| Author | Message | ||
     00' X-1 Race Stripe, Neil S. (Ccryder) |
Travis: Have you checked to see if their is enough slack in the harness? My X-1 and old S3 had plenty of extra harness. If not that would be a harness that carries most of the real juice for the whole bike so your splices would have to be 1st rate. Give me a part number from your 97' switch and I'll check my 99' & 00' book. Neil | ||
| Blake (Admin) |
Don, Rocket: Good lively non-Buell, non-electrical debate! Take it to the Quick Board please? Hope you don't mind if I cull your posts from this page, hell, I'll even create a special subtopic on the Quick Board just for your debate; it's interesting, just not on-topic for this page. | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
Has anyone heard a rumour that Buell is no longer making the M2 Tach Kit for 99-00 bikes? This info was posted on ATB, but it seems hard to believe, as the kit was just released a couple of months ago. | ||
| Bigblock |
Hi guys, I priced a 00 X1 tach recently, it was about 85$ ! I'm thinking a 01 M2 tach couldn't be much more ? I haven't priced one yet, but a dash would be cake to fab, just some flat al stock, cut some holes, install. Mike at www.streetwise.cc says he'll be making a M2 dash soon, as well. Well, food for thought.... Ray | ||
| Peter |
Bigblock, I used an X1 tach on mine and made my own panel. It came to about a quarter the price of the factory kit. PPiA | ||
| Tat2steve |
Has anyone had any experience with some driving lights called Night Cutters from Saeng/TA in Columbus NE? Thanks, tat2steve | ||
| Roblasonja |
Guys! Merry Christmas ! I need an electrical special-person who knows about starting problems. My '98 S1WL doesn't want to start. It WILL start, but doesn't want to. When I push the starter button, the starter spins...at first without engaging anything. After a couple seconds, the engine starts to turn over, but slowly. The first time it fires, the starter lets go (though still spins) and takes a couple seconds to grab the engine again. It only does this when it's cold (40 degrees) and only for the last few days...Oh, I left the bike sitting in the garage without running for a month (mid Nov - mid Dec) while I was overseas, but I charged the battery well before trying to start it the first time. Is this something I can fix, or do you think the starter needs replacing? Any of you guys have other starter related problems? Thanks, Rob | ||
| Bigblock |
Rob, First thing I'd check would be the battery, it sounds like it might be on it's way out. Ray | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
Hey, does anyone know what the "standard" (i.e. black plastic) dash for the '01 M2 and the tach would cost in comparison to the metal finish kit for $265? I'm not sure I like the metal look, even though the plastic is somewhat cheap. Just curious if anyone priced this as an option. | ||
| Peter |
Drew, I tried pricing one in Holland, but the parts list was not yet available for them. PPiA | ||
| Aikigecko |
Hey Rob I agree with bigblock it sounds like your battery has started to loose its cold cranking amps. The Wife ran my bike about every three days for two weeks while I was out of the country and as it turned out all that really accomplished was to bleed the battery (it dropped about 3 volts) since the bike (and the battery) are brand new some real long rides charged it up again and I haven't had any problems since. last check up (5000 miles) it was just fine. On a completely different subject has anyone heard of a replacement for the headlight that contains one of those new "blue" bulbs. About the only thing I envy about the plastic bike crowd is that they can use these bulbs. I have ridden with a few guys who have them and all I can saw it WOW!!! Talk about seeing everything. I have looked at the headlight on my Blast and it is a sealed unit...no changing the bulbL Peace Tony | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
Tony, If you call ASB, they have a bunch of options for the lighting units and bulbs. I think that the most extensive setup that they have is an actual HID/Xenon Light Kit (similar to the ones on some European cars). It is the Xenon that actually gives the "blue" effect, and they are amazing. It is really expensive, though...I think the kit was over $500, but don't quote me. They also have replacement bulbs...are you sure that the Blast's cannot be replaced? I'll bet you could replace it with a Cyclone's unit or an X-1's, and then the bulbs would be changeable. They sell "plasma" bulbs that kinda replicate this blue high-output light, but on the same wattage as the stock bulbs (i.e. 110 W output from a 55 W bulb). There have been some postings that say that they are pretty good. Hope this helps. Drew | ||
| Aikigecko |
Near as I can tell the actual filament for the lamp is a tripod shaped thing making it impossible to remove (whole pieces is another matter). I was wondering about changing out the headlamp for a Cyclone unit. I just have to figure out how to attach it (different mounting hardware). The Plasma bulb was what I was looking for I think now to go price everything. Peace Tony | ||
| Tonyinvabeach |
