Author |
Message |
Jiml
| Posted on Tuesday, February 20, 2001 - 08:22 pm: |
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Road_King, I would side with Chuck on this one and keep my rockerbox breathers seperate from the trany vent. JMHO later, jiml |
Jmartz
| Posted on Wednesday, February 21, 2001 - 03:46 pm: |
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Has anyone used the banke oil cap successfully? I just got a new oil tank because the old one was leaking through the grommets. The new one is leaking through the bung. Jose |
Stevep
| Posted on Wednesday, February 21, 2001 - 04:41 pm: |
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Jmartz, It was the first mod done on my S1W. Took some training at the HD dealer to teach the mech. that it was twist off, and not pull. Don't see why they did not make the tanks like that to begin with. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Wednesday, February 21, 2001 - 04:53 pm: |
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ATT: JMARTZ The most important part of installing is the propper GLUE!!!!!! The directions are to be followed exactley!!!! In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or HARDLEY-Harley |
Jmartz
| Posted on Thursday, February 22, 2001 - 01:36 pm: |
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Thank you guys I'll make sure I follow your advice. I haven't had a dry bike in 3 years, still striving for it. Jose |
Road_King
| Posted on Thursday, February 22, 2001 - 02:15 pm: |
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Chuck & Jim Thanks for your advice. Maybe I'll run both vents into a common puke bottle. |
Smadd
| Posted on Thursday, February 22, 2001 - 09:33 pm: |
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I know the oil pump was upgraded in '98. Can someone refresh my memory as to subsequent upgrades? Seems to me there's been one or two improved oil pumps since the '98. If so... are they simply bolt-in... or is some modification required? Thanx! Steve |
Buellistic
| Posted on Friday, February 23, 2001 - 06:03 pm: |
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ATT: Smadd The oil pump was a -91 to the 98 model year and changed to -98 until the 2001 model to -91A. The -98 pump is a little longer and takes longer bolts. Pull one pump out use new gaskets and put the new pump in. If you need more INFO call me (813)661-2664 I'll talk you thru it. In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley |
Smadd
| Posted on Saturday, February 24, 2001 - 12:04 am: |
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Might take you up on that Buellistic.. after Bike Week. In the meantime... I'm getting off my duff here and going out to the garage to read my service manual. When in doubt... read the documentation... right? Steve |
Hogluvr
| Posted on Saturday, February 24, 2001 - 12:38 pm: |
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Being a new Buell owner, I have a dumb question...Can I put one of H-D's "extra-long" oil filters on my '98 S1 to increase oil capacity. They've been doing this on the Harleys for years, and with the puny oil tank on the S1, any extra oil capacity seems like it will help keep the motor from frying up. Also, what about an oil cooler. Any recommendations?? Thanks, Mike |
Smadd
| Posted on Saturday, February 24, 2001 - 02:26 pm: |
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Hi Mike. I've got a '98 S3 and have been running the "long" filters since it was new. Lot's of people do it... it does increase the capacity a bit. I have a Jagg oil cooler on mine. Whether or not one is needed is always a subject of debate. I just recently put on one because the motor is putting out more power since a few modifications... I wanted to play it safe. BUT... I keep the cover on the cooler for at least ten miles... unless it's already hot out. Oil not warmed up enough doesn't do it's job right. And any condensation doesn't burn off like it should. If it's cool out at all... I never take the cover off. A tech I know, who used to *not* recommend coolers, now does. He says he's seen a number of Buell motors apparently damaged because of excess heat. Apparently, the Buells get run a little harder than the Harleys! Anyway... used correctly, a cooler can't hurt. Good luck and welcome to Buelldom! Steve |
Blake
| Posted on Saturday, February 24, 2001 - 03:34 pm: |
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Even just running the larger filter provides significantly more cooling to the oil, plus a little more capacity. I run Mobil-1 and the big filter and feel plenty safe as far as high temperatures go. Will also switch to the cooler plugs when I return to TX (see the Service Buelletin on that subject in the Knowledge Vault for more info). |
Hogluvr
| Posted on Saturday, February 24, 2001 - 08:56 pm: |
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Thanks, guys, appreciate the info... |
Hogluvr
| Posted on Saturday, February 24, 2001 - 09:10 pm: |
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By the way, while I'm thinking about it...Would anyone know what would cause so much pressure to build up inside the oil tank to cause the dipstick to pop out after running for about a minute?? I just bought the bike from a HD dealer, and when I started it up when I got it home, it started puking oil out the back, and the dipstick was hanging out. It looked like it was a little overfilled, so I drained a little oil & started it back up. After about a minute, the dipstick popped out and flew over the bike. It still wants to blow the dipstick through the seat, but it no longer pukes oil. Is there some sort of breather that might be plugged up? I own two Harleys, and have never run into this problem. The dealer said they serviced & road-tested it before I took it home (I brought it home in my truck, so I didn't ride it), and when I told them what was going on, they said they would get back to me. Just thought I would get an opinion from someone who might know what is going on... Thanks, Mike |
Edmanning
| Posted on Sunday, February 25, 2001 - 01:45 am: |
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Mike, Odds are it still had to much oil in it. I've done the same thing warming up the bike with the seat off. If the dipstick shows more than half with a cold engine its too full. Take Care, Ed "Hillbilly" Manning |
Buellistic
| Posted on Sunday, February 25, 2001 - 07:23 am: |
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ATT: Hogluvr TOO MUCH OIL IN SYSTEM!!!!! M2.S1/X1,& S3 mode are a 2 1/2 quart system. MECHANICS are well known for putting 3 quarts in the 2 1/2 quart system. In cold weather it will blow the push in oil plug about 10 foot in the air if you have the seat off on a cold start. In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley |
Hogluvr
| Posted on Sunday, February 25, 2001 - 09:10 am: |
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Thanks, guys, I'll double-check the level and drain a little more if I need to, then try it again. I didn't want to push my luck without asking someone first (being Buell-ignorant). Thanks for all your help. Mike P.S. Someday it may get warm enough here in Ohio to actually ride the darn thing!! |
Hogluvr
| Posted on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 03:20 pm: |
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Well, drained a little more oil, still wants to pop the dipstick out...I think I'll completely drain it this weekend, change oil & filter (oil looks old, I was going to do it anyway), the bike may have been sitting awhile, there may be moisture in the crankcase... Confused in Ohio <----new nickname |
Aaron
| Posted on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 03:57 pm: |
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The tank is vented to the engine with a line that runs from the top of the tank to the rear edge of the cam box cover. The engine is vented out the hole in each cylinder head. Check and make sure none of those lines are pinched or otherwise obstructed. |
Bigfanof6
| Posted on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 06:09 pm: |
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Okay guys, I have an oil leak question. With 421 miles on the bike, I'm getting oil seepage from the primary cover. I've seen others doing this, including the demo I rode, but naturally, I thought mine wouldn't do it. I'll be taking the bike in to the dealer for the 500 miles service next week, and I'm wondering if I should make them fix this, or just get used to it. If they DO fix it, does the fix actually work, or does it start leaking again two weeks later? I KNOW I'm not the first one with this problem, so you guys let me know what you did to fix yours.
