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Mikex1
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2001 - 08:10 pm: |
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I just got a 1999 X1. I installed a V&H pipe. I have two questions. Do I get the Buell race ECM or the Dynojet programmer? Which will give me the best gains? Also, Do I buy the Force air intake or just a K&N for the factory air box? What about gutting the H-box? Love the bike, just need alittle more power. Ride Safe!!!! MikeX1 |
Mikex1
| Posted on Monday, January 08, 2001 - 08:13 pm: |
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Forgot to tell you, you can E-mail me at mmchughes@aol.com Thanks for any info MikeX1 |
Eeeeek
| Posted on Tuesday, January 09, 2001 - 07:32 pm: |
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Mike: First off, gutting the airbox is a good thing. If you're wanting to go with Force, you're going to have to either heavily modify the breadbox or ditch it altogether. If you ditch it, there will be an ugly gap tehre showing the fuel cell. A couple of companies make some "filler" pieces, American Sport Bike being my favorite (link up top). PCII vs. Race ECM. Still seems to be up for debate. In theory, the PCII can do better; however, I haven't seen anyone prove it. Either way, to really get the full gains you're goin got need a better flowing header and pipe. The Race kit is very good and Kooks seems to do a touch better. The Kooks is very LOUD, though. I like it, but it's a little too much for some. What I personally did is went for the full race kit: ECM, header, pipe and air cleaner. This maintains a near stock look and give you gobs more midrange. I had a V&H for the first 5,000 miles (when I first got my bike the race kit did not exist) and I don't miss it at all. In fact, I gave it to a friend. Vik |
Mikex1
| Posted on Wednesday, January 10, 2001 - 11:59 am: |
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Vik, Thanks for the info. I talked to some other people too and decided to go with race ECM. They said to start with it and if more power is needed to add the programmer too. I think the ECM will do though. Thanks again. Ride Safe !!!!! Mike |
Fastback69
| Posted on Wednesday, January 10, 2001 - 12:39 pm: |
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Fastback69
| Posted on Wednesday, January 10, 2001 - 12:41 pm: |
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Does the tube in the H-box provide tuned intake pulses like a true tuned-intake mainfold? There is a formula for T.I.R intakes but I can't remember what it is. The 5.0 liter system uses 15 inch tubes for an effect at 4500 rpm's. My truck has tubes around 30 inches long for a 2000 rpm effect zone. It seems like it could work, except for the packaging, on a Buell. Several car companies have overcome the tube length problem with variable length tubes. They utilize tubes of a set length and two chambers of different length with a sealed door to separate the two. At a given rpm, the door will connect the tubes to either chamber to change their length. I know its a little complicated, but with a little redneck inginuity... |
Troop
| Posted on Monday, January 15, 2001 - 05:34 pm: |
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Anyone know how much the forcewinder filter system is ? Do both the XR and XR2 come with the breather kit as the XR2 says for fuel injection bikes ? |
Loki
| Posted on Monday, January 15, 2001 - 09:54 pm: |
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Troop, figure between $250 and $300 for either. They both come with a breather kit. The XR2 is for the fuelies. The large pipe under the filter is for relocating the air temp sensor into the filter housing. You also have options on a polished finish or: black or white powdercoating. loki |
Loki
| Posted on Monday, January 15, 2001 - 09:55 pm: |
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Troop, figure between $250 and $300 for either. They both come with a breather kit. The XR2 is for the fuelies. The large pipe under the filter is for relocating the air temp sensor into the filter housing. You also have options on a polished finish or: black or white powdercoating. The breather kit with the XR2 comes with the aluminum lines while the XR comes with only hoses. loki |
Cyclonem2drew
| Posted on Tuesday, January 16, 2001 - 11:28 am: |
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Maybe someone can help me with this. I installed a K & N in my existing Helmholtz air box on my M2. Problem is...when I dismantled the thing (with the stock filter) I neglected to pay attention to the fit of the box on the snorkel, or the condition of the snorkel itself. After installing the filter, I'm noticing that the snorkel doesn't fully go into the filter box the way it does in the service manual...almost, but not perfect. I've checked the gaskets and the fit of the filter itself, and all seems fine there. I also noticed at that point that the snorkel tube itself has a large seem along the side that I hadn't noticed earlier. It is not cracked through, and I don't think I stressed the tube...it just looks like a manufacturing defect. Anyway, has anyone seen either of these two problems before? Any input appreciated! |
Hans
| Posted on Wednesday, January 17, 2001 - 01:49 pm: |
