| Author | Message | ||
     Koz5150 |
I was looking at the task of installing a new stator on my bike. I have seen them priced from $49.95 to over $120. Anything in particular I should be looking for? | ||
| Buelliedan |
Yes, You should get an Accell which has a lifetime warranty. I just had to replace one of mine under warranty. No questions asked it was replaced by Accell. Just keep your reeipt. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The Harley one is pretty pricey, and has not been the most reliable part of the bike, so I would not hesitate to go aftermarket. That being said, I went with the factory part, as it was in stock at my local dealer and all the aftermarket folks needed to order them. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Koz....are you SURE it's the stator? Make sure to do a current test on the voltage regulator (if you haven't already) | ||
| Newfie_buell |
The stator usually fails on the little metal tab that holds the wires to the engine case. The tab cuts through the wires and all goes to ground. I replaced mine with a Dennis Kirk one at the time. Still working good at this point. (Message edited by Newfie_Buell on August 30, 2005) | ||
| Newfie_buell |
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| Newfie_buell |
Don't forget the nut on either the end of the crank or mainshaft is LEFT HAND THREAD I can't remember which one and its in the manual. Impact gun spins it off real quick with no problems. (Message edited by Newfie_Buell on August 30, 2005) | ||
| Reepicheep |
We have seen plenty of stators fail on the actual stator as well. I wonder if they changed that plate? I seem to recall a "bend" in mine on my 2k Cyclone so there was no sharp edge on the wire. Or maybe I did that on one of my many trips in there and just forgot... | ||
| Blackbelt |
my 2002 x1 has the EXACT same plate as newfie's.... infact i just changed out my stator for that exact problem... was scary how similar the damage was.. swapped out for an Accel... but the wife threw away the receipt.. lets hope i don't need to ever swap it out... and yes an Impact wrench took those nutts off w/o any problems what so ever.. was pritty easy after i got the retaining ring off the clutch... | ||
| Reepicheep |
Also make sure you clean those nuts carefully and apply the correct lok-tite before putting them back on. More then one crank nut has backed off after a stator repair. | ||
| Tramp |
in response to your thread title, i'd have to say "no", being that i still have my factory stator from '95, and it works fine. | ||
| Koz5150 |
Well I tested my stator and it is good. Voltage regulator checked out also... I hope I don't have a wire bleeding somewhere, but I don't think I do. I went a few days without a problem, rode the bike 25 miles, parked it overnight and then couldn't start it. I hate electrical problems! | ||
| Tramp |
isn't it nice to actually TEST components instead of just changing them because of internet banter? How's your battery, and it's connections? how about that lossely-connected LT lead at the starter? remember the simplest test, Koz- disconn. your ground lead, then connect a VM between it and your ground, and check for discharge. if you see a volt or wto, that's bad. disconnect and reconnect components until you see the discharge drop to "0". when that's occured, you've disconnected, and thereby identified, the offending short/discharge. Keep it simple and test twice, replace once, when it comes to electric components. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
With all the "bling" on your bike, I wouldn't be suprised if you had a power bleed somewhere. Did you install anything new recently (besides the battery)? | ||
| Newfie_buell |
Wouldn't it be Bleedin Obvious to test the resistance across the leads before tearing it apart!!!! Of course it would | ||
| Tramp |
...unless, of course, one were deluded into e-hypochondriasis, the ghastly phenomenon whereby an individual reads, on web-md, all about , say, the symptoms of legionnaire's disease, and becomes convinced he/she is experiencing the same symptoms. or, of course, the individual who reads too many buell boards, and starts to feel his oil pump drive giving way, his belt struggling to keep it's last kevlar thread in one piece, and his stator giving it's death rattle... \clipart yes, newf, to some of us it would be, but I posted the advice because to some it simply is not{biggriney} | ||
| Al_lighton |
Based on all the failures I've seen, I now pot the wires back behind that plate with some RTV to prevent movement. It's easy to do, and I think it will minimize the metal fatigue failures where the stranded wires are attached to the solid windings. I figure it can't hurt, and probably will help. Al | ||
| Tramp |
I'm a huge fan of all of these rider-engineered upgrades, esp. those which utilize RTV, silicone dielectric grease and shrink tubing. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Ahh, yes..., the joys of shrink tubing. Love that stuff. | ||
| Admin |
Will soon be moving this topic to the "Knowledgte Vault - Electrical..." topic. Please in the future post all such technical topics to the applicable KV topic.  Thanks, BadWeB Custodians | ||
| Blake |
Done! Thanks for all your help in getting the ol' BadWeB organized. | ||
| Rokoneer |
I see that aftermarket stators are available either 'molded' or 'unmolded'. Which is preferable for an XB? And why? | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: Have a 97S3T ... Still running the "ORIGINAL STATOR" and "VOLTAGE REGULATOR" !!! My SECRET has been to adjust PRIMARY CHAIN to 5/8 to 3/4 inch on tight spot and install a NEW BATTERY every two years ... Plus tye wrap all wire so they do not get the WIGGLE TEST while riding ... Of course when you know of PRODUCT PROBLEMS or see ONE they must be corrected or you will have BIG PROBLEMS later as in BIG $$$ ... In BUELLing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on September 04, 2005) |
