| Author | Message | ||
     Bluelightning |
Well, I see that I warped the front rotor on my X-1 with a mere 18,567 mile on the bike.. I recently put on the Lyndall Gold pads on the front and they stop awesome! The pads have very little wear on them and I hate to throw them away, how bad would it be if I used them on the new rotor? Or should I just cut my losses and get a new set of pads to go with the new rotor? | ||
| Reepicheep |
I can't imagine there would be any problem reusing the pads, so long as the wear pattern is not all whacked out. | ||
| Blue02m2 |
Wow! How did you manage to warp a rotor? I warped one by trying to muscle off a caliper without taking the time to pull the pads. I put it back on and did some hard breaking and the pads actually straightened it back out for me  This was of course on a tuber without the high tech rotors. | ||
| Dave |
The rotor on my S3 has warped a couple of times. Both times it was the old '99 style rotor. DAve | ||
| Djkaplan |
I've warped two factory rotors on my 2000 M2 in a little over 20,000 miles. I've always felt the front brake on my bike could be better, but I do abuse the hell out of it. Suggestions? | ||
| Jlnance |
Does the rotor really warp, or does it get glazed spots on it? | ||
| Reepicheep |
The easy way to tell is with lever travel. Pulsing can come from warping or glazing, but if you are warped the travel of that front brake lever goes *way* up. Maybe up to "three pumps before braking starts" bad if you have a damaged rotor. | ||
| Djkaplan |
"Does the rotor really warp, or does it get glazed spots on it?" The disc is warped. I heard that warping could be caused by applying the brake really hard when you're stopped. I don't remember ever doing that, but I don't remember not doing it either. I've never really like the feel of the front brake, it's always been a bit inconsistent. | ||
| Rick_a |
I have one warped rotor on my dual disk setup. Not enough to pulse the brake lever, but enough that it drags in one spot when the bike is pushed around. It's weird, one is warped and the other is heat spotted. I wonder if the factory Buell Nissin and an Aftermarket Nissin come with different pad compounds? My setup is really funky. When the brake system is cold the lever almost comes to the bar and the performance sucks. After it warms I get a solid lever and feel and performance is phenominal, albeit a bit touchy. If you don't ease the brakes initially, you'll get the front tire squirming and squealing. | ||
| Bluelightning |
Well the pads are in great shape and I have since changed out the rotor. Had to go through the lyndall bed in procedures again just to make sure that the pads got set with the new rotor. Seems to be working great and no slight chatter when I really put on the binders either. |
