hello, does anyone have part numbers for the mounting hardware of a chin spoiler? i grafted one onto my m2 but want to use the buell specific bolts, spacer etc... thanks giusto oahu | ||
| Rocketman |
If you can read it, thank Trippy. He lifted it off Labusas...............  Rocket in England | ||
| Tripper |
Here is a clearer view of the parts list that goes with the drawing above. Note that the chin fairing p/n is determined by the color you want. (I think that is the last 2 letters?) Copyright credit to the guy on LABusa who was kind enough to send this to me.  | ||
| Hogluvr |
Hello once again, it is time for my dumb-question-of-the-week: Do they sell touch-up paint to match the powdercoating (silver) on my S1? Thanks Mike | ||
| Hogluvr |
Also, what color is my '98 S1?? I see three reds listed- Snap Red, Canyon Red, & Spark Red. Does anyone know which one is the '98 color? | ||
| Mikej |
Hogluvr, I was at my local dealership and they had a whole display rack with touch-up paints. Not a direct answer to your questions, but yes some or all colors are available in touch-up paint bottles (little one or two ounce sizes). | ||
| Hogluvr |
Mikej, Thanks, went to the dealer this morning & picked up the paint - I just hope I got the right shade of red (I bought Spark Red). | ||
| Tripper |
Hogluvr - HOLD IT. I think Spark Red is an S3 color. Would somebody with a red bike answer this guy, what is the correct red for 1998 S1? (I'm thinking Snap Red, and if Buell hadn't removed the archived web site we could tell. Apparently the dealer didn't have a clue, gosh what a suprise.) | ||
| Ccryder |
Tripper: I think you are correct that Snap Red and Canyon red are not S1 colors. But, I don't recall a red for the S1's. Snap red and Canyon red are so close to each other that when 2 bikes are compared it is impossible to tell the difference. We compared 4 bikes at Home Coming, two S3's one S2 and one M2 and I think my 99' S3 was the only Spark red of the four and you could not tell the difference. My 00' X-1 Race Stripe is Snap red and it is darn close to primary red. The Spark and Canyon reds are darker almost a metalic finish. Red Snap:  Spark Red:  Neil S. | ||
| Hogluvr |
Ccryder, Tripper: The dealer was looking through Harley paint codes before I had to stop him!!  My bike looks a lot like the color in the bottom picture...Does anyone have a picture of Canyon Red? Thanks, Mike | ||
| Ccryder |
Mike: The Canyon red looks so much like the Spark red that it is hard to tell the difference. If you look here: badweb at the picture of the red bikes, the only one that is Spark Red is the one in the foreground, my old 99' S3 "Sparky". Or look at this pict:  Not bad for a little Buell history: 96' S2, 97' M2, 98' S3T, and Sparky a 99' S3T Later Neil p.s. hey Ed, Jim, my memory is fading again, what's that T-bolt driver's name to my left? | ||
| S2no1 |
Egads, Apparently I don't know what color my bike is. Now I've got to decipher the VIN to check. Why did you ask this question? Here I was thinking that it was Snap when it could be Spark, oh wait, Canyon, no Spark, uhh, where's my service manual? Arvel I'm not kidding, I think I've got it wrong in my profile |
