| Author | Message | ||
     Blue02m2 |
I've been advised that I've got a faulty ignition module by folks here on the board. Its an 2001 blast with less than 1500 miles on it. Going out to google and using words like "ignition module" and "buell" and "blast" will bring up dozens of hits where folks are ranting about having a module go bad in the first 1 to 2000 miles. Are these things just bad? Are the replacements updated so they'll last a bit longer? | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
I have a 2001 Blast with 14,000 miles on it and the stock ignition module. I'm sure they have only gotten better over the years. | ||
| Tnthumper |
blue, My stock ignition module went out on my '05 at approx 2000 miles.the replacement has over 3500 on it so I'm guessing it's just one of those things that will either go out early or never go out | ||
| Jprovo |
Good topic: I just replacd my ignition module at 35,500 miles. Doing a internet search for "ignition module" and "buell Blast" on Yahoo got about 30 hits, with about 5 talking about failed ignition modules. Searching the Thumper Forum on badweb for "ignition module" And it looks like we have 56 Hits, with about ten of those talking about bad ignition modules. I don't think that we have an epidemic here. It sounds like an uncommon failure... Hell, mine went for ~35000 miles without showing bad signs. That's about 35000 miles at about 50 Mph. So about 700 hours at a guess average of 3000 rpm is 2,100,000 revolutions, or avout 1 million combustion events. Not too shabby. James Trying to be an optimist about failing parts. | ||
| Swampy |
This spring, I had one go bad on the Big Kids Blast, 7500 miles. I had been chasing a backfire and power loss problem ever since we got the bike! When I replaced it the bike finally ran like the Little Kids Blast and I was so happy I would have paid double for the ignition module. I am wondering if these modules are sensitive to being cranked over without grounding the plug wire. | ||
| Tnthumper |
Swampy, what exactly was bike doing before you changed ignition module? Mine started intermittently cutting off for a split second like it's not getting fuel. but is only here and there for a split second. If it's my module this will be second one. this started about 500-600 miles ago. | ||
| Jprovo |
That sounds like what mine was doing. About once a day, after the motor got up to runing temp on 90+ degree days. James | ||
| Tnthumper |
Jprovo, Mine seems to do it more when it is hot but sometimes when cooler out like at night. Don't think it's the fuel vent hose as I've tried manually venting but still does it. Thought vent might be prob since it seemed worse on a freshly filled tank. | ||
| Jprovo |
I suggest a good carb cleaning, and checking the tank filter screen. Also check out your kickstand switch and TPS. I've heard of guys having their bikes (not usually on Blasts) cut out on big bumps when the kickstand moves. James | ||
| Tnthumper |
Jprovo, just re-jetted carb for intake/exhaust swap and made sure was good and clean.also ran some carb cleaner thru it. was going to screen next. john | ||
| Mmelvis |
A while back I was having the sputtering issue at the worst times. I changed out the ignition module and it still occurred. Even tried advancing the module about 1 degree, thought it helped but did not. One day while driving down the road it sputtered and then died and would not restart. Checked the boot no cracks, so while sitting there and flipping all the switches and trying to the start the bike it almost fired. Turns out my kill switch had gone south, I had to keep it pushed down in the ON position to keep it running. Got home and thought this will be an easy fix. First of all make sure you have the parts from the dealer before you take the right hand module apart. Second get ready to spend a lot of time with real small parts if you rebuild the switch. I opted to go to Radio Shack and get a weather resistant toggle switch, mainly because I had dropped to many of the small parts that were in the switch. Solder the wires on the new switch and good to go. I just want to make sure that if you choose to rebuild the switch you better have a parts manual or take a lot of pictures before removing any screws. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
New handlebar switches are $38.50 (or less), each side, complete unit with wires. In case anyone opts not to rebuild their own. | ||
| Tnthumper |
Checked fuel filter screen. was ok. was doing it even on fairly new smooth pavement. THEN today it shut down(luckily I was not in traffic),started right back up, THEN would'nt start back up for about 15 minutes. Got it running and took it to dealer(still under warranty only 11 months old). On way there got real bad for a couple miles. sputtered and backfired once so loud a friend who was following me on a Suzuki marauder 1600 with a 2 into 1 pipe thought it was his tire blowing out and could'nt believe that my bike backfired that loud. If this is another ignition module this will make 2 in 5852 miles and 11 months. Has anyone heard of maybe a bad batch of ignition modules on the 2005 bikes? I will let everyone know what they say when I get it back. | ||
| Matty |
I'm thinking that the pickup in the nosecone may be the cause. I hope the dealer figures it out - let us know! | ||
| Jprovo |