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Smadd
| Posted on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 06:37 pm: |
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That looks excessive to me. Make 'em fix it. A good dealer will w/o any questions... it's not a big deal to correct. Mine has 35,000 miles on it and it's never seeped like that. Maybe the guy who tacked it on during assembly had a bad day. Steve |
Hogluvr
| Posted on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 08:40 pm: |
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Thanks, Aaron, I'll check that out when I change the oil... |
Jmartz
| Posted on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 10:14 pm: |
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After I replaced the oil tank on my '96 S1 I thought the weeping and wetness would go away. Unfortunately, although seepage through the loose grommets was not present in the new tank quite a lot of oil was coming out the bung. The oil level was low and the pressure equalizing hose was not obstructed. What was going on? The fit of my '96 bung on the '98 style tank (that is all that is avalilable now) was not up to snuff. I decided to try the Banke oil cap. Good news! I finally have a dry bike, in the rear at least. The front is another matter. Jose |
Al_Lighton
| Posted on Tuesday, February 27, 2001 - 10:19 am: |
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I'll second Jose on the Banke oil cap...it's good idea all the way around. It stays on, it doesn't leak (IF you glue it right!), but most important of all, it creates a damn that keeps sand/dirt from falling into your oil tank as you remove your cap. Highley recommended, they should come from the factory with a dam on them. X1s do. Al |
Hogluvr
| Posted on Thursday, March 01, 2001 - 01:16 pm: |
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OK, time for another dumb question from the new Bueller...Does anyone have the factory p/n for the "long" oil filter for my '98 S1? Is this the same filter used on the Sportsters? The dealer I ride out of still doesn't sell Buells (how ignorant) and I was wondering if I could pick up the filter there, or if I had to go to a dealer that sells Buell parts. Also, I don't have a manual (yet), but the manuals for my Harleys state that you should add 4 oz. of oil to the filter before installing on the Sportster. Is this necessary for the Buell also? Anything else I need to know?? Thanks for putting up with all my dumb questions, I'm off to the carburetion section to ask another one!! Mike |
Aaron
| Posted on Thursday, March 01, 2001 - 01:28 pm: |
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Mike: lots of folks use the long "Dyna" filter ... just tell your dealer you want a filter for a Dyna Glide. Put as much oil in as you can without making too big of a mess when you put it on. Your filter is in the pressure side, so the time it takes to fill the filter with oil on the first startup is time without oil pressure. AW |
Clydeglide
| Posted on Thursday, March 01, 2001 - 02:11 pm: |
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ok here's the situation The engine from "project Jeep" has been rebuilt and ready to be reinstalled. New pistons, rings, cam, bearings, lifters etc. So what does this have to do with a Beull? you ask. The question is does it get Mobil 1 now or later? Why? Clyde |
Aaron
| Posted on Thursday, March 01, 2001 - 03:24 pm: |
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call 1-800-ASK-MOBIL |
Blake
| Posted on Thursday, March 01, 2001 - 06:31 pm: |
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GM sells their Corvettes filled Mobil-1 don't they? "Synthetic oil is so slippery it won't allow your rings to seat..." It's a myth! Synthetic ain't no slipperier than conventional oil. Viscosity is viscosity and their ain't no other way around it. Now the anti-wear additives might come into play. Maybe GM has special Mobil-1 break-in oil that has different/less anti-wear additives? Be safe, use olive oil. That way, if the rings don't seat and it burns oil, it'll at least smell good. Let us know what Mobil says Clyde. |
Clydeglide
| Posted on Thursday, March 01, 2001 - 08:44 pm: |
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Aaron, Blake Thank you. Blake, I agree with you. In fact I already have the oil and I will call Mobil. As you know I have some automotive background including a few years working with Porsches, also filled with Mobil 1. All those rings seated just fine. GM and Chrysler do have an additive called Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) which is (was?) added to new motors at the factory and at knowledgeable dealerships for engine rebuilds or replacements to aid break-in. I will put in a bottle. Should see you in Daytona next Friday. |
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