| Author |
Message |
    
Buellin_ri
| | Posted on Friday, September 16, 2005 - 09:11 pm: | 
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fullpower are the temp sensors NTC type sensors? |
Tunes
| | Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2005 - 12:17 am: |
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Edmbueller - There are several things that can cause hot motor operation; a lean condition, low oil, no oil pressure, faulty temp sensor, faulty ECM, faulty throttle body, did I forget anything?
Anyway, a lean condition is an air leak or fuel starvation which WILL cause an engine to run hot. Also, a faulty temp. sensor will cause the engine to run hot, as I just discovered. With your bike being relatively new, you can concentrate on sensors first, ECM, and possibly an air leak. I'd lean towards the temp. sensor first... but I'm diagnosing a bike I haven't seen so, use your best judgement. |
Edmbueller
| | Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2005 - 01:44 am: |
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Thanks Tunes, now I just have to try to convince a non-Buell friendly Harley dealer to replace the temp sensor for free.... |
Pcmodeler
| | Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2005 - 05:28 am: |
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Yeah, seems to be a lot of those...
<<Thanks Tunes, now I just have to try to convince a non-Buell friendly Harley dealer to replace the temp sensor for free..>> |
Tunes
| | Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2005 - 09:04 am: |
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The exhaust popping upon deceleration is a normal condition... but it shouldn't pop alot. When you shut your throttle, you're greatly reducing the amount of fuel into the engine (lean condition)... and your engine is reving down from a couple K rpm. That's why it pops but, my XB (and most bikes), when running properly, pop very little. My S3 doesn't pop at all, but that's a different engine...
The procedure for replacing the temperature sensor is to rotate the engine out for access to the top of the rear cylinder head and the temperature sensor. This is not necessary. All you have to do is remove the airbox cover and airbox. Then, pop the sensor rubber boot out of the way and use the sensor "split" socket and a ball-end ratchet extention to remove the sensor. Once we broke the sensor loose, it came out very easily. Just repeat the procedure for installation. |
Edmbueller
| | Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2005 - 11:01 am: |
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Great info Tunes, that will probably save me a crapload of $$$ if I can't convince them to warranty the part and labor. |
Blake
| | Posted on Sunday, September 18, 2005 - 03:13 pm: |
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In the future please post topics like this to the applicable topic in the Knowledge Vault. We'll be moving this one there soon. Thanks for helping to get BadWeB organized. 
172689 |
Pcmodeler
| | Posted on Monday, October 03, 2005 - 01:40 pm: |
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Well, got my engine temp sensor last week and the slotted socket today, so hopefully I can find some time in the next few days to change out that sensor. If that don't work, looks like the bike will probably end up spending 3 weeks sitting at the Harley/Buell dealer again. That bike is within inches of being sold........ > |
Fullpower
| | Posted on Monday, October 03, 2005 - 01:50 pm: |
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buellin ri: yes the engine temp sensor is a negative temperature coefficient, ranging from zero resistance at 300 degrees C to 134.2 Kiloohms at zero celsius. the resistance at room temperature of 25 degrees C should be 41295 ohms.
the sensor lead can be accessed by probing the pink and yellow wire at pin 9 on the grey ecm connector, and resis=tance can be checked there with respect to ground.
(Message edited by fullpower on October 03, 2005) |
Pcmodeler
| | Posted on Monday, October 17, 2005 - 09:28 am: |
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Well, I changed the plug wires and the temp sensor. Running much better. Not getting the stall/hesitation problem. However, something still doesn't seem right. Nearly every time I've taken it out on the road, it skips/backfires at least once. It's like it misses a spark cycle on one cylinder. |
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Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) »
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Near stall/hesitation