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Was attended on this very interesting airfilterbox: On this site: http://www.roadracingitalia.com/english/bandbuell.htm Hans |
Cyclonem2drew
| Posted on Wednesday, January 17, 2001 - 11:35 pm: |
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Well, picked up the Force Filter kit after all...but no real instructions included. Does anybody have a set they could scan? The one page sheet refers to a non-existant picture, and isn't real specific about the hoses and the smaller filter's placement. Thanks! |
Loki
| Posted on Thursday, January 18, 2001 - 02:08 am: |
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Drew, You really don't need destructions for this install. You will need this though, a ball end socket(hex) driver. As you start to open up/dismantle the stock airbox. Set aside all the hoses and plastic fittings for them. The elbow(Force) will only fit one way and be functional. Re-use both of the original breather bolts. The one in the kit, toss it in the trash! Using the two short pre formed elbows(hose) from the stock parts. Put a 90 degree fitting in one, in the other fit the 't' fitting. Place the one with the 90 degree on the front breather bolt pointing aft. Put the tee'd one on the rear bolt. Cut a piece of hose to join the two under the Force elbow. From the un-used barb on the 't' run the long hose to a convient place, strapping it to a frame rail. If you can place it where there is no real air flow across the filter, all the better. The air travelling past the filter will cause a vaccum in the line. This in turn will pull the umbrellas open in the heads. Which in turn will draw oil out of the engine. Thus making a mess of things. Less air flow across the vent filter means less of a mess. I chose to the route of putting a puke can on mine. So far it is working, drained the can just yesterday after an oil change. About a teaspoons worth of milky oil. this is not a problem with my motor. All it is water and oil. The can also traps condensation in it. As long as I drain it every couple days I have no messes to clean up. Most of the drainings are water not oil. loki |
Shooter
| Posted on Thursday, January 18, 2001 - 07:42 am: |
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Fuel Injection problem 2000 S3 ,Vance @ Hines,race ecm, gutted air box 10r12 plugs, 3300 MILES symptoms: gas mileage went from 200miles a tank to 160-170 plugs are wet fouling,especially on cold start slooow return to idle when hot (up to 15 seconds) runs great between 3000rpm-redline all sensors are within range according to dealer no trouble codes are registered swapped out ecm any suggestions? (other than a carb conversion) |
Dave
| Posted on Thursday, January 18, 2001 - 07:50 am: |
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Find another dealer? Still sounds like a sensor ... DAve |
Shooter
| Posted on Thursday, January 18, 2001 - 09:34 am: |
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oh yeah, intake seals have been replaced as well. I was hoping for a response from somebody who has some good FI experience. |
Shooter
| Posted on Thursday, January 18, 2001 - 09:46 am: |
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now the way I understand it, under 3000 rpm or when the O2 sensor is below 600 deg. f the ecm relies on the map, correct? That would lead me to believe the problem must reside in the ecm. The dealer took a known good ecm out of the sales managers bike and I rode it home, the idle hanging up at 2000 rpm for 5 - 15 sec.the drop in gas mileage was dramatic,and will be my benchmark for solving the problem. (by the way I commute daily on my bike so hitting every dealer in the area is not an option). |
Drandall
| Posted on Thursday, January 18, 2001 - 04:25 pm: |
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Shooter, My '99 fuellie S3 easily got 240miles per take before reserve (all stock). Something's waaaaaaaaaay wrong with you bike, dood. David |
Shooter
| Posted on Thursday, January 18, 2001 - 06:32 pm: |
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no . |
Hoser
| Posted on Thursday, January 18, 2001 - 08:29 pm: |
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Shooter: I need more info , such as ...... when did the problem begin ? , when were the intake seals replaced and why ? , what type of intake seal was used ?(the plastic ones w/integral seals can be a problem . You say the dealer ran a diagnostic check using the scanalyzer ? and found no trouble codes and the "tech" said all sensors were within range ? , what was the AFV (adaptive fuel value}. The AFV is of significance and can provide clues to solve the problem , for example if an intake manifold leak was present your engine would run lean , ........ the 02 senser would then tell the ECM , which would then richen the mixture (increased pulsewidth) .........This condition would then raise the adaptive fuel value to a higher percentage than what is normal for your elevation. Hoser |
Shooter
| Posted on Thursday, January 18, 2001 - 08:34 pm: |
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Hey Jeff, I was hoping you would pop out of the shadows on this one. Trouble began after I picked the bike up after a warranty rocker box fix.The next day I brought it back for the high idle, and the seals were changed as a knee jerk reation. |
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