I couldn't find this in the archive. Given the colder than normal temperatures here in Virginia, I am once again contemplating heated grips..or at least electric clothing. Short trips (less than an hour) are fine, but I need some supplemental heat for long range trips or full day rides. I've got a 2000 M2 Cyclone and I'm looking for anyone who has either modified their grips or who are using Witter or some other brand of electric clothing. I have a six year warranty so I need an answer that won't void it. Thanks in advance for the help. Tony | ||
| Dave |
"Santa Clause" brought me an Aerostitch "unobtanium" electric vest that I was finally able to check out today. Temps ranged from 30 to the lower 40s here in the St Louis area. Wearing it under my Aerostitch, I didn't get cold and I never got hot either. (Santa opted to not get the $60 thermostat with it) I rode a bit after dusk without it turned on and I noticed a big difference. I recommend one ... DAve | ||
| H_Man |
Hey Tony, Aerostich offers an electrically heated grip pad that wraps over the grips (item #102 @ $37 and item # 103 - includes a switch - @ $47). I haven't used it (yet). They say it only draws 1 amp current, so it should require anything other than s/u. Given the physiological reason hands and limbs normally get cold, you may well be BEST off getting the electric vest or electric liner. When you can keep the trunk of your body warm, the blood flow throughout the entire body will remain normal (versus the body thinking some dire •••• is happening and it needs to reduce blood flow and keep more blood for warmth and nurishment of the vital organs in the trunk) and your hands and feet have a much better chance of staying warm. Hope this is useful. H-man | ||
| Gearloose |
H_Man,very true. I started out using a Eclipse electric vest years ago,and now for the past 5 years I use a Gerbling electric jacket liner.Full heat to arms and neck besides really keeping the back TOASTY. Makes for much more enjoyable riding here in Iowa in the late fall. It also makes you a little safer when you are more comfortable when riding instead of shivering. I installed a BMW plug on the liner and mounted the BMW female recepticle and braket down by the batt.with a inline fuse holder like the Buell type fuse.Works great,to bad there is so much #$%^&* snow on the ground here to go riding,besides salt and sand. | ||
| Gearloose |
Also forgot,I have Gerbling electric gloves that plug into the sleeves on the liner. Who says the Beemer yuppies are the only ones comfortable!!! No I don't eat bagels!! Gearloose | ||
| Troop |
Wondering basically what CycloneM2Drew is about 01 M2 dash plate. Sounds like Buell hasn't released that part# yet. Don't wanna lose sales to the $280. tach kit ? The X1 and M2 tach are the same size. The X1 tach is $82. vs. $120. for the M2s. The X1 tach will have 2 lights(fuel/?) that won't work on the M2. You have to decide if thats worth the $40. savings. The hardware(tach cup,nuts,washers,screws,foam vibration ring) add about $20. to the equation. If the 01 M2 dash plate is reasonable,this may be the route to go. COME ON BUELL | ||
| Sparky |
Calling on the collective well of experience: Anybody have their negative battery cable loosen up at speed? Can this burn out the charging system? Thanks for any help. Sparky 96S1, 98S3 | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
Okay, here's the scoop on the M2 Tach Kit situation, as I've been told my dealer: The "kit" listed at the top of this page (and also in the '01 Accessories Catalog) is discontinued! There is no replacement part number listed either, as there sometimes is in the Buell parts system. I investigated the cost of the separate parts to convert to the stock (i.e. black plastic) dash of the '01 model, and found that the cost is really economical! I think the cost came out to under $120 all inclusive, but I'll post the actual part numbers and prices tomorrow. Basically, you need to order the tach itself, which comes with the harness, the plastic backing cover, and a bezel for the front. We compared the part #'s for the speedo, light cluster and ignition, and the '00 and '01 are the same, so they should swap over with no problems. I should have the parts soon, and I'll let you all know how the swap went. -Drew | ||
| Fastback69 |
Thanks Drew. I tried to get the P/N's from my dealer but they didn't have the '01 M2 parts manuals yet. This will be my next project. | ||
| Troop |
Here are the 00/01 tach kit numbers. 1. Dash Panel M2 # M0660.01A3 $11.70 2. 01 M2 Tach ,black bezel # 67329-99Y $82.80 3. Speedo rubber cushion # Y0633.K $8.25 4. Speedo/Tach cover box # 68837-99Y $10.85 5. Nut,S1(x2) # 7648Y $.20 6. washer,6mm x 13mm S(x2) # B0613.1Z $.10 Grand total of $113.90 plus applicable sales tax This is a deal !!! Wait a week to order it as I wanna make sure I get mine(hahaha) !! | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
All my parts and prices match Troop's...SUCH A DEAL! You may want to order two of the speedo cushions, though...I checked in the M2 manual, and this part is actually glued to the dash, and might be difficult to remove and relocate to the new dash (the other one would be for the tach). Also, the Fall Battle2win mag showed the "kit's" contents, and there were two of this part included. BTW...does anyone out there have the Metal dash Kit for the '99-00 M2's that can post the instructions? This would be a big help, rather than flipping through the service manual! | ||