Matty- The whole ignition module is in the timing cone on the Blast, not just the pickup like the Tubers (and probably the XB's. It's too bad too, becuse it would probably help the ignition module last longer it it was free froom the heat and vibration of the engine. James | ||
| Tnthumper |
I hope they figure it out too. But in the meantime I got no bike. And after I got Pro-series exhaust on yesterday on top of intake and re-jetting carb.  | ||
| Matty |
Oops. My "like new" 2000 Blast just did the same thing. A quick test was to hit the module/pickup with a heatgun and see if the bike would stall once it heated up. Mine did! =) I need that fancy SE module anyways! | ||
| Tnthumper |
Dealer called me today told me bike was ready for pickup. Told me no parts were replaced. I just hope it's not like whrn ignition module went out before and I only made ot 3 miles from dealer. I will see what they say tomorrow and report back. If they say they could'nt find anything I'm gonna try what matty did and if it does it then I will take my heat gun with me when I take it back. | ||
| Tnthumper |
One more thing has anyone tried to modify(if possible) an ignition module to remote locate it? If you have removed the stock air box you have a lot of room to remote mount it. Was thinking about this today but have not looked at an ignition module off of bike. | ||
| Swampy |
The module has to stay where it is. There is a timing cup or wheel that is driven by the camshaft, and that triggers the ignition module. That little black box does alot! | ||
| Tnthumper |
Oh well. Maybe it's time for a redesign of the ignition module. | ||
| Ezblast |
Crossroads and others have used other ignitions - GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Tnthumper |
EZ, do you know which other ignitions? I'm still under warranty but if this becomes a regular prob on my bike I may either ask the dealer to try another ignition or I may do it myself. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I think you're trying to fix a problem that doesnt really exist (on a broad basis). Its under warranty, let them fix it. The amount of time and money you will probably spend changing it may surpass that of the other ignition modules that are available (Screamin Eagle & I believe there are others). If you're really going to hot rod the bike I could see going that route. They also sell kits to convert electronic ignition Harleys to points, that would probably work too! My point of view is that I've seen so many people take the attitude that if Harley makes it, it must be crap. So every time something goes bad (or they think it might), they start modifying. Then we hear the stories (especially with the Blast), I've done this, this & this and now I cant get the bike to run properly. We've found that a bone stock Blast is the most reliable. | ||
| Tnthumper |
Gearhead, I know but it's an intermittent problem and it was doing it before I did any mods. Got bike back from dealer today and they "could not duplicate". was told they checked spark plug(under 500 miles), air filter(pro-series under 500 miles), and the intake boot.All of which I could have told them was OK. I just want to be ablre to get it fixed and if I can get it to duplicate on my terms maybe then I can get them to fix it. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I'm sorry (perhaps I wasnt clear) what I meant was once you start deviating from stock to fix a problem, the reliability of the bike starts to suffer. So if you change the stock ignition to something else, you may have more problems. Unfortunately, you know you still have a problem because the dealer didnt do anything. Maybe someone can send you a known bad module (James,Swampy?) you can then swap that in and they'll have to change it. Or if you are willing to spend the money ($250appx) you can swap it for a Screaming Eagle module. | ||
| Tnthumper |
gearhead, no problem. It's just that when I worked on flightline I used to hate these intermittent problems. Bike runs like a top 95% of the time it's the times it's acting up that bugs me. Plus the fact it was doing it before I did any mods just makes it worse. And if one of those guys would be willing to send me a known bad module I would be more than willing to get Shipping money in mail ASAP. John | ||
| Swampy |
I will send it to you John. email me your address. | ||
| Tnthumper |
Swampy, Thanks, but let me ask you this first. I was just playing around and tapping lightly on module with screwdriver handle and bike shut down and would'nt restart til I tapped on it some more. Does this sound to you like a bad module? It sounds to me like something in the guts is coming loose. | ||
| Swampy |
I never tried tapping on mine, I did cool it down with water to get it to fire again. Mine was a heat issue. It ran poorly for a long, long time, and finally started to die on me. I would also look at the screws that hold the module in the nose cone, they are not magic screws maybe you have a bad ground? I think one of the module wires is a ground, I don't remember now and the manual is out in the garage. Also check the hole that the wires come out of the nose cone, it is sharp and could cut the wires if pulled too tight. I took and champered the opening and smoothed out the edge when I got the wires out. (Message edited by swampy on September 15, 2005) |