| Loki |
INFO: for the 99-00 Tach Kit, #69100-99Y Tach: 67455-99Y Dash panel(billet): 69101-99Y Cup(for tach): 68337-99Y Gauge Mount Cushion: 68840-99Y wear pad(between dash and fly screen): 50210-99Y Ignition switch label: 32765-97Y Set-up: 1)remove the fly screen 2)take the fuel tank loose(need not remove completely) and set it sideways on the bike Removal of original: for the ignition switch; remove the lock ring(using a pliers wrap the ring with a rag), no need to electrically disconnect this, comes out towards the headlight speedo; follow the wire harness back to its connector and disconnect, after remving the cup(two hex nuts and washers)comes out towards you after the cup removal and the idiot lights idiot lights; on the rear there are four tabs that lock it into the dash panel, flip them away from the light assembly, light assembly removes to the rear(wire harness is incorporated with the speedo) both need to come out together! odometer reset switch; carefully pry up on the plastic retainer ring, not the rubber seal. the swich comes out towards the headlight once everything is apart the reassembly is easy, just pick which side you want the tach and speedo on. the gauge mount cushions are indexed to intall in one orientation(grooves0. this so the instrument will install in a relative posistion(vertical) no need to glue them in place! BOTH the tach and speedo need to be installed before you wire the tach in! reinstall evertything removed in its proper posistion wiring the tach: on the wiring harness connector(speedo end), flip the backside cover open(secondary wire retainer)(wiring will not fall out), install wiring from tach as follows: o/w - 1 w - 2 o - 3 - - 4 r - 5 - - 6 pk - 7 - - 8 bk - 9 bk - 10 color codes: w/o=white/orange, w=white, o=orange, pk=pink, bk=black, r=red for the tach the black wire can go in either 9 or 10, whichever is empty, orange wire goes to 3, the pink wire goes to 9 If using an X1 tach, the two remaining wires are for the check engine light and ?(the other idiot light)which are not required for the M2 install the new dash panel, plug the wiring harness back in, install the flyscreen and the gas tank. fire the bike up and check that the tach works(indicates and lights up). that is the short sweet simple version of the 6 pages of installion procedures! loki | ||
| Ccryder |
Loki: FWIW: The 2 extra wires on the FI bikes are for the check engine and the fuel reserve light. BTW, great instructions. Only thing I could add is, don't remove all the wire terminals screws, on the instruments, at once since they also hold the instruments togeher. As long as 1-2 are in place, things won't fall apart. | ||
| Ralph |
Sparky, that happend to me. Didn't have any problems with the charging system after I reconnected the cable. Wierded me out when it came loose. bighairyralph | ||
| Loki |
CC, I never disco'd any of them when I did the job, not even required. Thanks for the added info, just couldn't remember what both lights were. Got a couple ideas for the extra lights when using a X1 tach on the M2.... loki | ||
| Sparky |
Somehow I managed to fry the stator on my S3 last Sunday on the Palomar VII run. Unbeknown to me the negative battery cable loosened up on the one hour 80+ mph fwy trip to the start of the run in Oceanside. The only indication of something amiss was the thermostat my vest plugs into has a volt sensor that turns red if battery voltage drops below 12V. It's designed this way to prevent draining the battery while idling with electric clothing turned on. On the fwy it was red when I switched the vest on but went green when switched off. The only other time this happened was when I had a problem in the wires to the vest switch. So thinking the vest was faulty, I pressed on regardless and caught the Buellers going past at the offramp. What a (unfortunate) coincidence! If I would have gotten there earlier, I'd have shut the engine off at the dealers lot and it probably wouldn't restart. Then I'd have known there was a serious problem. Oh well. So I ran with the pack for about 20 miles when it sputtered and died. That's when I noticed that the idiot lights were barely lit, found the loose cable and resultant discharged battery. It was so weird because up until then there was nothing to indicate a problem. The bike ran great without alternator drag! But it's amazing to learn how far the bike will run on just the battery. With batt fully charged it'll go about 100 miles with the headlight on. W/o headlight and batt at 12.2V, exactly 76 miles. Don't ask how I know. It's a long story. Sparky 96S1, 98(I guess this proves I DO run around with a screw loose)S3 | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Troop, Yesterday evening I ordered the tach stuff you listed. All they had in stock was the nuts and washers (not really suprising news). It'll be interesting to see how long it takes for all parts to arrive. Thanks for the leg work on the part numbers. Seeing as how you are closer to Troy, I'll bet you get your stuff first! Loki, Do you know how much the billet dash panel runs? I may want to switch to the billet version. BluzM2 |
